SargeRX8

Ah I wish 300, its about 245 on 11psi. The actuator and boost controller won't give anymore I'll pm you. About 3500 rpm, I shift at 4k then into second at about 3krpm with foot planted almost at red line in a couple of seconds with the turbo at full song under 4krpm. Even in first gear its on full boost by about 3800rpm which isn't bad for first gear. When it was on dyno, we hit 20.1psi at about 3700rpm in 4th. Yeah that is fair enough. The tuner told me he can get you the biggest figure he can if you like but he will never recommend it. Its always better to be safe than sorry, especially when playing with expensive toys.

I might be free later tonight around 9 or 10 or wednesday. Other than that it will have to be a weekend. Let me know, PM me. Ive got brand new 245 tyres on the rear stretched to 255 wheels and I still get slippery when going into second, I wouldn't even bother touching any positive boost during the rain. As nismoid said, a turbo which comes on hard is just going to give you wheelspin and rev the gear out or wait til you get some traction by controlling your foot. Its hard to say, my old car had a very snappy turbo, full boost by 2800rpm(15psi) but made peak power high up in the rev range and then dropped once it peaked. It was a small high flow with garret internals. This new turbo honestly does pull all the way to red. I never even need to use my first gear I just get up to 4krpm then drop into 2nd and plant my foot.

You want too much from a turbo but don't want wheel spin. You are from parra, ill take you got a drive in my car with the ss2. Consider a hks2835. Believe me when my turbo comes on it comes on hard. When I say linear I don't mean flat to a build up at red line, I mean comes on hard and delivers with constant and consistent linear pull to red line. A turbo to come on early will run out of puff near the red.

Do you create this power at one point them fall off or maintain til red line? What turbo do you have?

Superchargers are big units full of gears driven by a direct drive gear from the engine. All the work is done inside. I think it is much simpler using an electric system rather Supercharge style system... That is what I was getting at with my other post, there would be no room to fit the gear under the bonnet. nissan mach all over again lol. I've got the only ss2 at the moment. It has fnt built in. for a rough idea, the turbo creates 243rwkw on about 11 to 12psi, stock motor and regular 98 fuel. No other turbo comes close on this low amount of boost. The turbo is designed for 17psi and that should reap about 270 to 280rwkw. Awesome turbos. My dad drove my car today for the first time since the mods and he came home and was like "your car is shit crazy now... I love it". He still thinks my old r33 sounded better but loved the performance of this car.

His idea of the electric fan is a good idea. I was thinking about having it belt driven yesterday when I read the initial idea. I don't think it will work. These turbos spin at 100000krpm. Our engines do what, 7? On idle the turbo will already be outspinning the engine...

The brake light isn't activated until the brake pedal is pressed and when it is pressed there is a lower resistance resistor there to restrict less current. The tail light light stays on but when the brake light comes on, it is allowing more current/voltage through to give it the extra brightness. I tried this today with my R33. There is no way the lens is coming off the damn thing. There is nothing to grab, no where to jam a screw driver into to lift the lens up after heating it. The glue is soft but still wont come out. I even tried putting something through the bulb hole to push it up and it felt like something would break before it pops out... Need more details about removing the lens... Or if anyone figures it out, post a method up.

Will it be controllable? Can it be turned on and off or a fixed feature?

Its definitely not something for all users but there will almost definitely be a market for it out there. If he can make something like this which can be somehow controlled, by a valve or something, to switch off this feature, I think there would be no one driving a skyline without it. If you can make something happen, you can control how it happens, when it happens and why it happens. A car engine was built ground up, everything that a car can do can be controlled in literally every single way. Boost, fuel, air flow, knock, lights, wipers, etc. If his intentions are to control it using something from the engine flowing or pushing something on the turbo, something similar to a wastegate, or electronic gate could control it to switch it off when it is not needed. I still think its impossible.

I see no practical way of this being possible. This would be an amazing piece of technology. How you can create positive boost on idle with the throttle shut is beyond me. It doesn't sound possible. How do you create a turbine structure capable of creating positive boost from the exhaust flow of an idle engine? The SS2 Ive got is almost like it is off when there is no load on the engine. I can rev up to 4k and control my foot to create nearly no pressure at all and when I plant my foot it comes on like a switch, but having something always creating pressure needs an opposing force. And now I am getting jealous of this new turbo you have built which could see 280-300rwkw with stock turbo response Can my turbo be modded to suit?

