SargeRX8

I just went for a drive, this problem almost certainly only happens when the car is warmed up... I never usually do this but after a minute or two of warming up I gave it just enough to create 0 boost and vacuum and backed off the throttle and it didn't stall nor come close to it. Once it was warmed I done the same thing again and it almost stalled(rpm was about 300 maybe 400). I went to buy carby cleaner to clean up the AAC as I think my issue may be there. From what I may have read somewhere, the AAC does not have any role until the engine is warm. Is this correct? I'm going to check all my lines while the engine cools down a little now. The PFC shows THRO. If that is the same thing then yeah I kept an eye on it(dangerous shit lol) while driving slowly giving it petrol and it would slowly and consistantly rise from 0.35 and I saw it get to 0.88 before I had to start watching the road. There was no erratic change in numbers. Very linear.

On the pfc I'm assuming this is labelled thro, if so idle is constant 0.35v. Didn't check when I give it throttle but I will today. I'm going to clean my aac and spend some time looking for split vac lines...

Sorry mafia but I am agreeing here... My old r33 with the pfc hated the blocked bov and stalled every time. This car I got now, when it was stock, never stalled and it came with an atmo which I then swapped top a stock blocked bov fluttering day and night without an issue. Even now after jez tuned my car I had my bov blocked and it was awesome. Just a couple of days ago.I've began stalling even with the plumb back bov running... I've got a vacuum leak or my aac is hating life.

I've got a pfc so that consult port is useless I think. But on my pfc controller my timing is 15 degrees at idle which is normal. In all honesty its the stalling when clutching in between gears which is a problem and I feel the two issues are related because both started happening at the same time...

The intermittent pop is more often than not referred to as the lean pop. I think I'm going to buy a wideband. I tested it with the stock afm and same issue but that doesn't rule it out. It would be odd though that my afm is causing issues under no load... But I do hear an electronic buzz under the bonnet... I need it checked out...

New bov return had no effect on lean popping... Something is throwing out the tune. It can't be the weather because it happens on warm days and even cold nights... I very much doubt it's misfiring. There is no effect at all when under load just idle and cruising low rpm...

Wouldn't Nismo make some drop in injectors for the Neo motor? If so I'm sure you can find a set of 555cc Nismo's which will do nicely. The Standard is what, 370cc, the GTR is 440cc(I think). If you're maxing your injectors and you don't really plan to upgrade in the future then 555cc injectors should be sweet. I got Nismo 740cc injectors and with a SS2 hypergear turbo, I rarely see more than 50% duty cycle on them even on full boot.

Yeah, literally haha. Such a weird problem. It seems only to happen when warm and only on idle. Anyway I fixed up my shonky BOV return pipe(it was a piece of heater hose, had 3 kinks in it which got worse lol) by putting in a few PVC 90 degree bends here and there. Got a nice pipe with no kinks. Started the car up and it sounded very smooth. Temps were around 61C. I didn't want to get ahead of my self but it did sound alot better. Switched it off and will test it properly with more fuel in the tank as I head out to work shortly. Spoke with DVS JEZ on the phone. He suggested I add some latency to my injectors(16ms). It made a huge difference in the smoothness of idle but didn't really help with the lean popping. It seemed to work but what looks to have happened was it pushed the lean popping pattern higher up into the rev range. It wasn't popping much at 2krpm but more so at 3500 etc. Hopefully this pipe has some effect on it which is a positive effect and hopefully it eliminates my stalling when clutching in. Two skylines drove past today while I was working on the car and both were lean popping when cruising lol, maybe I am just being too fussy.

What is the one way valve you speak of? The Greddy boost controller kit comes with the control module, inline filter, a dual stage solenoid and other little bits and pieces. Ive been running mine like that for 2 years on 2 different cars without a problem. Greddy manual doesn't say anything about it either.

This would be very appreciated. Are you free this sunday? I can bring it to you then as I need help because I just fitted the new fuel pump and no luck. Issue seems evident (the popping issue) after the engine is above 45c. new spark plugs go in tomorrow as well as examining more vacuum lines

Those pipes are smooth but they do have some crazy angel on the return pipes., my old pipe on my old car just wasn't working. this pipe was fine. it probably isn't reversion because I did disable the bov. It seems like a leak somewhere. Anyhow I am installing a 040 now. Lets see how we go.

Haha the pringles pipe is not ny actual pipe, it is what I made the dummy fit pipe from as it is easy to cut and 3 inch in diameter. Now help me fix my stalling problems!

I'll be fitting the fuel pump in tonight if I can. Grounding this pump didn't fix it and it seems I'm stalling after boost and clutching in. I've even blanked off my bov incase I was having recirc issues and no luck. Also noticed my fuel cap was so pressurised it was hissing when closed... How do you pin point a intake leak?

