SargeRX8

So it would be nice and safe to increase the RPM just to create the cushion around the red line? The dyno graph was just to show that if I did increase the rpm and happen to take it 200rpm higher, I won't just be running the turbo out of efficiency and creating more heat in the turbo. Ill speak to JEZ about this when I take the car up to him.

The car wont be seeing this type of RPM day to day, its simply to create a cloud around the original red line so there isn't that splutter when you hit the limit and lose power. Unless it can be done safely, I won't do it. I can understand the stress on the head will greatly rise. 20psi through it and close to 400hp isn't helping either. Simon is crazy but I do admire his work lol. If I can get my self an RB30 bottom end for cheap and pickup an RB25 head down the track, ill build my motor slowly as a backup if this does go ahead and something goes plunk lol.

AC Compressor. Its a clutch driven system. It is on, then off, then on again etc to keep the car cool and remain economical. Its normal, they clunk as the clutch engages allowing it to spin the belt on the compressor and create the cool wind. You can often hear them engaging and disengaging even in the cabin. Switch your air condition off and it wont engage. From the front of the R33 going down from top to bottom, on the right you have the power steering pump, always spinning. Then abit lower to the left side of the car you have the alternator, also always spinning, I think this one also drives the clutch fan/water pump too. To the bottom on the right, under the power steering unit you've got the AC compressor. RIGHT at the bottom is the tensioner for the AC belt.

Hey all, I want to ask some questions about the red line on the RB25DET motor and gearbox. Ive read a couple dynos in the rb25 thread and some people have higher than 7000rpm red lines. I am not one to push my car to red line but when I do, I just pop pop pop as I hit the limiter. By what amount would one be decreasing the life of the engine by increasing rpm limit to say 7500? What is it which will have the most strain imposed on it, box, engine, syncros, etc? The reason I ask is sometimes I hit the limiter at only 6900rpm. If I can raise the RPM limit to say 7500 and then use 7000 as my max rpm, that would be awesome, that way I don't have the power flop of missing a shift at 7krpm. Ive hit 7krpm, 3 times n my car. I never usually go past 5500 - 6000. Stock top and bottom end with all bolt on mods and the power fc ecu. This is my current dyno setup on the SS2 hypergear turbo. The dyno from Tao running full boost(20psi) The turbo will certainly hold the power beyond red line. I am not doing this to get any extra speed or power, but mainly to prevent hitting the limiter and losing that bit of power. People fit Bee R rev limiters all the time on stock motors and from factory these hit 7krpm so I can only imagine the purpose of installing the rev limiter is to raise rpm and not lower it. Anyone shed any light on what I can destroy here and if I should or should not do this?

That is actually the most logical and awesome reason not to use it. I seriously did not think of it like that, I always thought greddy suggested it as its closest to the plenum. lol out of paranoia, I will be changing mine.

2k for that kit looks really nice. I want to ask some question of my own and do not intend on hijacking the thread. Would it be a waste of money to simply by the kit and fit it into the block? Are these direct replacement pistons or slightly larger? I can understand the prep work on the bottom end etc but how much is necessary? How much of it can be done your self(without any machining tools etc)? Would it be necessary to work the head too? This is a situation where you are NOT chasing big power but just to strengthen an engine to keep it happy and running smoothly. This is not in relation to my car, just information I'd like to know. Most of the times you see rebuilds are people going for huge power or huge turbos etc. You don't very often hear about the little guy running a high flow or a small Garrett 3071 building using forged parts. I was this close || to buying a VL motor the other day just to build up the bottom end and save it for a very rainy day. Ive done so much mechanical work and would love to say that I have built a motor. I cringe when I see knock on my power fc and I'm scared this might bring me some day closer to a rebuild. I know if you pop a motor there is definitely more work than just replacing pistons(scored bores etc)... I'm looping here lol.

You should have seen my spark plugs after 300km. I was rich as f**k, this shit was snow flaking off. This lasted for about 800km so this could also have altered the colour of the oil coming out and he probably means that say per km of driving, an aging/modded RB will produce more carbon in comparison to other cars. Quite normal I believe for a modded engine running richer fuel mixtures. The more fuel you burn, the more carbon deposits there will be. I too wasn't saying sougi was a bad oil, but as you said, I misread the oil just going by the old bull you hear about the darker it is the more burnt it is. I feel good knowing that it is cleaning my engine.

Uhh but the greddy manual says to do this...

I got the hks hi power, best ever.

Don't pull it apart. Pinpoint the source first. You'll ruin the head gasket as its been crimped already. You've also over torqued them a little(I don't think it should impact it that much though...) so you want to be careful the bolt isn't weakened by fiddling with it too many times. Its MUCH MUCH easier to do a leak down then it is to rip the head off.

The stock Nissan one sits at the back of the engine bay I think. I just used the line to my FPR.

There is no direct correlation between awkw and rwkw. You cant say that an evo, for example, making 200awkw will make 250rwkw and that 300rwkw = 250awkw. Flywheel power is not really useful for us, as said above, its what you lay on road. I had some guy at CRD(not a worker, some dead shit dynoing his twin turbo awd mitubishi something). He made 140awkw. My skyline made 225rwkw, he walks up to me and goes "my car is 4wd so as a 2wd it will make about 280. I think he thinks that he is losing 50% power on the front wheels turning... RB26DETT from Nissan is quoted at 206kw. Ive read on wiki I think that Nissan may not be truthful with this figure though and that it might be more as they needed to list it as 206kw to be able to sell the car in Japan or something. I read something crazy like that somewhere, I'm not too sure. If you have advanced your timing a little and your engine is healthy, it should be making close to 206kw, maybe more, at the flywheel. Given the age of the engine and the quality of fuel here, it could vary.

