SargeRX8

Why? The turbo's that Tao has been working on recently really has sunk its claws into the top market turbos. Sure garretts are good, but they are generic turbos for any car; no specific application. These hypergear turbos are designed, built, and tested for RB motors. I know where I am(and have) putting my money. No dicking around with spacers, custom dumps, wastegate setups etc.

That is just high and low boost. If it was setup right, and the guy you bought it from had the car tuned at a reputable place, I wouldn't give anyone money to start fiddling with it. If its making power and not knocking, why burn money. Nice turbo too, very responsive piece of kit. Don't change anything on it. It looks like some big money and time has been put into it. Enjoy it and when you feel you need more, strap on a hypergear.

If you are in Sydney, Fairfield exhaust shop will do custom intake pipes for $80 - $120 a piece. Really good price but I ended up making my own piece of shit. I wouldn't mind getting something proper made. I designed my metal pipe around the pod filter, and z32 and enclosure. I should have made a pipe bigger, all metal and then remade a box to suit. Silly me.

Today I started the car while the car was facing a southern direction so the sun was behind me. Immediately as soon as the car started I saw the fuel haze coming from the petrol filler cover and the smell hit the cabin straight away. It is definably something going on in there. I doubt it is the cap as I am using two caps, one definitely working from my old car and both rubbers are still fine etc. I'm gonna try to what jez said, clean the shit out and reseal it. It really did not look safe because if there was any spark or flame in that area the car will go boom.

I have been keeping a close eye on fuel as my old pump failed and now it is fitted with a GTR. When the pump was failing I was lean popping left right and center and the car was near undriveable. I won't rule it out but I am not leaning towards the fuel pump having an effect at this stage. What causes the engine to breath heavy? I have fitted a sealed catch can into my car so I can pull it out to check oil levels. Although my dip stick oil level is practically exactly where I left it but I doubt the effect of heavy breathing and oil blow by is enough to drop that line. I am leaning towards either a one off where something, some cell, some air, something just triggered some detonation or tricked the sensor. With that said I'm not turning a blind eye to it. I just took the car for a drive. Done some 6krpm through the gears and max det was 9 or 10 on the power fc controller. Exact same roads, almost the same weather just didn't hit the limiter today. I have indeed but fiddling with something I am not too confident with is something I want to avoid. The car is going to get a tune up soon for more boost so until then, ill just lay off the heated driving. I haven't. The current plugs have about 500km on them. When I have time I will pull them out and check for signs of det. I pulled one out for inspection and it looks more to the rich side if anything. Plug shape and structure still looks very healthy.

Ah cool. Can you PM me your Profec B spec 2 settings and what boost you are running on high and low? Ive got the same controller so Ill use your settings just as a guide line for when I get the high pressure actuator. What is the max boost your greddy controller stores on your boost settings? My high settings read about 11.3psi and low is about 10psi. Sometimes a 13psi spike on high. High is 100% too lol.

^ Haha some nice reads there. Commodore drivers are the most over prided drivers I have EVER come across. They seriously think they own the fastest cars on the street or something. I had one guy in a VZ SS ute pull up near a set of lights. He was australian by the sounds of it with his asian girlfriend. She looked at my car and so did he. He just laughed. He gave it a bootfull off the lights and as usual got off quicker than I did. I never launch. I just planted my foot after I was in gear and away I went. I have never seen a passenger laugh so hard in my life. His girlfriend pissed her self laughing at him when I tore past him. I was driving to get some breakfast with my lady the other day when an R8 ute comes up in my ass. I didn't think anything of it as it was morning traffic on woodville road. Anyway he managed to get into the right lane, come near me then blip his throttle. His V8 with awesome extractors and free flowing exhaust sounded like shit and my lady was like what the f**k did his car just do. I was like "he wants to race us, look at his face" He was angry. I don't know why, but he was. Anyway we had some nice straight which was relatively clear. he planted his foot, I dropped back from third to 2nd and pulled away. I didn't even bother shifting into 3rd, pop pop pop I hit my limiter, then into 4th and cruised along. He came ROARING PAST probably thinking how the f**k did that sushi roll beat my muscle. My lady loved it. She generally gets scared if I give it a squirt and generally I am a very calm and collect driver, but when Ive got some cocky prick next to me who just won't f**k off, I have to put him in his place. I like other JDM drivers. They have so much more respect. Sometimes we give it a little squirt then rock up at a set of lights and just ask each other what we got and have a chat til the lights green. Then we just drive off, normal pace. Any other holden, or ford, will dish out vomit and flat foot as fast as they can. Only reason holden put a v8 in that car is because anything smaller will struggle to move the obese shell its dragging. Look at their V6 range. I don't care how heavy a skyline may be but its got a 2.5l under the bonnet and even a non turbo skyline would be a much better performer in every aspect than a 3.6/3.8l commonwhore.

