SargeRX8

Would be nice if we could buy one of those butterfly valves to replace the hot dog or weld it in line to my exhaust behind the cannon. It will effectively have the same effect as muting the canon but without running a varex. You don't need to be modified beyond recognition to get a yellow, just don't do anything stupid and attract unnecessary attention and you should be right. Some defects might not need a whole check over, some people get defected and its just a matter of taking the car to any shop who does the rego pass thing and getting them to check it out and give you the tick. Its quite arse if you have to return to stock. Almost enough reason to sell the car for parts really. Ive seen cars modded beyond engine recognition which have been on the roads for years in my area. Just respect your car, respect the rules and if you still get the yellow, let hell break loose lol. There should be rules to modding cars but cmon, its too far. Induction noise from a pod filter warrants a defect? Sure a little wooshing sound is a little louder than stock but that harley davidson driving past my place at 2am deafening the shit out of everyone in the 2km surrounding area won't cop even a warning from police for the sound it makes. Its quite absurd. My car is HARDLY anywhere near as loud as those bikes yet I would get into shit and they wouldn't.. Don't even get me started on trucks. Their induction noise is like a f**king skyline amplified a million times.

When an electrical component is running efficiently, or shorting, it overheats due to wasted energy. But since the alternator also has moving parts, something could be warn internally and friction is causing excess heat. If your electronics are overvolting, you would have probably killed some crucial electronic components but its a good idea to check out the voltage asap. Any fuses popping?

37% on the stock actuator won't give anywhere near 15psi.... I've got a 8psi actuator and the same boost controller set at 100% and the most boost I've seem was 12 psi, maybe one or two 13psi spikes.

From around 4 minutes.... he even has stock airboxes!

That's cheating lol. It never looked like that from factor. The Skylines(bar R31 & <) look awesome from factory. I still think an R32 GTR is one of the most toughest looking japanese cars ever produced.

Far enough in you can't see them at all when looking from the ass end of the car. 30mm spacer lol. I've got 5mm(pass brakes by 2mm) and I'm hating it. I get what, 5 turns onto the lug.

Some people just have TOO much self pride never to do a burnout or a skid? Bull shit. If you didn't do it in a skyline, you've done it in something else. Why you are all so uptight and anal about it, is beyond me. I'm not condoning burnouts but seriously, wow. You have a car that can rip burn outs pretty easily. You have a car that comes with the reputation of being a sporty, fast, fun car yet you drive like vaginas? Kudos to you. People spend HUGE money on cars every day, just because you spent 10k on your 10k car does not mean you need to drive it like a granny in a carrera GT. If he enjoys doing a burn out, let him do it, let him cop the aftermath of it all. He asked for advice, what he does with it is not on your shoulders. If you want to cheat, roll back a little, neutral, 5krpm drop first, limiter, second, limiter, 3rd and sit. Soft suspension, thinner tyres, will be easier. Ive only done two burnouts that I can recall. 7 years of driving. If anyone here gives me shit for it, you can f**k your self.

Ive got +40 up front on my R33 GTST with 235 tyres and a 5mm spacer. They do NOT sit flush and there really is not more thread to hold onto. I don't trust those bolt on spacers. Id get longer studs fitted and a proper spacer made to suit your car. I can't stand running spacers. I hate it, I don't trust it but unfortunately I don't have the $ to get wheels to fit so I just left them on the car. I know you said it in your first line but honestly man just wait for the right set of wheel to show up. You can get defected for running spacers and depending how big they are you aren't going to have much thread to grab onto.

