SargeRX8

You have a PM.

Can I call shotgun on the Z32 afm pending mine is failing? Will know by next weekend.

Lol and you are still driving it with a blown gasket? You risk overhearing, contaminating the oil and destroying your bottom end, loss of power. A blown gasket could make you lose boost. When the cylinder fires, the pressure exerted from the explosion is lost through the gasket leak acting like an indirect wastegate. Fix that damn head gasket. Just to confirm you have a blown gasket do a compression test. One, maybe two cylinders will have little to no compression.

Are these equal to the bcp7res plugs? I want to give them a go as I heard they are better than regular plugs. I'll check my shop if they stock then. Repco is the biggest rip off. They want more than 5 dollars per bcp7res. I get 6 for 21

well no, the coil packs were my latest problem but I'm still having issues with strapping and idle and cruise conditions... I spoke with performance wise and the highest failure rate is only with series 2 coils. Apparently the coils might have an issue with the dwell time of the series 2...

So you are saying you can use the wideband and ecu to dynamically control afrs? Surely something my power fc can't do lol. I might pick up a innovative unit. Shop near my place has them plus 12 months warranty

It looks like you just hacked up the original then patched it up... You are asking a fair bit for it. I reckon if you drop the price you will have alot of people with an FMIC and the stock box who don't have the snorkel. $150 can get you a airbox with snorkel.

Still able to find them but they cost almost double the price of the AEM. I want to get one of these for my car, get rid of the narrowband and put this in its place. My ECU isn't using it so it would be just for me to monitor the ratios.

I think the 3582R is too big for a 2.5L motor. I had one and I sold it. Some people run them and make crazy power with them but you need to run in excess of 24psi through the motor. The question is if your motor is unopened, you probably wouldn't want to push a 3582R through it. I then got a 3071, has slightly better response than the 76 but also makes nice power(should get 280rwkw fairly easily). I then ditched the 3071 because to make the garret fit needs more money and more work and to run it at its peak needs a whole new setup(probably best with a new mani, external gate setup). I ended up going with a hypergear which has brilliant response, delivers more torque than the garret 3071 and also more power for the same boost. This ant it also bolts straight onto my existing bellmouth dump, no spacers etc, no external gate, stock manifold is fine. Consider the hypergear turbo. My full low boost comes on at about 3400rpm and high boost just a tad before 3600rpm. If you had a 3582 expect to wait 4krpm. Believe me when I tell you, you do NOT like the feeling of turbo lag. There have been the times where even this turbo feels laggy. I try to get into traffic, see a car coming from behind, floor it in 2nd and it really does feel like you are waiting forever before it comes on haha.

That certainly sounds like oil. Too much oil isn't a good thing. This could affect pressure and cause oil to seap out of places it shouldn't be. The problem was not with the sparks by the sound of it, but a deeper problem CAUSING the sparks to fail. If he puts another set in now, sure it will work, but for how much longer? I had brand new plugs in my car. 1 week later, couldn't get it to idle. New plugs went in, 1 week later same shit. I was running too rich, the plugs were fouling pretty quickly(10.1 on idle lol). Fixed my fueling issue, plugs are now fine. Take these plugs out, do they have oil on them? A cheat way to get the excess oil out of the car to lower the amount is to take the filter off, empty the oil, cycle the engine, check level and repeat if necessary. You get about 50 - 200ml every time depending on filter size. Wet fuel on plugs looks and feels very different to what he describes, and I know this! It evaporates pretty quickly when out of the cylinder but its just a watery black liquid.

Ill do this, sounds like a mint idea too. I'm using Nitto tape, good shit but under that heat it does dry up pretty quickly. Don't get me wrong, they work. They work awesome, it just seems that maybe the heat in a modded engine kills them early. Maybe 19psi is too much for them. Could be many reasons but I can tell you the warranty and service behind them(from performance wise) is second to none. Spoke with him today and he offered me a full refund or replacement set. Unfortunately I think I am going to take the refund then invest in a set of spitfires. Looks like the stock piece is holding pretty well so far too. 15psi on the drive home no miss.

Is it worth getting rid of a pod to run a standard box? I've got the ss2 turbo and when stao tested the turbo back to back with a pod and stock box, there was a difference. Also the fact that I will need a very strict metal intake pipe to line up to the stock box...

Coil packs failed on me. Stock ones are back in there. Damn yellow jackets, lets hope they can get replaced under warranty. Second set to fail on me I haven't tested if this fixed my stalling or lean popping issue but it seems everything came at once so lets try iron them out.

Sigh, on high boost drive today(first drive after cleaning the AAC valve) the car hit 107 knock on the PFC. Now its misfiring its arse off.

I has an oscilloscope which I found years ago lol it's been binned though. I might invest in some power fc software. I am fairly certain it can log afm signal against time and rpm. I've got a multimeter but the fluctuation might be too quick I won't see it. With the power fc I can reset the max readings the second I back off the throttle and then check them again. Damn it would be sweet if I could get some power fc data logger on my phone lol. OdbII has it and you can use bluetooth too dammit lol.

Sounds good man, you will know here and I'll probably sms you if I've fixed it otherwise shoot me an sms when your down I can bring my car up.