^ Very true. Changing the cover wont fix it, but one dial back will pull the timing back to a point it almost will never ping(if the tune is already safe and had rare det, it should be "safer"). I can understand the car is now out of original spec so there could be numerous things triggering the sensor. I hope it is a one off, so I'm gonna take it easy on the car until the retune with Jez. There are alot of clunks and clanks which could trigger the warning, but turning a blind eye to it, especially if it happens again, is a stupid move. Better safe than sorry. Does anyone know what the voltage range of the knock sensor is for the R33 Series 2 RB25 motor? I want to build a knock gauge and have it calibrated for the voltage range of the knock sensor. I don't believe there would be a max voltage(well there would be but technically there is no limit to how hard an engine can knock, is there?) so I assume it would start from 0v. Depending on how it increments ill calculate something to give a out of 100% figure. I think that is why Apexi just display a number. Numbers are infinite so its just the higher the worse, there is no real red line. Its 12am and I'm tired.

What are you strapping it onto? Your profile lists a GTR, are you going single turbo on the RB26?? If so I will be very interested to see how this goes! Just organized another actuator from Tao, designed for my turbo! Excitement rising!

As I have said, have it work as a switch. It is not always tracking but only tracking when switched on. I'm keen on this idea and would be happy to help develop a system only for sau users. if I has a development basis at hand I would be willing to develop an application to monitor and log locations but when things start costing me money it would probably result in some sort of a package purchase which could include the gps sensor, installation hardware, support and tracking... Then again there are already tried and tested kits out there. The only difference is the costs could be non profit and exclusive only to club members.

I really dont want external gate boost control... That will totally eliminate any stock looking setup. My old gt3071 high flow had perfect boost control to 14psi. These actuators feel very lazy. What boost controller do you have? These actuators are really inconsistent. Check Taos last couple of posts, he had one of his high pressure actuators spike to 25psi. You cant make the actuator open earlier then it should, a boost controller can bleed off air to delay the actuator opening so unless your boost controller has a near perfect 17psi spring fitted in it, its maybe just a one off that it is holding 17psi allowing you to control 18psi. I'm not worry about it tapering down, my concern is the initial boost level and the fact that you cannot control this. Bleeding off air will only cause the boost controller to open later.

I'm not gonna say anything. I can smell sarcasm but I just cant be sure....

I am aware that is is the pressure of expansion of the fuel in the tank which causes the psssh but it must be going pssh for a reason and Nissan must have designed it as a sealed system for a reason. I just like it when things operate the way they should. Maybe it won't do shit to the car but I don't know, its just the little voice in my head that somewhat seeks normalisation/perfection. If I hear a single squeak or rattle in the car, I'm under it for days trying to check out the cause. Thats just me lol. The vapor canister is all hooked up. Its a replaced unit(unsure why it was replaced, possible due to damage when the car was majorly guttered). What should I be looking at? They are cheaper than chips to buy and if this could be causing my lack of psssh ill replace it.