having holes in the engine bay from factory pipe holes: No, unless you removed something which was a safety feature of the car lol. having a hard mounted pod filter with no air box: Some states it doesn't matter how its mounted, it could warrant a defect. Check locally. having your coil packs showing: Shouldn't really matter. having black smoke stains on your bumper: As above, it just shows your car is rich and probably has been modified. having a after market ecu: Yeah but its not likely to be the first thing you would get picked up on. any aftermarket bov that is plumbed: Sometimes it doesn't matter if its plumbed back, people here HAVE been defected for running afterkmarket BOV's even when plumbed back. Some rules are bullshit. I recall some guy here saying he got defected for his shielded pod because "it wasn't fully sealed..." Fully sealing an intake? I think some police officers should take basic mechanic lessons and learn that if you have a SEALED intake, you may as well be running a SEALED exhaust to prevent any emissions, or maybe some other awesome idea they would come back with like plumb back your exhaust into your intake. Its like smelling your own toxic fart forever, you won't last long. Make everything black, not shiny, not stand out. Don't be a prick. Your self and the police deserve respect. Be respectful to you and they may show the same towards you and your car. Ive seen some police officers admire the work people put into their car.

I hate it when my car makes PSSH noises, but the one I have noticed is not evident, which probably should be, is the fuel cap. No matter how much, or how little, fuel is in the tank it just doesn't go pssh when I open it. All our other cars do. I have been getting a strong smell of fuel in the cabin and someone said it could be the fuel cap. What are the causes to this? Ive swapped another fuel cap in there from my old skyline which I am 110% certain went pssh when I opened it but haven't driven the car yet to build up pressure in the tank. Could there be another issue? I'm not having any issues with the car, just this smell on start up and the only noticed this when the dude told me to try it out. Injectors are not/should not be leaking as I am not running rich enough to cause starting or firing issues anymore, and they are using all brand new seals all round. Its an R33 GTS25T lol. Is it normal for it to go pssh or does it not matter if it does or doesn't.

How's the suspension like? Hard? Soft? Comfortable? Ive got an R33 so I might be interested if you will separate the fronts from the rears.

Yeah I was thinking about that... if its leaking it will be leaking into the piston causing the cylinder to flood and bog down. Why not let it die down as it does then rip out the spark plugs and look for wetness. Its MUCH easier to pull spark plugs than it is to pull the rail. My old car did and that. I just tried it out on this car(and I recall when I used to go fill up) it does not do the psssh sound. I don't think it ever has... I took the cap off my other skyline and chucked it onto this one. The car is warm so I'm gonna let it pressurize then remove it see if it makes a difference. Is the filler cap not going pssh a problem WITH the filler cap?

Do you REALLY want to see a Nissan badge on this? Neither would I. And Reading the argument about the GTS25T, I knew that that is the model of the car but when people ask "is it a GT or GTST", do you really want to reply "Neither, its a GTS25T"? R34 only came out in the GT, GTT and GTR(vspec etc).

I never said it was or wasn't I was just saying that you could call up the builder of the motor, inquire about when the motor was built, who it was built for, the parts used and what ever you need to ask. Most reputable builders are true and honest because they dedicate them selves to the products they build. And my argument was not about not pulling apart the motor. Someone on previous pages asked him to chuck it on an engine dyno. I know the turbos sitting near the engine don't make it look too great but you can't expect the guy to have all the gear to get it thrown on a dyno to attempt to prove power. I was not arguing against pulling the motor apart for photos of piston tops, studs and looking into the head for head work, but more so the seller having the parts to obtain a engine dyno displaying the power output. Its like when you go to inspect a car to buy. The seller can give you all the words in the world saying he has forged pistons, aftermarket rods, new bearings and what not and be asking just an average price. He can say he bought the car from bla bla person with the mods done and have no receipts. You can't ask the guy to strip his motor down just to show you it has the parts before you buy it. I know the situation is different but its the same thing. My brother has bought two fully built 13B motors. One had paper work, the other had nothing. Both motors were shown on a pallet. Both were built by reputable builders and sold on forums just like this(aus rotor). He contacted the engine builder to attempt to verify the original seller and the parts and work done on the motor. Both motors have done what they were told they were to do and are now with other people who bought them off him. If you don't feel comfortable, you should not outlay your money. Even if someone showed me photos of the engine internals, I wouldn't buy it. A motor is something I would not buy without my own personal inspection. Each to their own. I'm not angry or anything I'm just putting shit out there lol. And someone PM'd me offering 6k for a motor. I AM NOT THE SELLER lol.