Are you guessing that the pressure is seaping out across the thread of the stud? I want to keep eye on progress here, I feel I could learn something. If it was me, I would have suspected timing could be off. You could do a leak down test before you take the head back off and see where you hear the PSSSH from. Even if timing is off one degree, you will get almost no pressure at all. What I would do is a leak down test on the first cylinder(I'm guessing you are getting 30psi read across the board), listen to the air psssh. If its coming from the exhaust or air filter, your timing could be off or something more. If you take out the plugs from the other cylinders and can hear air coming out of the next piston, you know the gasket isn't sealing. Also what you can do if you do decide a leak down test, get some rubber hose and run it around the head gasket around cylinder one and listen if you can hear the air pssshing from where the studs are. If you can you know the issue. Also after quick searches etc, the arp stud kit looks only to come with one set of washers...

It wasn't as black and burnt looking and didn't smell as strong. They don't smell like burnt oil, just a very petrol smell in them but it was stronger in the sougi oil. Maybe its the difference between the viscosity of the oil?

PM sent. very keen.

I want to drift. After reading, watching videos, looking around etc, it looks like great fun. Ive seen a couple drift mob cars(180 and a silver r33) parked near my work. Hopefully I can see the guys who own the cars and talk with them. I find it quite gay though that shit like this cost so much money. There should be some free tuition day. Anyhow, for now Ill be watching more japanese basic drifting videos. They are not bad at all, they show camera in car and out of the car so you can see what different situations do with the car. Most of the videos are skylines too, so I can relate! Would be awesome of work would let me use the car park for drifting haha.

Your relay/blinker might be on its way out. Smoke is never good. What is it? Unless its a fuse melting(which is very unlikely as they designed to blow, unless you put a higher rated 40a fuse in a 5a slot) it is most likely the wire casing melting. This isn't good. One second is nothing, but 3 - 5 seconds is enough to get rid of the plastic and leave bare wire exposed which can cause havoc. My mates ford laser smoked for about 3 seconds, he used the wrong fuse which didn't blow and allowed too much current through. The end result was a bundle of wire with minimal shielding literally melted together. He traded the car in the next day. I'm pretty handy with electronics, if anyone needs help, I'm near Parramatta and can see what I can do. Ive fixed all issues both electrical and mechanical in all my cars and helped my brother rig up two of his cars.

I can tell you where its from. The gutter in the boot leading the water around the tail light to the center garnish. Follow that route and you'll find that its either seaping in around the lugs for the nuts or in that area. Be generous with this glue shit.

My RP, in the same car, came out better looking than my sougi. Doing another change today. After this last bottle of sougi, Ill be giving motul 300v a try.

You should see my headlight right now fml. And back in the days, my old skyline had about 1cm of water in the rear tail light. That black windscreen stuff is the win. Get the black stuff, in there, everywhere. Pull the light out, clean the old shit out and put the new shit in. You'll see what I mean.

Wow, $350 for brand new light, Ive seen second hand ones for for as much from wreckers. I would pick this up if I just didn't pay $200 for my passenger side sh piece damn

I believe the same method should work for the front lights too. f**king shit, I just polished up one of the lights and when sanding must have got some water in the back and now there is condensation building up. Hope that water was clean or Ill be ripping faces off if I see dried up marks. With the condensation though, what I would do rather than pull the light apart is blow some air into it with the two light caps off at the back or chuck a hair dryer in the rear. Ill check it out tomorrow. its my other headlight which has a dead bug and other shit in it I need to clean up. Condensation will only form if the light is not sealed, so if you are running HID's and you modded the back of your caps to suit, seal them up. That shit is f**king annoying.

Ive noticed on both ignition dumps you have posted are more than the max ignition timing on my car. What is the cause of this? Was my tuner being too safe? Or do you think that there could be such a variation in cars that my car is set to run 42degrees max(I think, this is what PFC shows as my peak ignition when I punch to red line in any gear).

Well that could lead you to believe many things. Point is I have NEVER seen those style hose clamps up on the standard throttle body. Its enough for me to say someone changed them because the old ones were shit. This was in light of the badge work. You are going too far thinking of an engine swap... I think if he looks around, there may be more proof of an NA converted to turbo.

Just by looking at the engine bay pics, and from what I can recall, those are NOT the standard hose clamps holding the crossover pipe to the throttle body. You just found your answer. The blue plate says RB25DE. Its an RB25DE+T not an RB25DET. It was not factory turbo, but an NA gone turbo. When I was in the market for a GTR, I found an R33. Everything looked mint. Colour I wanted, everything was sweet. First thing I did was look at the plate, the blue plate said it was an ECR33 and that it is an RB25DE. I walked away. What the hell is an RB26DETT doing in an R33 series 1 badged car with flared kit. People cheat and steal alot with changing engines around, putting plates on the car they didn't come on etc. Yours would seem more true and legit though. You have an auto R33 gone turbo. I can't be certain but I can tell you 100% that they have fitted in new hose clamps which will lead me to believe the car is legit and that it was legitimately converted to turbo. Its ugly finding things after you buy the car but what can you do, you will almost always find something. I almost bought a complete stock standard "never run past stock boost" r33 gtr until I squeezed the line and felt the boost pressure limiter thing was missing indicating the car has clearly been run past stock boost. Shit happens really. Old cars, they have all been thrashed, boosted, driven hard etc. As long as she moves fine, you'll be sweet. Enjoy it.