SargeRX8

I fixed my lean pop today, required a touch up in some cells in the tune. If you are running after market ECU, injectors and what not then it is very likely you will suffer from lean pop. Its common on Skylines and they require a little more fuel then stoich to run smooth.

I'm using 1.08 correction and it fixed the popping. The injector settings are annoying.

I buckle as soon as I hear the first Wapapa let alone 5 seconds. This is the reason I have raised my rpm to 7300. I can still push to 7000 and not worry about hitting the limiter. My turbo didn't fall off. That said I have seen 7500rpm an odd amount of times... Once.

As others are saying, if you can tighten the preload. If you made 30psi clearly you do not have a leak. If you have a leak which only gives way at 22psi, it will definitely give way at 30psi very quickly. Dude get a different actuator and be done with it. I am almost CERTAIN it is the actuator spring.

I hope I don't get into shit for this but I'm bumping this up because there is some awesome content here and rather than start a new thread, I think people should share and ask here. Anyhow I was just fiddling with my car which was suffering from lean pop. To get around this I just adjust my correction(it was around 0.98) to about 1.08 to 1.1. This got rid of my lean popping but I don't know if the lean pop is a sign of an issue or just due to the fact I am running Nismo 740cc injectors... Further that, I would like to tweak some little things with my car before I go to get it tuned properly, just so I can learn some new things on the way. My car suffers from burble and spluttering on VERY light throttle regardless of gear. Chap above said to add more timing but as it stands I am currently not able to do any driving while logging thanks to the battery on my laptop being a bitch and not working so I need to always be near a power point. What cells are these which are often related to the cruising with tiny throttle?

Have you tried a different actuator yet? Simple test if you like, its a stupid one, a dangerous one but at least you will know where you stand. Disconnect the air feed to the actuator and block the hose. Run the car and CAREFULLY using your foot on the accelerator to control boost and see what happens. This is dangerous stuff as the car will boost as much as the turbo can so it is all up to you to control the boost with your foot. If you see boost rise to 22psi slowly back your foot off and see if you can maintain 22psi. If it keeps rising back off. Your boost graph shows fall off as soon as you hit 22psi so in theory if there is a boost leak, the moment you hit 22psi will create enough pressure to give you this big drop you are having. I think it might be safe to say that if your car powers past 22psi of boost, say you hit 25psi for example, at 4krpm, then I would say you don't have a leak. More pressure will create a drop in boost if there is a hole somewhere. If you find your self having to mash the accelerator heaps to control the boost then you may have a boost leak. Seriously though, boost leaks.... You should hear the damn thing. XR6 will out do you at the lights with a turbo which comes on at 3600rpm, its what happens after that that really matters lol. I don't like continuously feeding air to the intake when doing a pressure test. Does your pressure tester have a gauge attached to it? Mine was a home made piece, no gauge but there was no need. As soon as I put air in, I heard my leaks, fixed them up and bam no more leaks. IF you don't hear the leak, its more likely than not that DON'T HAVE A LEAK.

500rpm drop is fair big... If it was your gearbox it would go up rather than down... Lean popping will cause your engines rpm to splutter around. If you have a big exhaust, hold the rpm with the window shut and you should hear the thud of the lean pop. My car is like. pop..........pop.....pop pop pop etc and revs bounce around and the car will jitter. Misfire sounds like a machine gun, kind of like lean pop but VERY rapid. Only way is by sound and by AFR plots. This is misfire

This is not a thread asking should I or shouldn't I. What is bad or what is good. I just want to ask people at which point on the hot side do they fit the AFM? Is the best location the straight run between the front of the engine and the back of the engine(where your cooler pipe meets the TB pipe work). Will running a vented catch can remove any risk of oil contamination(or a properly sealed and baffled unit). I am sick of these stalling issues and fiddling with intake pipes so I am going to put this in my cooler pipe and be done with it. Couple of other things I need to ask is can the stock BOV be used in its standard location as it is still sitting before the AFM. I have read that you need to put the AFM closer to the TB than the BOV... How much modifications are required to the tune? Is it across the board of all maps or just scaling the AFM to suit? Will removing the BOV from the equation all together be a bad idea? If anyone here has pictures of their unit fitted into their car like this, do share. Also if you run the BOV in the standard location, where do you plumb it back? I am not doing this for noise, I am doing this to give me more freedom in the intake side of my turbo and eliminate the stalling issues when coming off load. I run a power FC ECU on an Rb25DET series 2 motor.

I removed my catch can because it never had oil in it after a year, and when performing an intake pressure test, the catch can was a leak in my intake (the level reader thing). No oil in my intake so at least I know my engine isn't spluttering oil all over the head.

I outlayed big money for my tune. Close to 1k. Waste of money. Pre tune, I specifically asked the tuner to install my new injectors and check my fuel system for flow, pressure etc. Car was tuned with poor flow and they just compensated for that by adjusting my FPR to raise the pressure. Money doesn't mean shit, you need an experienced tuner who isn't going to take your money and tune with their eyes closed. Obvious signs and symptoms should give any tuner reason to stop before they proceed and take your money. In all honesty, learn the basics, data log and tune your self. Run it as safe as you like and when you are happy with the feel be done with it. Pull timing, adjust your AFR's then give it some timing across the loads. I think its harder to tune cruising and low down then it is to tune for power.

