SargeRX8

I'm starting to get a VERY rich fuel smell which happens only for about 2 seconds when I start the car. Not when I prime, only start. Ive got brand new injectors seated in a fuel rail with all brand new seals and rings. There is no smell of fuel in the engine bay at all. I can smell it in the cabin for a couple of seconds. Fuel hoses are all tight and secure. I think I'm just running way too rich and some raw, unburnt fuel is making its way into the exhaust before being burnt. The power FC isn't giving me any starting issues. I too can now suggest you check your injectors. Its not hard to do. Have someone keep priming your fuel pump and just have a smell around the engine pay. Its a PITA to yank out the fuel rail, and the smell of fuel is really strong so if it is leaky I'm sure you will smell it. Your engine bay should NOT smell like fuel.

All you need is that red one to create as much torque and power as the SS2 and you will have a golden RB turbo.... but its near impossible to gain such power and maintain response. All turbos are great. The SS2 feels great to drive, for anyone considering it, don't let the graph frighten you. Sure its not the most instant thing off the lights but it is pretty awesome the way it is. I need moar booooost.

Safety cameras are a joke. Three times Ive had some dead shit infront of me who may be cruising at 60km/h SLAM their brakes as soon as the light turns yellow. One guy I saw literally, LITERALLY, drove his car at about 2km/h before the light. I said wtf are you doing? His response "I knew the light was gonna change colour soon"... Yes, they were all asian.

I'm using the QFM HPX pads. They should be suitable for the streets and not too hard either. I don't know. There must be something, the brakes aren't liking.

How can you understand anything on that site lol

1. Done 2. Done not long ago 3. Pads were new, squeeled, roughened them up, still squealing. 4. In the process of doing. They are still pretty loud as soon as they get hot. Usual driving there is nothing but anything above medium braking will make them hot and they just turn into ass. My old car with the same rotors and endless pads never squealed. We shall give them a little while more to settle in. Its been about 230km now. Ill probably just end up buying new rotors and fresh remsa pads, they sound promising.

Turn your air conditioner on, that tells the AAC to let more air in to raise the idle and keep the car on. If nothing happens then, could be your AAC. But mind you, my car did do EXACTLY what you are saying here, it starts cold first time spluters and revs just die out. As soon as we fitted a power FC the problem is gone.

Its weird lol, I feel I can go faster if I get into the next gear by 5000 - 6000rpm. I red lined first the other day and you can really feel first gear is not enough to push this turbo once its above 6500rpm so I find it more effective to ram it into 2nd gear at 6krpm and keep the continuous "pull" feeling. And to note, yes the turbo I bought was the test dummy. Never had issues with it. Shall be organising my tune up with DVS JEZ after my brakes are ready to roll and we shall see how we go on 17psi!

Ive got a 17psi actuator ready to go back on to the SS2, unless I can find a 15psi one somewhere. Once its all ready, I shall post up the results of the car with more boost. This current actuator is SHIT HOUSE lol. If anyone is buying a turbo off Tao, GET THE 17 PSI ACTUATOR!!!!!!!! This lower PSI one can't even hold 10psi. The only time I get more than 10psi is if I get.... I don't know, it just happens when it wants to. It always finds a way to taper back down too, it just can't hold. None the less, even on 9psi, Ill be snaking on the road in 2nd off a perfect launch on cool nights. The SS2 cost me I think $1340 or something. You might think its expensive but seriously, a Garrett alternative(3071 or 76) will cost you about $1700+ Then you need to buy a bunch of other shit to make it fit and get a new dump. Hypergear turbos, bolt on, tune, injectors, intake and away you go. Ill list my costs on the performance aspects related to the turbo: Turbo ATR43SS-2: $1340 Injectors Nismo 740cc: $650 Power FC(R33 Rb25DET s2): $1100 GTR Fuel pump: $80 Yellow jacket coils: $290 I think, bought off performance wise. JJR bellmouth dump(I had one but it was cracked, repairs made more leaks) $190 Genuine Z32: $100 Clutch $380 Tune $800(plus other little jobs) Intake pipe $30 Silicone stuff: $50 total Venon 5" body 100cell Cat: $230 $4400. Garrett counterpart will cost $5k+ with the parts I used above. Car came with the basics, FMIC, exhaust, boost controller. You wont regret a hypergear turbo.

