SargeRX8

Why did you need 5 regulators per light? The total draw would be about 2000ma(2amps) so maybe two of the regulators should be fine or did you divide the light into a pie and control each piece. That is 20 regulators you need...

Ive got a R33 Series 2 stock turbo. Came off my car due to upgrading to the hypergear. Was going to keep it incase I ever wanted to go to stock but the price for these doesn't go up or down so if I need one I can pick it up later. Perfect working order. No chips or dings in the rear wheel, front nylon wheel is perfect. Never blew smoke, no leaks from seals, no out of the ordinary shaft play. Truly never boost above 8psi and when it was it was not very often. Car was a daily driven lightly. Engine has 83xxx km on it. Out of a 1996 model. Includes the turbo, the elbow thing, wastegate and what other little bits I might have(probably nothing or not much) The wastegate MIGHT be leaky, I DONT KNOW FOR SURE. It was holding boost just you could hear a tsss coming from near the wastegate. Did not affect performance. Located in Sydney $370 delivered. $350 pickup. Also have a standard R33 S2 diff and ABS pump Diff $200 ono abs pump $80 PM me.

Doesn't stop the towies.

I emailed him, he didn't give me a response but said he responded to Joel. What did he say? These defect stations, haven't been in action lately. Not that I have seen. The last one I saw was about 3 years ago.

I have this exhaust, its awesome stuff. Will you sell the HKS sticker alone?

I can build a current regulating circuit(Ive built a few in the past using a couple resistors, pots, LM317T). When I build the circuit using these parts, the LM317T is used instead to regulate current, rather than voltage. They support up to 1.5A so I should be able to feed them. The only problem is the where do I place them and is it the current which affects the brightness or the voltage? I think for the sake of just building this and getting it done, Ill just use 5mm's because all the parts are tested and tried for.

I don't think you understood what I meant. These are EPA setup stations. Police bring in drivers, EPA pulls out the book for your car and gets you down for everything not standard. You will cop a fine for running a cat not meeting standards, not a fine for running NO CAT at all. That is the difference. Its a grey area. They have hoists to get cars up. Ive seen one setup on james ruse drive near rose hill. Not a pretty site.

You may not be aware but in Sydney they often have defect stations. Little outposts setup by police where police will pull import cars and other cars on the street into these stations, put them on a hoist and defect everything not standard.

Approved?? What you mean?

I know someone copped a 1700 fine for no cat. About 3 years ago, he had a decat on a civic. LOL.

To compensate for this, I am using some fat heater hose suitable for about 45psi, to return the BOV output. It seemed way too fiddly to get metal to metal fittings to line up. I would pay though to have a proper all metal intake pipe made.

It was pretty easy. Open the fuel cap and determine if you need to seal it. The metal thing which you put the fuel filler into, and the thing you screw the cap into, comes out. Mine came out WITH EASE. There was literally nothing holding it in place. I pulled it out and cleaned it up with a wire brush and screw driver(when you get it out you will see gunk and shit around the inner lip which holds to the tube you pulled it from). Get some gasket goo stuff which is suitable for use on parts which handle petrol. When you pull the metal thing out of the car and flip it up side down, there is like a U ridge. Fill the U ridge with your gasket goo stuff(I used permatex form a gasket). Apply some to the black tube in the car. Be careful not to drop shit into your fuel tank. Let it set til its tacky then insert it back in, push it down and put your fuel cap back on and let it dry. I drove the car about 1hour later. I didn't want to open the fuel cap to see if it worked so I wanted til the next day and the seal was set. Took the lid off PSSSSSSH. I'm gonna drop a full tank in there today and see if it has any effect on fuel economy at all. Currently do about 240 - 280 a tank but never let the car fuel gauge drop to the E. Absolutely no more smell of fuel in the cabin!

I can't get these damn R33 lights apart there is no WAY I can see to get them apart. I heat it up for 15 minutes in 100c oven and no matter where I try to wedge anything in to pull off the red lens, I can just hear it cracking. I think I have to give this tut a miss Edit: Never mind! I f**king done it! The R33 lights are a bitch because it is one piece. What I done was heat it for about 18 minutes on 100c(fan OFF). When it came out I put a blunt object into the rear of the tail light where the globes sit and slowly pushed it out. I already broke most of the retaining clips so it just came out, you might have to pry them back to get the lens to come out. Now to design up the pattern, print it out and make my template! Where do I source these superlux LED's? Ebay good enough? Did you build the current regulator your self or is there already a kit out there to control an array of these LED's. Do you just replace every regular LED with these superlux leds? http://www.ebay.com....=item33458982de This looks alright. 15000mcd brightness, 12 - 15v. All I would have to do is wire them up and drop them with a fuse and a potentiometer so I can control their brightness... But looking at what you have used, seems more technical... Care to elaborate on the parts used etc? What pattern would you do for an R33? Would the R34 big light be suitable for both lights on the R33? Or just a single ring of LEDs?

Problem solved! Resealed it, fit it back in and PSSSH everytime I open the lid and no more fuel smell in the cabin! I wrote up a tutorial but it never came up. Probably didn't get approved.

