SargeRX8

Power wise it was fine, filtration wise, it wasn't sealing. Tightened nice and tight off the car it was still not sealed. Their gaskets are shit, maybe its just old age but there is no way this thing was sitting flush against my z32. A gap big enough to slide paper in is big enough to let in trouble. I found traces of dirt and shit between the gasket and the Z32.... Fault of mine? Hardly. These gaskets are shit.

I made my own one out of thicker rubber and sealed it with silicone for now. When I decide to get the turbo repaired, I will rip it off again and use another rubber silicone with epoxy to make it more permanent. f**king piece of shit. It could be heat or just old age which caused the gasket to give way. The finest bits of dirt must have got in there. The original gasket with the apexi was shit and is shit. It was on there nice and tight. The bolts are a good length, I can go out there and tighten it even more but its probably more than tight enough as it is. Just abit of f**king bad luck. There must have been 1 mm of twist or play or something which raised the gasket on the long part of the AFM. At least it didn't f**k my AFM. The car still runs, holds and moves as fast as it ever did and really if I didn't look into the turbo I wouldn't have any idea something was wrong. Ah well. More money into this money pit.

I changed my intake pipe yesterday, it is full metal, one bend. My apexi was not seeking perfectly flush against my z32, you could fit a piece of paper in the gap, maybe more and thus dirt got into the intake and damaged my turbo wheel.

Love this idea here, Gonna give this one a go but rather than make a wall in front of the pod(where the headlight is) ill leave it open so air can come through the head light area.

Simon is making 500+hp on a stock motor? Misfiring could be caused by many things but it seems you've tried the basics. I will be keeping an eye on this thread to see how it progresses. Keep us posted. What I would suspect is the spark plug or coil back. Next would be wiring. Next would be CAS(could be playing up?) Sounds electrical to me. My car had similar symptoms on startup. It would sound like its missing a cylinder or even two and after a few seconds they all kick in, my spark plugs were on their way out. Try gap your plugs closer see if that gets rid of the misfire.

I wouldn't get a foam filter. When you think about them, they will have a path all the way through and dirt will eventually find its way through. A pod filter is the same as a panel filter just round. Mine is shielded properly from the engine and has a top cover too with a pipe from underneath to the front bumper.

If I am bothered to, Ill fit mine back into my GTST and take pics. Its pretty straight forward. Pulling it out, its like a puzzle, it only comes out one way and you will figure it out. Installing it is the same, only really fits properly one way.

Its a rubber gasket piece thing, I added my own silicone shit to it to seal it off completely. Really bodgy the design of these screws. You've got metal thread held lightly in plastic.... Seriously. Who else noticed the spelling mistake on FANNEL on the apexi filter? I had two of them both had the same typo. Now I see some using FUNNEL. Did they correct it or are these fake units? Most of the fake shit on eBay is listed as HKS style APEXI style.

Its not about how fast you can go its about how fast you can get there. Hitting 200km/h in a DE, the turbo counterpart can probably hit 200, stop, then do it again in the same amount of time. That said some dick I know has a Yaris, he used to do M4 driving at 180km/h, smooth as f**k lol.

You might be onto something here Nissan did spend alot of money but there are certainly things they could have done better... Do you think they tried and tested the RB as a non interference motor?

I dont know why or how but possibly due to heat the gap between the filter and afm was just enough to let foreign particles pass through and cause damage to my turbo, minor damage but damage none the less. I've never had issues running the standard neck style filters. Even when putting evening back together I noticed a gap between the filter and afm so I had to silicone seal it. Yes I am running a gasket. It was the standard applied one, now I made a new rubber one. Also now I over tightened it and one of the gold grommets which holds the screw is turning so f**king shit f**k. Some guy from malaysia is selling the apexi pods, new in box for 50 but sorry I dont give money to that peasant counterfeit country. Yes I am sargerx8 off gg lol, 1BAD33 now.

My Apexi has let me down. I am going to get a new pod filter. Too much talk about this 3A filter on other websites but I haven't come across much users using them with skylines. Also a worker at a auto store suggested that the 3A test were kind of bs and proven to have different results on different cars... Some filters come rated with a max hp rating and what not. I need something which will, just work for anything and need something that will filter. Anyone have any suggestions? I am verily considering a arc box... Please dont close this and ask me to search, I have and most people are talking about the using stock air box with a good panel. I don't want to use my stock box. Also the people in the Rb25 dyno thread all say pod filter, not many are specific...