That is true but generally when people speak of the stuff they imagine the woven carbon fibre. If that is the case I would say its no different than general moulding and fibre glassing then applying the cf look overlay and sealing it.

I want a soarer and I would get nothing buy the v8. The sound they make is amazing.

My brother makes fibre glass boot enclosures alot and it is in no way his profession. Cf would be a little more difficult I suspect as you are also concerned with how it looks so need to get the pattern nice and neat.

Do you really think if there was a leak that you won't be able to smell it? Fuel has one of the strongest smells and even a drop in your engine bay will be very distinct. Ive got my old fuel rail here which was pulled out of the car to fit in the new rail. Ive pulled out all the injectors and the rubber is still nice and supple and there are no cracks or tears. I just think that if there was leaky fuel, you would smell it. Just loosen the rail where it sits, lift it up and them keep priming your fuel pump over and over and watch for leaks.

Anyone from Parramatta area or lower going to this?

Bump, these are cheap prices cmon need stuff gone. Ive got some boost two stage, high low, boost controller I dont need either. Tell me where you can get one for $70. It works perfectly I just don't use it as I have a profec b. Ive got a genuine Nismo exhaust if anyone is interested. Its got a big mouth but it is really quiet. Don't know if I will sell it right off or keep it as it will be easier to shut up if I need to.

That is a little hard for him to do. The motor was built by a reputable group(matouks, he is quite famous for his RB's). I'm sure if you call them up and ask about the motor they can help you out. I don't think scr33m has the turbo and other gear needed to demonstrate the 1000hp. Just because he bought the motor does not mean he has the turbo and other gear for it.

Sard ones are good, my bro uses them in both his rotors with big power. I use a nismo.

Everything didn't line up. If his car did that 200 speed, the gtr he spoke of is clearly faster if it walks away after 140km/h. If that is the case that gtr has a 0 to 200 almost as fast as veyron... But yeah back on topic. Tao has there been any progress on the electric spoiling system? I've been thinking about it and this thing is going to affect the air flow meter setup. Maybe you will need two afm's. Or run a map sensor or create a ugly pipe with a u pipe coming out which holds the fan system in place.

Ive never done track work in my life. Ive done go karting and really, I was shit scared lol(I was 15). Ive watched a fair few videos of trackwork in Sydney and Melbourne and even the videos get me nervous. On the street I don't race, I don't speed through traffic. Really all I might do is the boost when its quiet or just to overtake a some cars. Anyone can floor it in a straight line or a bendy road but I want to do that slide around the corner shit, come out straight and fight dragons n shit. What got you started and how did you start? If I wanted to start, where do I begin? I'm concerned not only about my health and safety but also others on the track and that of the car I drive. I see sooooo many close calls on the tracks. I see the constant handbrake being pulled around a turn and some f**king insane steering going on. I don't even do that stuff in Need for Speed lol. Any pointers/advice? I hate to ask but have there ever been any major injuries or fatalities on track work within this or any other known club? It all makes me nervous but I am keen to try it. I just don't know where you got all that practice from. Ive watched a few videos on drifting techniques and how to get your car to slide into turns n what not. Sure it looks easy in the video but I am still shit scared to try it out and on top of that I wouldn't know where to try it out. I would be embarrassing my self taking the car to the track for the first time. Are there places which conduct private lessons and what not? Guide me, link me, show me, take me! Also my cars brakes are currently no good so obviously I want to do the theory part first as I sort out the brakes and then do the practical lol.

Sure the evo is quick off the line but my old skyline was quicker than a modded evo running about 24 - 26psi(about 230awkw). Take off he had me, but rolling I could pull away in third gear. Ive experienced a very responsive turbo. My old car had a 2835 or a 3071, can't remember, fitted into the core. Stamped with the garret tag. Made about 225rwkw on 12psi on about 2800rpm. It would be my current car off the line but as soon as both cars dropped second, this SS2 will get infront. Lets see how we go about getting this retune done!