SargeRX8

I have no respect for bogan drivers, I am sorry. I find Jap car drivers much more respectable drivers. I often cop abuse from the bogan drivers. If anyone tried to spit at my car though, I will probably lose my temper pretty badly or throw tools at them. If I see someone who has respect for my car Ill give it a little squirt. Ill admit as a fellow skyline driver, I have came near skyline drivers who drive worse than a f**king grandma. You drive a skyline and in all honestly you do have SOME reputation in the car you drive. If you don't like what comes with driving a skyline, then maybe it isn't for you. You drive a tuner on the streets of Sydney. What the hell could you honestly be expecting. Just today I had a work van tailgate me from liverpool to guildford. I had to give it a hit to get away from him only to have him catch up and have his car smell like it was on fire. Some people I understand... Some I don't. If you are a fellow skyline driver and you are next to me, give it a little squirt. I have no interest in racing you but I would love to hear what your car sounds like. Don't be so boring.

I exaggerated a little, its closer to 670nm. What good is a dyno if it can't read proper figures? No one can tell me there is going to be a massive difference from the readout to an actual engine figure. If this is the case, why is the kw or hp anything to go by?. It was on dyno with two people in the car and about 50 - 60kg of led in the boot, two straps holding it underneath and still we were losing traction on the dyno. Tao made close to 600nm on with the same turbo in his car on a hub dyno. I'm making about 300rwkw.

Happened to me at only 10psi in my old car. As soon as I hit boost 2500, it comes on nice and hard then all power and torque vanish after about 4500rpm. Its flat shit the whole way. Don't usually see too much smoke from a stock ecu. Wait til you go aftermarket, this BMW driver was swearing his nut off after tailgaiting me then me planting it and shitting black shit all over him.

His socks are probably still wet as he got off the boat into a skyline. With that said, I am guessing he squirted WD40 on wastegate flap and saying something about in neutral it goes to +10 which is probably wrong considering the nissan gauge is +7-7. You will most likely never create positive boost on the stock turbo in neutral. Your gauge is probably shit. + is positive boost - is vacuum, or negative boost if you wish.

Ive got the ATR43SS2 I run my actuator boost as low which is about 13 - 15psi(its not consistant lol) and high boost on 17 - 19psi, again not consistant. I don't know, these actuators will boost and hold fine a few times, other times they just won't hit the target. Raising my boost controller will see 20+psi. Tao said this turbo created great power with minimal wheelspin.... At these settings, I have no traction in first or second. I tried to fang it up a bridge, i was ice skating 1st, 2nd and 3rd lol.

Location? Keen on suspension. Any leaks or knocks? How many KM on them? When you say suit aussie roads, how well are they on the f**king hume highway and parramatta road? I'm sick to shit of my current teins so abit cautious when going to more teins. Are they damper adjustable?

The sound of that diff interested me but when I went to calculate the speed at x rpm with my tire config, it came up slower a slower top speed per gear with that diff... Do you mean you will get out of a gear faster or you will travel at a faster speed at the same rpm as the 4.111 diff? According to the calculator on JDM legion, ill be doing 39mph at 7500rpm with 4.363 diff and 42mph with a 4.111 diff. I don't mean to hijack but I want to understand how it all works. Does it just mean less work for the engine to turn the wheels and get out of the gear quicker?

Any luck fishing there? Whats the spot? I do a fair bit of fishing, ill go same place and park the same spot and setup a camera to keep an eye on the car to "bait" her.

What makes 180rwhp? My stock turbo skyline was making 193rwkw on 12psi and is a very quick car. How much does the M3 weigh? It is a fairly big car. Both my skylines produced more torque also. In that graph that V8 is making 259ft pounds of torque. My old skyline made close to 320ft pounds and the current one is pushing more than 500ft pounds. I'm sitting on about 700nm and that is out of a small 2.5L 1.3 ton car. And I don't just peak that torque

Just wait for a Eflex car to get written off then find it in the local scrap yard then harvest the sensor.

She is alright with it, kind of, but then again my driving is probably fairly bitchy compared to most haha. Last night came back on rive road from mosman, its a pretty average drive but has some nice little turns and a nice dip into the valley with a nice S climb. Was great fun. Did break traction going up that hill in 2nd and it was a little nerve racking but f**king fun at the same time. I want to ask though, if these turbine housings get as hot as you all say they do then why the hell is anyone here worried about heatsoak from the engine into a pod filter?

Ill be driving from the tops down to stanwell park beach this week with my lady, gonna be fun!