Ill probably give the idea a miss as I really cbf cleaning that shit off, and it smells weird lol. I was thinking of something. If I built a small circuit consisting of a few LED's ranging from red to yellow to green which will receive the AFM voltage signal as the input and work in such a way that when the volts are low the lights are red and when the volts and air rises the lights will go to yellow and green, could I use this as a clear display for me to monitor when I am getting effects of reversion to determine if its an issue? I don't think it will take long to make and I should have all the parts I need. I can just keep my eye on my power fc hand controller afm voltage and see what happens. My idea is this. When you clutch in the flow against the afm should be nothing really and read about what I think its .3v or .5v on idle. What I can do is watch my lights(or hand controller) for retarded random fluctuations when the throttle is closed which should tell me if air is hitting the afm. If I don't see any air hitting the AFM and the voltage is stable until the stall point then I guess I can rule out reversion as being the issue here and start looking deeper into a vacuum leak. Just tested this out quickly with the car off. I blew compressed air through my recirc pipe and read 1600mv. Not a good figure but also not something to base anything on considering the car was off, turbo not spinning and no vacuum from the engine.

http://www.youtube.c...h?v=1jOZjTTWtOI Fast forward to 2:50. This is my car, apexi pod and stock BOV with sleeved standard rubber pipe. Have you seen any of the videos or read any forums of US cars. They absolutely hate japanese sports cars. No matter what the car is, its always a ricer to them as they love their muscle cars. Just watch videos of organised street racers of JDM cars vs muscle cars and the shit the drivers often cop. Ive seen a lot of videos over the past years. Its alot worse than driving here. I'm not saying their JDM cars are shit, but from what I recall, skylines are not allowed on the streets of america so they are often hated against. Reason they aren't allowed on the street is due to their performance and likeability which will throw people from paying america for more fat ugly american muscle cars. They don't look down on skyline drivers, there are no skyline drivers there. They look down on JDM drivers. Simple as that. ANY video you see of any JDM car, no matter how fast it is, how stock it is, how what ever it is, the comments from other americans will always read "piece of shit japanese ricer shit' and the alike. At least down here people admire our cars. I remember the first time I went to a skyline meet. It was across the road from my place at the park. I'm not sure if it was SAU but there were obviously heaps of skylines there, a porsche and some other cars. Most had BOV's on them. More often than not when I hear a skyline or JDM car pass me, or go past my house, the bird whistle often follows. Its much more frequent with the evo drivers. I'm considering upgrading to a MAP based ECU in the future purely to make these issues a thing of the past. Damn power FC should have some adapter things I can hook up to it.

If you drive it normally, the clutch will hold. A good quality clutch has no problem holding power, its just when you try to do a massive fully hektik skid and you drop the clutch on a big rpm and expect it to hold... My old car was around 230rwkw and it had an exedy heavy duty in it. Never slipped once. I was even using the standard Nissan clutch cover. So light on the pedal, yet so much grab.

Judging by that then it would be safe to assume my cold start valve is fine as the car is perfect when its cold/warming up. It is only once the car IS warm it plays up. I cleaned up my AAC before, was filthy as shit. Lets hope later when I drive it, she goes fine. I checked everything over and over, I can't see any split or cracked hoses anywhere. I read on the net that you can spray carby cleaner directly onto vacuum lines n shit when the motor is running and if the engine makes a odd sound when you spray on a certain spot, its a good indication there is a hole or leak there. Is this safe to try on a turbo car?

Could be a vacuum leak. My car is doing something very similar and strange. Until it is warmed up its fine. Once its warmed, it lean pops a little and stalls when clutching in after boost. But it drives perfectly fine apart from that. Check all the little thin black hoses are plugged in nicely and don't look all dry and cracked.

Get shift buzzer, like in the RX8.

Shit oil filter? Shit fuel filter? Sounds like there could even be something not tightened. I really don't think you should see oil anywhere... 08 model.... Should have warranty, shouldn't it? Take the dip stick out and see if little droplets of oil spit out of it when the engine is running. Maybe even bad oil type, too thick or too thin for the motor...

Let me understand then what exactly is happening on throttle off. When you come off boost and shut the throttle the air will revirb back and flow through the recirc pipe back into the turbo and stay in the system. Correct? Ok now lets say, just for simple example, the car measured 10 litres of air coming in and allowed 200ml of fuel to be added for this air. The engine does its cycle on boost, burns 8 litres of air and 100ml of fuel. You back off the throttle and the plate shuts with this 2 litres of air still in the intake before the throttle and 100ml of fuel for the counted air. To prevent the car from stalling is this where the AAC valve kicks in? Since the throttle is closed you are going to need to let this air come in to burn this fuel to keep the engine on and from stalling. My car for the last week has been stalling its nut when I come off boost and let the revs drop. I am running a full recirc system. What is the cause of this stalling state? Ive cleaned the AAC but have not taken it for a drive yet. Am I right when I am saying the engine is using the AAC to let in this air to burn off this fuel? When the throttle is shut, obviously air isnt going to get in there but if there is fuel in the piston its going to need air to burn... Why do people drive motor bikes with exhausts so loud they can be heard kilometers away? Why do people run screamer pipes? Why do people run straight pipe exhaust? Why do people run titanium exhausts? Its their car. If you run a pod filter, most people are immediately going to say that you have a vented bov because the sound which comes through the BOV, so already you are a dickhead. And these days it doesn't take a BOV to make you a dickhead, people see you in a skyline and label you as a dickhead. Everyone here chose to drive a skyline. Thank your selves you don't live in america driving a jap car.

We had the aurion as a loan car from insurance a little while ago. Very fun to drive lol.