SargeRX8

And that will tell me if I have any intake leaks, be it before or after the turbo?

Tell me what I need and how to do it and I would do it.

Not really. When I got the car back from Jez, it was perfect. No lean popping, no stalling, no nothing. I removed a piece of rubber on my intake pipe which may or may not have been the cause of my problem so I put it back and it had no effect. There was NOTHING changed on the car. Breaking your arm is obvious, but what if you are complaining of abdominal pains and you go to the doctor and explain your symptoms. They aren't going to rush into anything. Its a matter of asking questions and performing many tests to see the cause. Not many people want to get cut open, pay to have an appendix removed only to find out that you had eaten something bad and needed it to pass. I'm getting splitfires, but they aren't going to fix my problem. There is no issue with huge load on the engine, so I doubt my coils are the issue. Ive used the old intake pipe, and it had no effect but I am making a new larger piece. Jez did what I would say a full power tune. We still need to tune the car. I am hoping that with the installation of the splitfires that I can run a larger gap without a miss. I have listened to all the input here. I actually got to thinking that if the fuel was heating enough that it could cause some issues and I can't be thankful enough for the help you and others have given but at the end of the day, these cars cost money which is why I would like to know if fixing something is going to be the solution, not just a waste of money. I changed the fuel pump, didn't need to. I changed the fuel filter, didn't need to. I changed the coils, didn't help. I reverted the intake pipe, didn't help. Splitfires will cost me the better half of $500. A full tune from a tune house will cost around $500. Maybe a tune will fix the problem but the fact that the only change between the tune and now was the intake pipe, would lead me to believe that something may be failing. The fact that it is only occurring under load, too, is a sign that something could be giving way.

Hey guys, The next thing to check in my car to get rid of the issues I am having is the CAS as it was suggested that symptoms my car is showing could be pointed to a failing CAS. Does anyone here have a timing light I can use to check my base timing and a CAS I can test out? The car is an RB25DET Series 2 R33. PM me! I'm near Parramatta.

f**k me they are expensive.... The rebuild option sounds best really, but I need to get a timing light onto it. When I initially got the car tuned, it was set for 15 base timing. If there is a CAS issue then I am guessing this may be thrown out a little... And I just tried my Datalogit again, the freezing controller only occurs when I start logging on the FC Edit software then goes back to normal when I stop logging. Its still not showing the max values in the monitor page.

How much is a new piece from Nissan? Also what the f**k, I tried to access the Sensor menu in my handcontroller connected to the FC box and the hand controller stopped responding. I pulled out the FC box and then the hand controller straight to the ECU and it works fine.

Ill get a timing light on this thing then, most of the shit you're saying are the symptoms I'm having. They kind of just started to happen too. I'm fiddling with FC Edit on the laptop and the car and when I open the monitor window, its not showing anything in the "basic" and "max" boxes and not detecting any of the sensors... Am I doing something wrong? They are detected just fine by the hand controller.

You rarely see MX5's in my area(parramatta), its mainly towards the city around lane cove areas. Weird people live there.

I suspected a failing CAS but it always seems to be right, when the car is warm it sits perfect on 15degree on the power fc... Also noticed today the car didn't want to start on me. The first crank, it started hit 500rpm then flopped on me. Started the second time. This also happened yesterday, when the engine is cold. The new intake pipe I am making is both longer and has another bend in it to help prevent reversion. The current one has only one bend in it. I was thinking of putting it through the old cooler pipe and putting the filter underneath but I'd then need to work on some deflection plate as I don't want water getting in anywhere. My old car used to lean pop all the time and I really thought it was normal, almost every modded tuner car Ive heard actually does lean pop. When I got it back from Jez though, it was perfect across the board. The turbo wheel damage is very minor. I showed it to Tao and he suggested only if it is affecting performance I can send it back to have 1mm shaved off the wheel. There is no problem at all with the power the car is making. The only issues are the lean popping and the stalling which I think is gone. I payed $800 for a full tune, when Jez got it the car was running rich rich on idle and lean popping worse than it is now. The lean popping was non existant when my yellow jackets were in there, then it started randomly until last week my coils failed and that is the reason I am running the standard units as we speak. I get no misfire under full boost all the way to red line. I am getting a brand new set of coils for the car, either replacement of yellow jackets under warranty or going to splitfires. I think Jez done a really good tune. They went all the way from the tiny cells with big load(2nd gear starts on the dyno etc). Each step of the way, ironing out any creases in AFR to reduce the lean popping and also the richness of the tune. All tune work was done on the dyno. I just tried your fuel test again. The car was doing the lean popping when holding 2krpm so when my fuel warning light came on, I filled a full tank of fuel then immediately started the car and help 2krpm only to hear it lean popping still. The fuel hose was cold so I think that eliminates the fuel temperature. If I knew where to start, or what to do, I would hook up my FC Edit and fiddle with the idle revs. I'm guessing idle is literally no load so if I just add a little more fuel in the idle cells it may fix the issue.... But this startup bogging has be thinking it may well and truely be the CAS but until I get more symptoms, I can't say it is and as it stands I don't have the money to get another piece.