But how long can it stay red hot before boiling your brake lines which run behind it, before it weakens etc. I wouldn't feel comfortable in my car if I knew my mani was going to glow red after a few hard pulls.

Shit, that is way too much heat on the manifold. It might be fine for a few pulls but how is that going to last on a track or drift? Is it necessary to run the stainless manifold with that turbo? Heat wrap that thing, at least you won't be able to see it then lol.

Another guy on here running a GT35 on an unopened motor, 25psi 475rwhp, 3 years. All depends on your driving. As a daily driver it will last. To OP, as others have said, it won't start with those injectors. AFM you can get it working in the PFC, same as injectors if you know how to set them. It will be driveable to get to a tuner. I drove my car with my Z32 and SS2 turbo to the tuner then had them fit the injectors in.

I had a aftermarket atmo bov, plumbed back. It sounded nicer, even on plumb back, than the stock one and I could control the spring tension and get minor flutter on low boost. Unfortunately it doesn't fit my current setup but that is my next job to complete. I hate the atmo sound but love the plumb back style venting coupled with abit of flutter. I don't give two f**ks what people would think anyway of my car. When I bought my car it had an atmo, ran perfect. Never fouled plugs. Hated the sound so just had to wait a while to get the stock piece back on. Its his car and he can do what ever he wants for it. Sure a BOV will attract attention, but did you forget that exhaust? That turbo spooling sound? The 4 round lights on the back of your car? You drive a skyline, its cop magnet enough. I had an undercover tell my brother that he "really wanted to get that skyline". My brother asked why, "its a skyline". I wasn't low, my exhaust isn't loud, I was driving 40km/h in a 40km zone. Simple as that, you drive a skyline. Lay of the guy. What if he asked something about installing new injectors and the ECU wasn't setup so shit wasn't right. You can't give him shit. Its his car and he can do what HE wants. To me the biggest wanker factor are people who act like wankers about people peforming wankery on their car. Actually the biggest wankers are those who fit speakers on the outside of their car.

Get your boost controller out of there, with a full exhaust your car should not boost more than 10psi. Those are 7psi actuators and with an aftermarket dump pipe should see them run between 9 - 10psi. You use a boost controller to RAISE boost, not lower boost. You cannot lower boost below the actuator spring level. To get the lowest possible boost you can out of your turbo and actuator setup, run no boost controller. I always had my boost controller off with my old setup, even at 1% would see it on 10psi. No boost controller generally saw 8psi on my series 2 r33 stock turbo and actuator.

How much do you want for it?

They aren't for series 2 with built in igniter, hence the price.

You want mine? $60 to your door. I took it out because its a noisy piece of shit. Yes I said it, short shifters are noisy pieces of shit. If you can't hear it you're deaf. Its a solid piece of metal and it can and will bring up all sorts of gearbox noise and vibrations. Done it on both of my cars. The throw is f**king awesome but I couldn't stand the noise... Oh and the excess wear it puts on your syncros. I think I could go from first to second gear faster than automatic.

A few of my first set of yellow jackets failed in a week, but they are local and replaced under warranty took only 2 days. Much cheaper than Spitfire and to this day haven't had any issues with them, even two seperate times of dyno work of about 3 - 5 hrs and they were still great performers. They are cheap to buy and have I think 2 years(or life time I cant remember) warranty!

Compression test is a good test but its never definite. If you are even one turn loose there could be that tiny bit of air leaking giving an off reading. As you also stated, the could be carbon build up in a particular cylinder which will raise the pressure as it will technically be taking up its own volume in the cylinder. I spent about an hour today with my brother on his car trying to get it started for the first time. That whole hour we were adjusting and working on timing. It would crank and crank, give fuel, crank some more but never start. When we started getting timing close you could hear it sputter and try to start, a little more and bam it ran. I would suspect its your spark, some how, for some reason not igniting. Compression seems solid which would mean both the block and head are in working order mechanically. It takes 4 things to run an engine, spark, air, fuel and compression. You've got compression.... What are you missing? Be careful when fiddling with your spark, I don't know if it can occur during cranking but pre ignition wouldn't be good.

I can get pictures but its not going to be step by step as its kind of all sealed up. Ill see if I can unseal the filler in my old car and get pix.

I found a trail of shit in between the gasket and the pod. There was some sand in there and other debris. The weld was done from the outside and all slag was removed.

Have the car fitted with an air tank for storing 100 litres of air at 300psi, then have nozzles in the intake and at the lights with closed throttle unleash 100litres of air into the intake on take off. Instant boost! Then pull up in your nearest petrol station and fill it up again! FREE!