I needed a pump asap. I ordered a 040 new but it took its time to come so I found a wrecker selling the gtr pump on saturday. I needed the car asap. I'll ground it today and see how she goes. I'll then adjust my intake setup double check for leaks then test the stalling. Luckily I'm on last quarter fuel.

Well I pulled off my old intake to measure up a newer new one. Attached are the pics below. The bends are two roughly 45 degree bends with some angling done to face the side of the car. Since these are two 45 degree straight cuts, will this pose an issue? I see some people using curvy bends while mine is a sharper bend. Ive attached some pics so you can see how it looks. It was awesome too, the pringles container is exactly 3" awesome piece of tube to have to measure up some piping, easy to cut, tape together and measure! Anyway, after I measured it and put the car back together with the old pipe, 3 times today my car switch off when clutching in after coming on boost. To ensure I am on the right page, is this an indication of boost leak or a vacuum leak? If it was a leak under boost, I would be blowing smoke because I am not breathing enough air. But it stalls after clutching in... I do not run an atmo BOV and my current intake pipe never had any recirc issues where the BOV line affected the AFM(its facing the turbo on the return and is after a bend. I haven't pulled it apart again but everything looks tight. The car was not stalling before.... It was also not lean popping. Now it appears when I am on idle and try to hold say 2500rpm in neutral, it will splutter and pop. This is NOT evident when driving but when I clutch in and the engine revs down to idle it splutters. Could all these problems be related to a vacuum leak? I didn't have time to check it out as I just got back from work. I hope my fuel pump isn't failing again. I am sick of going into that damn tank. I can hear it priming and under full boost the car drives brilliantly. It seems just under tiny tiny load(like the throttle JUST touched) when cruising, and more evident when in neutral. In the pictures, the metal bottom of the pringles tube is facing the turbo.

Was that you? Teach me to do that but for f**k sake there were too many people around and they looked at me like I was gonna be a dickhead too.

From what I can see it looks like an turbo which has 3 motors which will control a "gearbox" to directly drive the turbo when there is no load. What I want to understand is when you will disengage the gearbox. I'm going to assume there is some clutching system or mechanics to seperate the gearbox from the shaft of the turbo to let the turbo spin freely once its taken off, but when will you tell it to let go? Maybe you can have a boost sensor and when the car reaches 6psi after the TB it will tell your unit to disengage. I'm sure you have this all figured out though.

Saw a chap on his green P's driving a stagea. All I could hear was spooling everywhere.

On the way home from liverpool area. On woodville road.

Free bump, gearbox mount sold to me! Will be making payment tonight!

Yeah actually after reading it seems the KU36 aren't too flash in the rain, and being a RWD the front does most of the control work in the rain. Right now Ive got continentals up front but they are starting to get old and dry. My rears I'm running forceum or some shit. They have a really deep wells, the rubber isn't too hard and they aren't so grooved and cut up so have alot of surface area to maintain contact with the road... It could be something up with my suspension, when I am taking off in first, I get alot of shudder and it feels like my arse is bouncing. I don't know how much the front suspension affects the rear but my rear is softer than my front(My fronts are teins which feel like driving on bricks). Too much shit to change, not enough money.

Dammit I really don't want to change my tires again at the back, Ive got brand new tires there. I need two new front tires though so Ill probably chuck some KU36 tires up there. Ive got bilstein shocks with standard springs on the rear so it does squat and not too hard so should have some traction. I drive like a bitch most of the time so maybe my tires were still cold. If I should be using my right foot to control boost, why did I fit a boost controller and a whole setup to control boost. I can flat foot it one day and hit no more than 16psi. Flat foot it the next and hit 19psi. Just today I was driving down heathcote road and low boost crept to 15.5psi. Felt sweet though. Maybe the metal around the collector is too thin and thus getting hotter?

I just had something embarrassing occur and if you are a member here, you are an absolute tool haha. Some silver R33 pulls up out of no where fangs it past me then stops at the light infront of me. Mind you there are a bunch of cars around, he revs the f**k out of it and does a full power launch. Number plate was BMW 53 or BWM something. Really what was the purpose of what you did? Just up the road some you guy in a bus stop yelled out to me, complimented my wheels, asked which motor was in my car and gave me a thumb up. I gave him a rev and he complemented the sound. Also just passed my pink slip, new rego tomorrow.

530nm according to that calculator. According to my dyno sheet my tractive force is 1340 lb or something at 132mph. And just because that AMG has that much torque doesn't mean shit. There are a bucket loads of cars which will deal out more power than that mercedes for no where near the price they ask for that car. What is your point? My brothers rotor makes close to 900rwhp cost 30k. You can get a 2jz spend some money on it and get massive power and torque. Doesn't mean shit when you point out the amg. If the above calculator is right then cool, my car is only down 100nm of torque and doesn't have a engine which probably weighs more than my car.

I think my brother is going to this, if he does I will too.