SargeRX8

Sure did. My catch can was giving a tiny hiss, so I removed it. Also a little hiss from the hot pipe at the join to the cooler rubber thing. Fixed it also.

When it was tuned, it was a metal intake 3"(the point of the bend would have been somewhat less because I cut a moon out of it and bent it shut and welded it up) the top half was a 90 degree rubber connector to the AFM. The only thing we haven't tried is dropping the exhaust. I can build, hit and hold boost just the power figure possibly isn't what it should be. None the less this is why I need a new intake pipe, maybe I made it wrong. It is now running without a rubber bend and the car will detonate on higher boost which COULD indicate an increase in flow and timing needs to be pulled or fuel added. I am not going to get the car tuned until I get a new intake. If I move the AFM into the cooler piping, I throw out my tune completely but I can run a direct pipe with the returns and pod on the end making life easier. Problem is if that goes to the shit house, I will have hacked up cooler pipe and a mess under my bonnet. This also is putting effect on why I don't have a "proper" intake pipe yet.

Bahahaha. I don't think he was telling you to add mods, he was asking you to list your current mods.

That is the answer I want, but everyone is "oh you need to do this, its gonna cost more, oh this is in the way oh change this, oh i cant make it fit this oh i have no time" its all f**king around. EVERYTHING I done on my car I done my self because it is easy to source parts, the only part which has to be made to suit is the intake pipe. You buy something, you fit it on. Its a different story when it has to be made to fit because you need to find someone who can and will do it for a price you are happy with. Last time I got an intake pipe made, the car would stall every time I clutched in. Simple shit like air from the BOV return hitting the afm throwing shit out is what people miss. I made my intake pipe with a 3" bend and all the returns as close to the turbo and angled right. Why it doesn't make power and why its a restriction, I have no idea.

I got quoted 400 from a shop to make it. I then got quoted $80 from another but they were too busy to handle small jobs. I then got quoted $120 from another shop, then I gave him the car to measure and make it and he dicked me around saying this and that was in the way, I cant do it because of this etc. So I ended up making one my self and it was shit. Until your f**ken sure what you're going to do and how you are going to set everything up, why the f**k would you outlay such money on something which has the potential to change? I was running an atmo catch can. I removed it. Tao suggests running the Z32 in the cooler pipe. What if I done the same? Going to go hack up a freshly made $200 pipe after being f**ked around by most places in my area trying to get one made the first time? I'm not bitching and I wasn't f**ken whinging. I simply stated my car was not making the power because of the intake. Did I, in any point, in any of my f**ken posts, start talking shit at people because my car wasn't making power? I complemented the latter tuner of my car, I complimented Tao on the turbo etc. No where did I accuse, bitch or whine about the intake pipe. Matter of the fact is it IS the biggest issue when setting up a new turbo. No car will be the same. There is no off the shelf option like a dump, or a cat. You need to find someone who will measure it up, make it right and make it fit and I haven't found anyone yet. f**k you.

My car had similar issues, made little to no more power no matter what boost we threw at it. Ive more than likely got an intake restriction with my shitty intake pipe.

Ive believe in my case its an intake restriction. I started getting worried that I might have a tired old motor but a comp test gave good results(155 to 160 across the board). Ive got all the supporting mods I don't suspect any intake leaks. I can never be sure if I do or do not have a manifold leak because I have never checked but if I did I am sure I would know about it. The biggest bitch is the intake pipe.

I'm in the inner west, around Parramatta area. I can't see any obvious bends but maybe I am looking at the wrong sides... I'm(obviously) looking at the sides of the car which HAVE the extra camber. I can't see anything that looks damaged.

My car makes boost but also lacking alot of power with the ss2. Tao made 300rwkw on 20, I make 246 on 20. I've got a fat hks, massive 5 inch cat and a jjr dump. We think the intake side is the restriction buy only time will tell, I need an intake pipe, I'm waiting for the units tao is working on. I also run very similar if not a tiny bit more timing than tao.

^ Yes but surely there will be someone here who can recommend a place in Sydney rather than me having to call up insurance companies and ask. A better option for me would be to call a big name tuner and ask who they use to do their chassis and suspension work, but it is always best to receive first hand recommendations off people who have used these types of services with cars like ours.

Where do I go in Sydney? People said pedders is shit, people say bob jane(they done the work) is shit, all other places I know are mechanics and tuners who do not have the equipment to do precise suspension work... I need to either fix bushes or get adjustable... things to allow them to make things right...