It would be the BIGGEST pain in the arse to DIY some intake pipe to suit an A/M turbo and the ARC box. I was going to get one and duct my bonnet but the effort required for probably no gains over my sealed box with CAI isn't worth it.

I don't know how to remove the lens out of the R33 Its got clips around the red lens which is attached to the black plastic frame. I tried to unclip them but there is no way that is gonna happen without cracking something... What does the glue shit hold? Is that the black sealant stuff or is it something else?

You shouldn't really run your sub like this. A sub is meant to differentiate the rear from the front in two separate air chambers to get the best sound. If you want just some nice bass and nothing over the top, get a pioneer free air subwoofer. Doesn't need a box and can be mounted like a normal speaker. A fair few companies make free air subwoofers but they are a little hard to find. Cheap from the US too with our current dollar.

I'd suggest maybe even get a new bottle of black window sealant from super cheap and give them a fresh coat. The stuff that is on the tail lights is really really REALLY messy. This new stuff is exactly what the old stuff is but easier to clean and just doesn't stick everywhere. You also ensure a perfect seal. Ive got a tube in the garage so I'll be giving them a fresh layer. Ive printed out this guide and going to go through my box down stairs to see what parts I do and don't have. Ive got about 200 UV LED's, 50 blue, 50 green but no damn white lol.

Brilliant write up. Half asleep right now but will be using this and doing my 33! awesome work. I think you may have some customers asking for drop in kits.

Ive still got the tail lights from my write off that I am willing to tear into to do this! Keen to see this DIY. I don't know what the insides are like but I imagine it involves alot of drilling, hot glue/silicone, soldering and swearing. Very very nice man. I would love something like this on my R33. I can't stand those R33 LED lights which have the plastic chrome cheap shit looking crap in them.

Its weird that your AC fuse is popping. Ensure your AC is off before you try start it up. Is this the stock ECU from YOUR car or did you buy it? I'm sure if you check up the numbers on the ECU against a R33 Series 2 Manual GTST on the net you can confirm if the ECU is the right one for your car.

Still a defectable item. Sure its a great piece of kit but unless you chop up your bonnet its going to be heat soaking because, well, about 100% of the filter element is exposed. Sometimes a box around a pod can get you away from a defect. Ive had a fair few dyno runs in both my cars in the past, both running pods. There has been no affect on the kw output over x amount of runs. I don't think any dyno tuner will run 20 dyno tunes with a closed bonnet anyhow. This being said both my pods were almost perfectly shielded on the engine side and had a CAI setup.

Its not one point PER defect, getting pulled over and having certain issues gets you a defect. A friend had a fair few faults with his camry, copped 8 total defects, 1 demerit point and about a $180 fine.

I agree with this. It does seem logically incorrect to assume you can run a bigger turbo with the same intake setup... Almost all aftermarket turbos have bigger intake mouths for bigger pipe setups.

As I said, I didn't read anything just commented and being from Sydney, we can cop a 1 point for a defect.

Didn't read anything but posting anyway. 1 point can be lost for almost any reason. If you buy an R34 GTR, chances are you may get pulled over and probably defected. 1 point gone.

True information here and I do agree with you. The only reason I am running a pod is because Hypergear highly suggested a 4" intake with a big pod. Best I could do is a 3" intake with a apexi pod in a box with a CAI running through the old hole for the intercooler. Since he is running a return flow, he won't have this extra hole so that puts him out of place to run a sealed box as the thing will be choking on it self...

What is the best approach to this? Just run the return line into say a 5L bucket, mark it at 3L then start the car for a minute?

Could it be that your CAS is fizzled? Have you checked to make sure the cars timing is fine? After hearing that you are shooting flames, it COULD be that you are hitting R&R which would explain the flat feeling til red line, but does not explain the splutter before 4500rpm. Your car will pull timing and dump fuel there to prevent any possible damage to the motor. Check its timing at 650rpm should be 15deg. There are too many things it could be man, you need to eliminate problem by problem with doing, as above, little temp fixes to see what gets rid of what. Tape up your coils. Check the wiring for your coils is still relatively supple. Too many issues. Your pre 4500rpm issues sounds like the symptoms of my old failing fuel pump. Be careful, if your pump is failing you could detonate your engine on a lean fuel mix. Just read this. If you are doing as you say you are, shooting flames, you shouldn't be worried about the fuel flow I don't think. You've got enough fuel to get you moving and enough fuel to catch fire and explode in your exhaust. I think its an ignition issue.