Ive spent about $5k on my car and currently no V8 can keep up or get infront. I can't even launch lol.

I took ron for a drive in my car with the SS2. You should have a customer soon

Thats gonna be hard. Try TSI at blacktown, top secret imports. See if the guy there will compliance it for you, although generally they wouldn't compliance a car not imported by them. How did you manage to buy a non aus complianced car? That is fairly dodgy of the seller. They import then sell off.

Its the R33 GTST diff suited for either ABS or non ABS cars(just don't connect the ABS cable). 4.11 ratio I believe and its an LSD.

Hks mushroom pods are f**king hopeless and utter waste of money.

PM Sent. All car parts and shell are sonic silver.

Damn I wish I made this Instead I spent 3hrs painting my brake calipers then 1 hour trying to get my f**king car to take the jumper leads. Next on my bill are 4 new rotors and pads all round and a new battery. Awesome attendance, love the cars. Love the stitches on BO05TN

My car had the same issue as him, why did the problem completely go away when I fitted a power FC?

I wanted gold. The duplicolor of yellow and gold are like gold gold and a orange gold so to speak. They look awesome. Supercheap at north parramatta sell duplicolor but only have blue and purple. Ended up getting VHT, slapped on 4 coats of gold and 4 - 5 coats of clear. Looks awesome. I used VHT paint on my wheels, if they didn't chip from me hitting them with tools so often, they are still almost as shiny and black as the day I sprayed them.

I don't think I filled my post enough but what I meant was the tuner can load up the Power FC tune, and mimic the data across to the Nistune ECU. You tuned tao's car I believe, he has given me screen dumps of his timing and ignition maps to provide my tuner. Even though tao runs a Nistune, the tuner was still able to get an idea of how things were running and how to setup the tune.

Hey guys still got the following R33 GTST diff $200 R33 ABS pump $50 R33 tein adjustable shocks for rear $300 R33 Bilstein front shocks $100 Used NKK clutch and pressure plate $80 R33 Flywheel $100 R33 driver door, pretty good condition, its been kind of stripped. Take if for $50. R33 shell with the all the shit still attached to it(has fuel tank, rear hubs, rear shafts, rear subframe, tail lights, perfect condition nose/front/rad support, passenger side quater panel, other parts n shit too), stripped of most parts. Take the whole thing for $300. it is not rolling. Will swap for some parts below. The trade bit, I want to hopefully trade/buy my Sonic Silver genuine GTR spoiler and bootlid for a white counterpart. Its in top condition. They are not "attached" as I removed the GTR spoiler to fit to my white car but not keen on a respray.. I need a passenger side headlight, series 2, all clips must be in tact nothing broken etc. Brake rotors, If anyone has some nice DBA rotors or a ksport kit or something, brake related for an R33. Obviously something more than stock. I'm located in Sydney. Most parts are heavy so pref pickup. PM me

You'll see it ontop of in the intake side of the plenum towards the front. It has a yellow warning stick saying NEVER OPEN WHEN HOT. I don't think that will have any effect. My old car done EXACTLY the same thing, cold morning starts it would crank start then die after a couple of seconds unless I blip the throttle. The problem went away as soon as I fitted my power fc. I never found out what the problem was though. Its not likely to be the AAC valve faulty as with a Power FC this issue is non existant.

If I can make this, Ill be traveling to orange grove maccas at 9 from Merrylands. That is the maccas on cumberland highway correct?

It can be done but you need a nistune in your 33. That will cost about 700. Get your pfc quoted for repairs and go from there. your tuner should have your tune file.

Have you tried final stage at merrylands? Surely it can't be that hard to find a place... There are hundreds of skylines on the streets in sydney and many far from blue slip passable... Cover your pod filter that should help with that issue. Advan performance at auburn will do blue slips I think. Make sure all the safety standards/features are up to scratch as that is mostly what is checked. I wont believe that every modified skyline out here returns to stock to pass blue slip.

None of the shops at blacktown had it.