seems to be, looks like the stalling has stopped. I also get some surging on light throttle Hey man, lets start lol. I use NGK BCP7RES gapped to .8mm. As of about a week ago I am now running standard coil packs, these do not misfire at all even on 20psi but they are going to be swapped out. The old coils were yellowjackets. There was no issue with spark during the tuneup. Always ran .8mm gap. Advan performance done the tune, Jez modded the tune to suit bigger boost and also tidy up the tune. The old intake pipe would have been about 4 maybe 5" longer as it had a rubber 90 degree bend on the end to the z32. The old fuel pump was a GTR fuel pump. It was not faulty. I thought it was so I swapped it with a Bosch 040 which did not create or eliminate any problems. Installation was done by my self, the pump is in the exact standard location and install should be fine. The main thing which makes this one hard is that the lean popping on free revving does NOT happen until the car is warm. Yesterday I drove home from work at midnight, got to about 66C on the water temp gauge on pfc and it was NOT lean popping. It would rev and hold perfectly.

Is that smurf blood shit like a green blue color? My car had that stuff in it. Ill try this amsoil stuff next with the nulon additive!

I bought one last year from Nissan. It had one...

I thought they came as an option as I have seen old people driving them with the cages lol.

Japan just doesn't give a shit how they handle these cars lol. I too was surprised to hear how they get handled lol. In relation to this thread, I think every skyline I've seen has has rooted sills. I really didn't think this would impact a pink slip. I know a few places around Guildford who will pass you. Pm me if needed.

I am. 20psi I should have 300 but sitting on 250ish. apart from little small issues probably not related to the turbo or power it self, its great. Just seems like a fussy turbo so to speak as everything needs to be pretty perfect on the intake and exhaust side to get the desired results. I recommend over any other turbo for a stock motor. If, though, response is not a concern, get a kando.

Connect it up to your car, do the usual procedure to get everything up and running then file and save as PM me if you get it, I can send you my tune too if you to have a squiz at.

I had no issues fiddling with it on windows 7.

Had a look through the Nissan ones. They seem to run some pretty big timing throughout and some other interesting settings. But I want to see more realistic figures, with our fuels and local mods etc. It doesn't tell me what that tune is for, it just says RB25DET but I don't know if that is a stock tune as the timing seems fair high for a stock tune. Done and done!

13/f/nigeria Just abit of banter lol. To be honest the MX5 hard top was my favourite car back in the days(when I was younger, used it in NFS U and NFS U2). Loved it to bits, small, zippy and the hard top looked mint. What ruined it for me was being 6'1" and the general image of the car and the people who buy them. They are great cars, just driven by TOO many old people and TOO many gay looking men. I dare anyone when they are on low fuel to put their hand in the fuel tank and touch the sides of the tank. Sounds gay but its slimy as f**k in there. Both my skylines were the same. Really feels like that damn thing needs to be cleaned lol. I wouldn't be concerned so much about sucking up shit more so my concern would be something foreign entering the tank and causing fuel contamination... I sealed up my fuel filler thing because it was leaking. I used Permatex gasket stuff which is mean to be suitable for fuel etc. Found the shit running and just being shit from the petrol fumes. f**king waste of shit.

Itsa pain in the ass fitting a single 040 into the standard location in the gtst tank. If you know your way internally in the tank and van sit the pumps in a position they can reach fuel, you solid be fine in clamping them together and running then into a y as said above, but that depends how you drive the car and how full you keep the tank. You still risk one or both pumps sucking up air. Maybe you can get two smaller pumps. Your issue is space. f**k typing on the phone is sloppy

Hey all, If anyone here is able to upload or email me their FC Edit tunes, that would be great. I am not going to try use them, or sell them etc I just got the FC Edit software and just looking at different tunes and what not. I tried to compare the FC Edit screen dump of ignition timing to the Nistune one, all backwards and there aren't as many cells in the Nistune so its not easy determining where what what sits.

Ill try flip it around when I get the pops on idle. Its got both mesh things intact and it has the flow arrow facing the turbo.

Can't edit the above post anymore but here are pictures of the intake pipe OFF the car. You can see the outside and the inside of the pipe. My new design pipe has another bend just at the turbo with a 2 - 3" leg which will be the mounting point for my return and breather lines. It will have 2 maybe 3 bends in it. The black shit is that silka sikka or what ever its called, that black glue shit. We put it over the weld bead just incase there was an air pocket somewhere.You can also see that the intake pipe is not exactly 3" on the bend. We sliced out a moon piece then bent the pipe shit and welded it up.

One guy who drives it on the track, a thousand gay ones on the street.