Exactly this. That Catco cermaic cat is a piece of arse, My old skyline which when tuned was making close to 250rwkw had one.... and it was gutted. Doesn't that tell you something? They bought the cat to get a high flow cat, realised its a restriction, then bashed it because they wasted money on one cat and deemed it a shit idea to buy another one. Its flow rate isn't too great, I recall about 450 - 550cfm. These 100cell metal cats flow close to 700 - 800cfm. You are paying close to $200 for it delivered. Why not pitch in an extra $30, and save an extra $130, get a 5" full venom cat. Having a bigger cat is not going to harm the system at all. If anything you are allowing for future modifications. Spend once, rather than burn money on a cat you will change when it starts glowing red and the ceramic insides come shooting out the ass. I don't care what anyone says but the better your exhaust flows, the better your car will perform and the longer your turbo may last because of the better exhaust heat removal.

To create the explosion, you need fuel, air and spark. You have fuel and spark...

Bigger is better. I didn't buy this cat to pass emissions, I bought it to get high flow without running no cat. Some cat is better than none. There are a couple out there which are approved but I don't think they are 100cell. Think about it. If nissan could have made a 100 cell metal cat which is legal, don't you think they would have? I've still got my stock cat with me just incase. With that said my old skyline has a gutted cat(i had no idea) for about a year. I didn't draw attention to my self so never got into shit for it.

Can you get some google maps of meeting points and the route? Will it just be F3 driving?

What the f**k? That is a joke right? When you install a fresh clutch on fresh flywheel and fresh pressure plate, there is no clutch material on either surface and dumping the clutch on second will really have a high chance of riding the clutch and burning it before you've even driven on it. Sure after 250 - 500km bed in, give it a dump but not right off the bat.

You want to know what is funny? Ive been watching conspiracy videos on youtube, reading about it, hearing stories etc for a few years.. This was planned to happen. America will fall into debt, the world economy will follow, shit will just go haywire then some shit is gonna happen with staged events going on to fool the world into some other crap. Watch this video, then watch some suggested videos. http://www.youtube.c...h?v=5sBO7-Wv82Y Coincidence ended a LONG time ago. http://www.youtube.c...h?v=EyuyeIVbwOM

I have no idea about half the things you just spoke of... What signal is the power fc unit seeing? Is the power FC doing all these conversions and calculations from the sound signal? Surely its not up to the ECU... Maybe I can intercept a wire to the ECU to read something from... I don't know. I was just fiddling around before, on idle if I rev to about 5k the knock bar on the power fc won't sit still. It must be picking up noise. As soon as I back off the throttle it jumped to 10. It jitters around 2 - 3 constantly. I can't replicate this knock hit...

I got the five inch venom

I got quoted $900 for a full once over, $1500 if I wanted my timing belt changed too and $1900 if I wanted my injectors cleaned. Told them to stick it. I changed all fluids my self, flushed radiator etc all round then had the car on a dyno. They told me the power, tweaked my power fc and told me it was safe to go. $90 spent on the dyno run and tweak. When you move to Skylines, there are alot of things you can DIY to save money to pay for things you can't DIY!

Well as some of you may know, my car hasn't been making the psssh sound when I go to fill up. Everytime I started up the car, I got the fuel smell in the cabin. DVS JEZ suggested its the fuel filler, the little gold thing the fuel cap screws into. Well today, I started up my car and saw the fumes of the fuel escaping from the fuel tank. This is not only a problem, but also a very dangerous one at that. Had a smoker been walking past, those fumes are sure to take a flame. I don't have photos now but it is a very straight forward thing to do. I can get some pics etc. What you need: Gasket goo stuff(as long as its fuel resistant, it should be fine). Wire brush Flat head screwdriver 1) Pop off the fuel filler cover and remove the fuel cap 2) The metal fuel filler mechanism is simply, its just a cap holder with a metal flap. I didn't need anything special to remove mine, I simply grabbed the edges, jiggled it and it came right out. If yours does the same then this is a clear indication the damn thing is not sealed! 3) Use the screw driver and wire brush to clean off the dirt and crap under the lip of the fuel filling thing you just removed. The wire brush removes light stuff while the screw driver is good to get into the little nooks and dig that shit out of there. 4) Once that is clean, try to clean the lip that is still on the car, the black hose leading to your fuel tank. I was abit worried about doing this and dropping shit down into the tank so I just made sure to clean the outer edges. 5) Depending on the gasket stuff you've got, apply a nice amount in the lip on the metal piece you removed, on the inside(you will see what I mean, its like a U on the inside which I filled with gasket stuff). Then if necessary apply some to the black tube under the filler cover. 6) Let it set until its tacky 7) Push it back in. If I recall, the spring valve mechanism sits in with the spring on the top. Just remember the orientation when you removed it. 8) Let it dry a little then screw the cap back in and let it set. 9) All done! Let it dry and away you go! Pictures can be posted up if needed!

Ill chuck something up in the tutorial section now!