When you come off throttle and in gear the car should just hummm to a lower speed then it will burble when the rpm is too low for the gear. My car was running perfectly during cruise, now it lean pops its arse off ONLY during cruising. Full throttle, medium throttle etc is fine. Touching the throttle lightly to maintain a steady cruise speed sees lean popping.

Mine has red line set to 7400. I can hit 7400 before I get the usual WAAPAH PAH PAH sound but I did not raise my RPM red line to hit a higher limit, moreso create a safe barrier from the harsh cut the ECU gives(PFC). That Simon chap is doing what, close to 8krpm on his stock internal motor and stock box lol. At that rpm the harmonics are out, shit is worn, shit might be lacking tight tollernaces or something and then bam. Think of it like this, as the theory goes, what ever can go wrong will go wrong. You want to rev high and drift, buy a rotor. Stock rotors can hold red line for a very long time...

You sure its misfire and not lean pop? They kind of sound and feel the same... Can't imagine misfire under low load and no miss under wot...

Most people turn off their o2 sensor if they can. Mine is off and I'll be fitting my wideband in the stock bung. I've read more people having no issues then people having issues, on street cars. If you do high rpm driving (track, drifting, hill climbs) then move it away from the turbine.

Its like at work yesterday, I was trying to push a 300kg trolley and with the shoes I was wearing and the torque I was pushing against the trolley, something had to give and I slipped. If I had shoes with better rubber, I could have easily pushed the trolley. Torque is a measurement of force required to move an object or how much force something can create. Had that trolley been moving and I was running full force into it, the momentum of the trolley will help me push it and the load won't be so sudden. I recall reading here some mechanic who wears in clutches by doing 2nd gear dumps. Retard.

f**king shit f**k, my theory just got thrown out the window. Power FC showed 24C, car started and then bogged down then started fine. The car was doing this when it was stock as a rock and still doing this with all mods(new injectors, turbo, ecu, afm, fuel pump etc).

I can leave the car off for 3 days and start it up just fine if the temp is above 17c. Sometimes it can cool quickly, 3 hours to below 17c and then it wont start first time which leads me to believe it isn't leaking injectors(brand new nismo 740cc's with new o rings and seals etc). Its a brand new fuel pump in there, a 040. I'm going to whack in a new temp sensor when I get my hands on it see what happens.

Why not open your bleeder valve while the engine is cold and running and let the air bleed out? Physics has it the air will rise to the highest point, which I think is the bleeder. There is also another technique which involves cutting the bottom off a coke bottle and filling it with coolant and placing it into the radiator and sealing it and leaving the bleeder open. Gravity will help pull the water in and the air should bubble out. Do this while running your heater because if there is air in the heater core and you don't have it all on it won't come out. Heater on max, open bleeder and let engine warm til water starts pissing out. You can tell when you have air coming out and then water pissing out. Be f**king careful. IF there is alot of air in there and it gets into the head you can warp the thing(worst case). Ive also heard, in cars in general, when you overheat it can often cause the headgasket to fail. Maybe you had air in there and now its heated its fried your gasket hence your failed wet starts in the morning. Compression test up in this bitch. If you get two low readings between two neighbouring cylinders, more than likely a blown gasket.

I had an old thread but I have NO idea where its gone. Anyway I have found the definitive cause to my problem but yet to find a solution. When I go to start the car early mornings or late nights, it sometimes starts and sometimes doesn't. But I can now safely say that the car will ONLY not start if the temperature reading(water temp) on my pfc handcontroller is at 17C or below. 18C it will start. 17c, start, bog down and die then start fine second time. 16C same as 17c and so on. 18c, 19c, 20c the car is fine. What the f**k could it be? Nothing in my tune is set to any type of correction at 17c... I have no vacuum leaks as I done an intake pressure test and its all tight and sealed. The main things I read are cold start valve, water temp sensor and vac leaks. I rule out vac leaks. I have no idea where the cold start valve is on the R33(Ive cleaned the AAC, didn't do squat). Water temp sensor, there are two Ive heard, I don't know which one to change. Water temp sensor always shows 3.4~ give or take .2, .3 when the car is on ignition so I think its still working but I can't say for sure. The car takes 24degrees of timing to start. I have noticed on my old tune it took 42 degrees of timing to start(from a cold start to get the car to idle, pfc showed 42 degrees max now its 24). Does this have any effect?

I couldn't suggest running without a filter. I had a 1mm gap between the gasket in my apexi filter and z32 and enough shit got in to damage the turbo fins. Silly idea. At least put a stocking over the box snuggly so at least you know some shit wont go in.

Afm might fix something, it might be f**ked. Coils won't do shit as you aren't misfiring.

Plumb those valves back, problem solved. Its stalling thanks to being over fuelled. Power fc doesn't like atmo venting.

Carbotic 5 puk button clutch. Shudders like shit in reverse but grips fine with room for 550nm at the wheels. $380.

because there are more people who have issues with them. how do you know they don't have fuel cut defenders or piggy back ecu's? .8 bar is what, 12psi? .9 is close to 14psi. on stock turbo, on stock tune. its called rich and retard. read about it. isn't it a surprise that it only happens on high boost?

Lol low km on 16 year old cars. My 33 has 86xxxkm on it. How much of that you believe its up to you. Buy a car based on condition not the odo n shit. its not too hard to get a stock gtr to 260awkw... I like my cars with the bare minimal mods, exhaust, suspension, cooler. That 32 might sound tempting but its a half track car, how much abuse has it seen and how sound is the motor? my car was stock as a rock. 5k later I'm around 280rwkw and I know the car inside out.