SargeRX8

Tao would you be able to mod any housing of your turbos to be externally gated from the bottom the housing with a 38mm vband flange to it? I'll be interested to see how this housing performs. I wanted to get a old housing on one of my planned turbos a while back modded to have the wastegate on the housing but I kept thinking there may be some turbulence and flow interference in it so ditched it. I really would love to run a screamer pipe lol and have a my dump customised to suit either a plumb back external gate setup or an atmo external gate setup. Tao how well do you rate those TFI pod filters? I really need to know if my apexi power intake is a restriction...

bump, prices negotiable. Also have a JVC headunit with USB, really good condition, $100 selling due to upgrading to a touch screen unit. Can get pix of this. Looks really nice, sleek and sexy.

Piece of shit. I knew I wired it right, spoke to philips and its a deck "feature" and they apologize if it is a disturbance. I just disconnected the antenna so all is fine now.

Nismo works great, looks stock.

I've got a gates belt, noisy only on idle. its only 100 from just jap. if I had to do it again il get a nismo belt.

Il be keen. What rollers are they? I want to see how I fetch up on a dyno dynamic.

It was fine with my pioneer deck. Fitted a new philips deck properly but the power antenna always goes up. I did not confuse the amp wire with the antenna wire. Could this be a deck characteristic? Its the one on special at auto barn philips ced750. Without pulling apart my dash how can I disable the antenna completely? I tried unplugging a wire near the rear quarter. It just disabled my fuel pump lol. its an r33.

How cheap is cheap and where abouts?

Bump guys, I am open to offers.

Ahh lol I got my context wrong. This is what I meant sorry.

Overfuelling on boost is generally a sign of a vacuum leak. Check ALL intake connections. Everything leading to boost gauges in the cabin too. I had a vacuum leak on my old skyline, it was so bad and overfuelling so much I had black smoke coming from everywhere. Fixed slip on the cooler piping and it was sweet again.

Bonnet pics. You can see why it does not fit a series 2...Touch up with a clear coat and its near mint condition. Rear brakes from the old car are gone.

Ive got bucket loads of elbow grease haha just need a fkn socket to get that damn nut off. Gonna wait til the weekend, Ill have free time this Sunday to find the thing.

I have for sale the following parts to help fund rego and other bits and pieces. R33 GTST front brakes with pads and all clips and shims. Pads still very thick, rubber boot uncracked $300 Series 2 diff $150 ABS pump $100 R33 Series 1 CF bonnet. I bought this piece of shit being told it was for series 2. My dad picked it up. Got home at 12am from work to fit in on only to see its for a series 1. Asking What I payed for it $500. Has some scratches but they can be sanded and clear coated to repair. Looks awesome, has vents and ducts n shit. I need a metal intake pipe. It must be a 3 OR 4" I also need a nice healthy pod filter. All parts are located in Sydney and pickup is prefered. Contract me via PM. Pictures on request.

I'm thinking of getting another 3" pipe, blocking my BOV and shoving a filter onto my breather pipe and just seeing if the 3" pipe makes a difference... Jez if I happen to make a new pipe and then bring the car up for a tune, ill bring the old pipe so we can have a laugh at it.

I will see what I am going to do. If I am going to get 4" then I need to put the AFM in the cooler pipe thus costing money on another tune. If I go 3" pipe, I need to pay someone to make the pipe. That is fine but if I decide that I want 4" then Ill be paying for two tunes and two pipes... My exhaust shouldn't be a factor, I have a 100 cell metal huge 5" bodied cat and a 3.5" exhaust with no mufflers. It will definitely be the intake side which is an issue. On 15psi the front end of the car lifts up like never before and the power difference in top end is huge. On the old actuator and 11psi it came on linear. This one here, when it comes on, its like f**k! I buckled when I gave it the first hit on 19psi even jez called me a bitch for not pushing it more haha. If only it didn't cost $100 to do a dyno run, I'd get one done on the same dyno I originally got it tuned to see if there is a difference between dyno dynamics and mainline. Rather than waste money on that, I will get a proper intake pipe. Tao you have a PM.

Tao I am running a 3 inch metal intake. I have a 3 inch connector to a 45 degree metal pipe which is connected to the stock top half of the metal intake pipe. My angle though is a modified pipe, we had to cut and bend then weld it so the corner is not 3 inch as we cut out half moons to bend the pipe. If I move the afm into the cooler pipe do I need to retune? Also do I need to retune with a new intake pipe or will the power just be unlocked?

Got it retuned, the AFR is perfect. Running more boost 15 low 19 high. Oddly enough high boost is seeing 250rwkw low boost is on about 217rwkw but low boost feels much stronger than the original 244rwkw on 11psi... Mind boggling. Intake pipe might be a huge restriction. Making close to 700nm of torque, it absolutely rips my face off compared to what it was before. Very impressed with the thorough tuning work done by Jez and bordy. A dyno gives you a number, but what you feel on the road is what counts and wow this is amazing. Just driving home on low boost the lift on the front end was intense.

Its a daily driver which I baby, never track and enjoy. It should last a while. Its hardest time is probably going to be on the dyno lol.

Tao has accomplished 320rwkw from the SS2 which does not cause wheel spin in gears, between gears though, is a different story haha.

You wanna sell the fronts by them selves? The rear wont fit an R33 GTST..

In comparison to a brand new PFC, yes, but I picked up my old PFC for 900(no hand controller) and the current one for 1050(hand controller). Each to their own! Lets just hope no body has to go through emissions testing. Its really a pain in the arse.

I punched my self in the face when I tightened up the block size banjo bolt only to realise the washer I used was too thin and the bolt was touching the inside of the turbo thus causing water to leak out. I had cuts and coolant f**king everywhere. I will be more than happy to change timing belts day in day out then have to install a f**king turbo again lol. Give me ramps and ill do your clutch too. Also for those saying the adaptronic is awesome because you can stash it into the stock ECU box... You do realize that the power FC can be modded the same way into the stock housing? If you get EPA'd, you're f**ked anyway, regardless of what housing your ECU is in. They can sniff that shit coming out of your exhaust.

Doesn't sound like a clutch slipping.... He said it feels like its dieing down and revs drop, rather than rapidly increase. It takes that little moment for it to kick back in and move again. You need to describe the problem further.. What it happens, do you get any popping or machine gun sounds? I had this issue twice, once it was misfire, the second time it was lean popping(failing fuel pump) and with the lean popping there was no way in shit stick I could get it past 4k.

Don't know what all the fret is over second hand genuine units are... Most of these are run with good filters. What if someone bought a brand new unit for their car, used it for 6 months, and then upgrades to map and sells the afm for half the price? Its a good saving on a unit which hasn't much age and will probably last you the life of the car... I bought my genuine piece over from the US a while back. Never had any issues with it(touch wood). I wouldn't buy an "z32 alternative". Often, the fake ones are listed as alternatives or aftermarket parts.