I can't imagine the pipe work. If its electrical it would be hard to setup and it is going to have to be designed VERY well and suited to each engine. Too many factors. The more boost you run means more fuel means bigger combustion means more exhaust, what if this thing can't suck the exhaust as fast as the engine is shitting it out? It would end up being a restriction. What if it spins too fast and creates a vortex of turbulence against the exhaust wheel of the turbo... Or maybe it can assist in spinning the exhaust wheel and creating faster spool time.

Sydney. Calipers MAY be sold will confirm in a day or two...

You must have it all wired wrong. What you can do is get a 9v battery and with the car off connect it to what you suspect are your speaker wires(make sure the deck is unplugged). You should hear a pop in the speaker. If you do not hear a pop then you are not connecting the right wires. Are your speakers wired to your head unit or are they connected to an amp? Did you connect any RCA cables? By the sounds of it, it sounds like your speakers are connected to an amp and you are just not giving the amp the power wire(its blue I think, just double check, blue white is usually antenna power). If they are amped up, make sure the RCA's are connected and you are giving it amp turn on wire. Any non f**k around audio shop will do this job for $60. Unless of course they need to run new wires to every speaker which isn't likely.

This is what I done when I couldn't get my car to start. Flooded the engine with fuel so it was NEVER going to start so let it dry pump to blow the fuel out then wired it back up and it started. Jez tuned my car and when he did he said that my injector MS was set to 0% on my pfc and that this *could* cause issues with starting/idling I think. With that said, since my fuel mix was sorted(I was rich rich rich), I have not had any starting issues. I know the experience of getting broken down far from home. My dads cars starter motor failed on me when I was at penrith, same car failed on me when I was at work, this car wouldn't start when I was out with my lady(rich tune wet the f**k out of my sparks and pistons). Wet is good, too wet is too much fuel which can foul plugs. Have you tried new plugs? If its not tune related, it must be hardware related and the plugs are what I would look at first. Failed starts will generally keep squirting fuel into the engine I believe and if you don't get it to start it could foul shit up.

Hes up near penrith off mulgoa rd. Great guy to deal with.

My old brakes never had any noise, my old rotors were fine too. Only as soon as I fitted these HPX did I ever get noise. Its the pads, they are just too hard I think. I had about 3000km on mine, re-machined my discs now about 1000km on them, no difference. Kind of frustrating when you read the awesome reviews people give products then you buy it on their word only to find it just doesn't work. Hate buying stuff twice, kind of not really fair. gotRICE, Ive been there and done that. Sanded them back when I got my rotors done. I went for some driving, started off with medium braking, could barely get onto hard braking because of the noise but I did it and it didn't do shit. Yes my pads were smoking too. Ive got other temporary pads going back in tomorrow. No idea what they are but they have a slit in the middle which is something the HPX pads are missing(interestingly), which might help in getting rid of dust and heat.

Get a new one, once that shit kinks its kind of a bitch to work with. Not expensive from Nissan.

What's needed to make this work? All parts off the stock plenum or new parts?

Can someone tell me what all these parts are? I know you have a piston but I hear stuff about ring lands, crowns and all this stuff. I know the piston ring must be a seal around the thing but what are the other parts of the piston? Does the top of the piston have a specific name?

It has all the wiring and what not. It's kind of DIY but it has 3 wires which connect directly into the engine loom(I can find out which collie wire for you). Send me a pm I'll get you pictures of the actuator, wiring and control face. Be aware this isn't the new tech hybrid stuff which cost a pretty penny, this is kind of old tech stuff it's still dual stage hi low but doesn't have the bells and whistles(gain control, LCD etc) just a simple ebc which does what it does! Hence the awesome price, even a manual boost tee cost more!

You don't happen to have a metal intake pipe, do you?

My O ring was crimped in my tank and not sealing, I got a faint petrol smell from that but what gave it away was the f**kload of fuel leaking from it. If your O ring is not sealing then it WILL leak when you fill the tank to full. Check out my repair guide in DIY section, its easy to find out if its the fuel cap. All fuel will expand and build pressure so it will go pssh.

Bump guys, $400 for the bonnet.