Alot of the roads in my area, when driving in the left lane or single lane road, tend to pull slightly to the left. There are times in my old skyline where I can feel the road actually pull my tires to the left. No joke if you actually drive up woodville road near granville(heading to Parramatta) in the left lane just near the town houses and Sound master, the road WILL pull your car to the left if you do not hold the steering. My LCA isn't bent but I had recently replaced that whole hub as the bearing in the hub was worn and noisy. I don't know how much effect this could/would have but like I said above, the only symptoms I am getting is wear on my tires. if it wasn't for that(and this report) I would have no idea how out of whack things are(or aren't).

Heat from the engine will heat up the electronics and when electronics heat up, they run inefficiently, especially if worn or failing. Try a new ignitor.

Ive got passenger side guard and passenger side headlight, both in Sydney but the panel is sonic silver. The headlight has been tinted , not spray paint but the tint film, can be removed and properly restored to near perfect clarity. Ive also got a series 2 radiator, was not blocked and coolant came out very clean. Ive got an aftermarket fiberglass front bar. Ill give you the radiator, headlight and the guard for $250. PM me if you're interested. If you want the front bar ill give you the lot for $300. Individual prices ill give you the head light for $120, radiator $50, guard for $70, front bar for $100. Ive sent you a PM containing this shit just incase you don't check back here.

Just had a look at the subframe on the rear and there is evidence its been in some sort of a kerb side incident... The damage is on the passenger side, have a look at the attached picture. It was done at bob jane. The only adjustable part Ive got is the castor rods up front. I know this picture is not the cause of the figures but I believe it is good grounds to say the car was involved in some sort of incident. Ive got another subframe which I can put in if need be. From the figures above though, it looks like the right hand side(driver side?) Is far far worse than the side of impact. Actually, the side of impact is pretty good considering. The wear on the inside of the rear driver side tyre is MUCH worse than the passenger side(which is actually pretty even, not much worse on the inside). Will changing the subframe and any other bushes necessary fix this issue? Then again I had no idea anything was wrong until I read this piece of paper lol. All our cars have shitty tyre wear and we just change them when necessary but because this is my car I am willing to help remedy this premature wear on tyres. I am getting frontal wear, mainly inside passenger side. Wheels aren't big(17/40 up front 17/45 rear) and the car doesn't sit very low at all. If there was a way I could fix and measure this shit at home, I would sit there all day to fix it but damn those machines look like they are doing some precise work...

I just had the car aligned and what not, trying to cure some of the inner wear on my tyres. Anyhow, after these procedures, the guys give you the report which shows you the values of what ever x y z are. Ive highlighted some things in the pic below. Some of them show a difference between left and right and some just a huge difference to what their databank suggests. Is there anything of concern here? Look at the camber how different it is on both sides, front and back. What could be causing it to sit like this. If anyone has any input that would be great.

Back pressure doesn't create boost, it restricts it.

I've got one and if you're in sydney I'll swap with cash your way.

There is about an inch of space, maybe a little less, between my dump (jjr) and that rubber hose. I'd wrap the dump in heat wrap. My old car had a wrapped dump and it really did make a difference to cabin temps.

Yeah I know, but what I am saying is just by opening the turbo water line, I had most of the water coming out. You can maybe even get a hose into the water port on the turbo and flush the system that way. As long as you can get into the water system and fit a hose there, you can flush it.

I thought it had more, larger impellors. Maybe I am confusing it with some other waterpump I saw when choosing what to get.

The impellor design of the Nismo should flow more water with the same effort but how much effect that would have on cooling is probably jack shit. Cooling the water is all in the radiator. Get a triple core.

I bought an almost stock(exhaust, cooler, suspension) series 2 for 7k. Just to give you an example. I also previously bought a modded gtst for 11k. That is the difference. If its a clean non turbo you can get about 4 - 6k for it. About 2k ontop you got a stock gtst, about 2 k further you should have 240rwkw. About 2k extra maybe a fully built motor... for under 14k.

When I changed my turbo, I lost my coolant. It took about 7l to full up so I'm guessing most of my block was drained. All I disconnected was the water line from the turbo.

I don't know what it means but my car according to my profec b spec 2 sits at -90 on idle. Anything below 85(or above, how you look at it) generally means I popped off a vacuum line.