The headgasket, the combustion pressure, the heat. Alot of issues come in when running high boost. I don't think the standard headgasket is good for much above 18psi for too long, especially on 15+ year old motors. You are really gonna start increasing the intake air charge on long runs. Sure it looks good on a dyno but how long is your motor going to last you. Stao, I have one of your 17psi actuators which I bought from here, I tested it out and the thing does not open up to 25psi... It starts opening around 19psi... I really think you should use some higher quality actuators. Garret parts are cheaper than the actuators you have and should be of better quality and provide a straight and consistent boost level. Its a sloppy setup having an actuator which opens randomly when on boost. On this low pressure actuator I got from you, sometimes it opens at 8psi sometimes it will shoot up to 14psi. Other days it won't go anywhere near 11psi. Its very strange. Air temp wont mean shit, pressure is pressure, if the actuator is holding 10 constant, it should always hold 10 constant. I'm guessing maybe when under bonnet temps or the turbo temps get hot, the spring may get soft causing boost to flop or the spring to work out of spec. I don't know but I do need to run more boost but scared to do so with these actuators. Are you able to source Garret actuators to fit your turbos? Have you considered kinugawa actuators? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Turbo-Actuator-SUBARU-Legacy-WRX-IHI-VF40-VF46-15-Psi-/280712012508?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item415bbd62dc

We shall see what happens in my situation. I forgot to check the boost levels I hit to see if there was a spike or anything which could have caused a slight lean mixture. I will be trying to recreate the knock again. I drove first gear quietly into second then at low rpm kind of pushed it to about red line(hit the limiter lol) then cruised into third and gave it a little moosh and that was it. The road was dead flat but maybe the extra load on 2nd from the low rpm and the lag of the turbo had some effect? Not keen on trying it out again but I need to. Fairly sure its 60 as that is what my tuner has told me and that is what is written on paul r33's Power FC FAQ. The first thing I notice is the engine light flash, it did not flash that is why I had no idea it knocked. Only when I parked the car, I was like I can pull timing on the whole tune if it starts to rear its head again but I am truly hoping its a one off.

It wasn't a comparison, it sounded more like another example of. He is saying the stock intercooler isn't designed with the volume flow and capacity of a built up and modded engine. The same can be said about the exhaust, the output of the engine is greater and the original exhaust is not designed with enough flow and volume to let the gasses escape. Again, the injectors could be another example, 370cc injectors will flow just that, but when you need more fuel they run out of capacity. An example is not a comparison. He could have said something out of context like, if you were running a marathon it would be ridiculous to take a smaller popper of juice rather than a larger bottle which could hold more for the race. Sure the popper is good for small sprints but over a long distance run, you need more juice. GTR fuel pump is good for about 350 - 400rwkw I was told by my tuner. Ive got a 040 brand new incase my GTR pump fails. The 040 will support around the same power and be in a healthier state.

In my old car I built a little system which required a magnet to be swiped past the dash to enable a relay to let you start the car. Of course if anyone really wanted to start your car they can sit there and go through your wiring and bypass it(they aren't hard at all). But its time. That is the essence to a thief. They don't have much of it and things need to be done in about 2 - 5 minutes. They aren't going to sit at your car for 30mins figuring out your security system. I like the method above of sitting a old mobile phone with GPS to track its location. Its much cheaper than a GPS alarm system plus the $400 a year monitoring. Even google offer free gps tracking on their android phones so you just have to pick up a cheap $100 android phone, install some apps, enable gps and hardwire a charging system for your phone. But no matter how much work you put into your GPS system, a thief can obtain from MANY places GPS scramblers and mobile phone signal scramblers which will cost half the price of your alarm system. This topic has been said and done, there is no way to completely secure your car. Just don't park in hot spots. The best security method for theft is obviously car insurance. If you don't have insurance on your car, you really don't deserve to be driving it. I don't give two shits. Even third party covers theft. I was involved in an accident with a scum bag, international student, with no Australia license and no insurance, not even third party. My fist wants to connect with faces. If people are concerned of their privacy with the above system, it would not be hard at all to incorporate the system to only be active when the car is switched off. Sure people are going to be seeing WHERE you parked the car but only give access to a trusted team. You gotta remember a system like this can protect your car BUT in the wrong hands/eyes can identify where your car is parked at any time of day/night.... If one of those guys who works at these car GPS monitoring places knew a Ferrari 599 was equipped with an alarm and parked at x location, he could leak this information to people... Its touchy touchy. Car insurance, best, proven way to secure your investment/money pit.

Well I had the car tuned not too long ago and the fueling issues have been creased out. When it was tuned, the max ping/knock on power FC we saw was about 19. 2 months later, today, I was driving home and gave it a little squirt. Got home and checked my hand controller and saw 60 knock. First time ever above 19. From 19 to 60 is a big change... When the car was tuned, it was tuned on the Caltex 98 Vortex fuel. Currently it has BP ultimate in it. Could this have any effect? Also it was tuned during the colder days of winter. The weather has been a little warmer. I was reading that knock above 60 is somethign to worry about. For me knock above 20 - 30 makes me feel uncomfortable. This with the old tune for stock parts never knocked past 4. Is this something I should look into? Is it a one off? Could it be other engine noises which caused it to register? If you've got a power FC, what knock do you get and what do you feel comfortable below? I'm gonna stick with using Caltex fuel from now on in, see if that makes a difference. I'm taking the car up to jez soon to get it retuned for more boost so maybe if these temps are a little warmer the car will be adapted to this shit winter we are having.

The whole alternator is bolted to the engine. The whole thing it self acts as a ground I believe. I can't recall if it has a dedicated ground but when my last motor was pulled to sell it had the red power cable coming out of it. I can't recall for sure as I have never had to deal with the alternator but I can find out(others can to and others might know). Just get a wiring diagram and check it out.

Thats what I would like to know too. Its clearly holding pressure so one would assume it would have an effect on the overall fuel system if there is no pressure in the system. Tomorrow ill be fixing mine by gooing up the hose as JEZ suggested. I know that when my car is parked, I can see the air hazy around the fuel cap area, when the lid is on. So there is definitely something going on there.

There are alot of could of which could be said but they said the engine is not bored and its a mines stage 2 engine. I don't think mines have released a stroker kit(don't count me on this, but I heard of any...). They are also using HKS2530 twin turbos which are super responsive on that car. Just the way they spoke of it, and the subtitles, and what it was built for will lead you to believe that it is a super responsive R34GTR. The way it goes from 4krpm to 8krpm in less than a second.. thats response to me. Sure there could be more shit under there we can't see but the generals are outlined. The 26 coupled with those turbos alone will be a fairly responsive setup. It is a 600hp car. I wouldn't imagine its a non responsive car lol. And you can tell when they touch the throttle, Ive driven the R32 VW golf with DSG gearbox and when you plant your foot there is like a second of nothing while the car gets it self into gear. In a manual, pretty much as soon as you let go of the clutch and back on the petrol the revs will climb almost immediately. Ive got a hypergear turbo and there is nearly no delay at all at 3500+rpm and the foot planted from a down shift.

eBay or the forsale section here. You will almost definitely be able to find one and someone can post it out to you. You have either shorted something out or that alternator is f**ked. You can get them reco'd.

My stock actuator was leaking lol so I could never set it right. 14% saw 12psi one day and no more than 8.4 another.

If you are just letting the fluid drip out of the nipple, you're doing it wrong. I don't give two shits what anyone says but you SHOULD ALWAYS put a clear piece of tubing over the nipple and place it in a jar ABOVE the lowest point(or on the ground I cant remember haha). I spent about a day trying to bleed my clutch after I changed it. Couldn't do it. Had to press the clutch all the way down and it still wouldn't feel right. Called lube mobile, they didn't take money coz he couldn't fix it and said my fork was broken. My old man neighour came past, asked what I was doing and I told him. He said I was doing it all wrong and without the pipe you will not see how much air is coming out and you also raise the chance of air going back into the system. 10 minutes later my pedal was perfect. That little screw won't really do shit about your bite point. Its more to adjust freeplay. If you have ALOT of travel that does nothing right until the last dead point of the pedal, clearly you have another issue in the system... Ive got about an inch before I can feel my clutch pulling and then the whole way to the floor is just.... normal I guess.

My water temps have been hitting about 89c(its happened twice only, on cool days and easy driving too). On average its 78 - 82C. Ill give her a flush and see how she goes otherwise Ill be upgrading my radiator soon. Bare in mind, I do have aftermarket everything on a stock motor. As others have said, until it dies or can't do what it should, don't change it. Defi gauges.... 600 for something a $50 gauge can do. I know what I'll be choosing. Ive got some Auto Platonium gauges. Payed like $200 for a complete set plus holder and all senders. All gauges seem accurate enough.