SargeRX8

The intake pipe from performance wise is too small, its a 2.5" to 3". I made my own one, I'm going to make a new one. Its measured up just need to cut and get it welded. Its gonna have straight cut bends(none of that fancy lobster welding) but all bends will be 3" minimum. Scotty, if you ever have to build a intake pipe for an SS2 turbo, I might be keen on one if its for an R33. Almost certain the pipe will be the same across the board, so if you can somehow blueprint your design, you can help other people in other states! I run rubber oil breather and BOV return lines so I am flexible with the location of these ports. I will be building this new pipe and hoping for the best that it removes the barrier on my car. MAYBE, just MAYBE it was a low dyno read out but the fact that another chap with an SS1 I think(not sure which turbo he had) made 259rwkw on the same day on the same dyno. I should make more. I don't feel like I am losing boost at all, anywhere so that isn't the issue. It must be my intake restricting air flow...

Isn't that dangerous lol. What should or shouldn't happen?

It has ethanol content which will affect the way it burns. Maybe though it could be used, tuned and give better results than regular unleaded... And its probably more readily available

Sacrifice performance for it. A 3" metal pipe to the box should be alright

Not yet, its only when the car is warm it lean pops. Please man if you got any ideas let me know.

The amp needs 3 things. Positive, ground and a turn on wire. If you don't have a multimeter, disconnect your amp turn on wire(the blue wire) and then bridge the positive fat cable on the amp to the amp turn on wire port. The amp WILL turn on if and only if you are getting power through your power cable. If the amp is NOT turning on, either A your fuse on your power line is gone, B your power cable is poorly connected to your batter or C the ground cable is poor. Its as simple as that. The amp will turn on if all these are covered. If it DOES turn on, try it again with the amp wire from the deck. If there is no luck, pull out your deck and make sure the turn on wire hasn't come apart. If it still does NOT turn on, get a multimeter or a test light and stick it between the deck and a ground and see if there is any voltage on the amp turn on wire. If there isn't, you may have connected something wrong and blown the circuit in the deck which controls the amp wire. A fix for this(and also an awesome feature) is to get a piece of wire run from your ACC on the deck to a switch then to your amp so you can switch your amps on and off if you wish. See but everything I said up there is thrown out by the fact that your other amp turns on with the exact same wire configuration. Try as I suggested by bridging the +ve on the amp to the turn on wire port see what the go is. Another thing is some amps have power up options. Example, my amps have 3 options all controlled by a little switch on the side. Turn on via >12+v, Amp wire, Signal through RCA's. This basically means that my amp does not need an amp wire to turn on. It can be turned on when the amp detects music playing through the RCA from the head unit, it can turn on ONLY when the car is on giving a 14.4v so the amp knows the car engine is running or the main option is the amp wire. Check if your amp has this feature and what it is set at.

A smaller, more efficiently designed turbo on a small motor like an RB will be better than a larger turbo. The smaller turbo will be much, MUCH more suitable as a street, track and drift car. That lag between boost can be the difference in many things. No point having a big turbo making 320rwkw with big lag while a smaller turbo can make the same power with much less lag. That is the point I'm getting at. The OP has a stock block so you will be really pushing the motor with a 35r when something smaller can create big power with less boost. Believe me, even with full boost by 3600rpm, in 2nd gear if I am down in the rev range it feels like forever waiting for boost to come on and its sometimes embarrassing as you can hear the car wanting to come on but nothing happens. How shit would this be having to wait nearly 1000rpm more.

Oh ok, sounds about right because 3400 - 3600 is higher than 4200 yeah? You are DREAMING if you think your turbo spools faster than anything. A Garret 3076 is much smaller than the 35r and makes full boost close to 3800. 4800rpm.... By the time you hit boost its almost time to get out of gear.

Another option is to get the guts out of the z32 and put it before the bend on your intake pipe. Epoxy, silicone and cable ties will hold it in place and being pre turbo, its under vacuum not boost.

I tried to PM you but it failed, if you can PM me please. Anyway, I'm keen on the Datalogit. Does this include the software and hardware to get the output from my power fc? Does it allow me to tune it too? Ive got the standard R33 RB25DET Power FC. PM me man if the price of the Datalogit is the difference you're charging, ill take it.

Does anyone think my dyno readout seems flat at all? Note this is running the SS2 turbo. Boost can be seen at the bottom, all the lines are brilliantly straight, no dips or sags which are of a concern. Just doesn't seem to show the power it should on the dyno... I want to test restrictions as people are suggesting here. Problem is I don't have so many gauges and I don't have a dyno at home(I really can't stand doing this shit on the street, risky, dangerous, starting and stopping etc). Does anyone know if ANY dyno shops hires out their dyno or is it only some of them? The Dyno Dynamics graph is the OLD tune, the mainline is the current.

I actually made a big mistake in my input here. Ive got the SS2. This is how my situation stood and you tell ME what you think. Initially the car was tuned at Advan Performance. On 11 PSI I made 244rwkw. Very nice figure. One would only imagine more boost would mean more power, right? Took the car to DVS JEZ exactly how it came out of Advan(Note my tune at Advan was on a failing fuel pump, this was rectified). We fitted a new actuator running 13.5PSI low boost and 19PSI high boost. I read my dyno wrong, had shit confused in my brain. According to my dyno chart, I made 217RWKW on low boost(13.5psi) and 244rwkw on high boost(19psi). Anyone able to tell me how or why the hell I made such little power on the dyno with MORE boost? Yet the car feels much stronger on low boost 13.5 @ 217rwkw than it did on 11PSI @ 244rwkw. One thing to note was that when the car was tuned on 11PSI there was some big timing, almost 20 degrees in some of the big areas. Jez said this is more than likely due to the car being able to provide this much timing because it was on such low boost. We could have ran the car on more timing for low boost but we tuned the car for 19psi, not 13psi and that could be an affecting factor. None the less, I was not getting the 300+rwkw I should be getting. I will be building my new full 3" intake pipe soon and seeing if this will have an effect on the car and its output. Maybe a little dyno unhappy but if there is 60rwkw to be gained, I WANT IT! We were also not getting very good traction on the dyno with two people in the car and 50kg of lead in the boot.

I really have no idea how you get this economy. Mind you all my driving is traffic and around my area (parramatta, merrylands etc). 600km...., my mate gets that from his 11 golf gti and vw brag about the 600km fuel economy, and you guys are telling me a skyline can do it??? f**k me lol I want in! oh and with my fuel light on I only get 53L into the tank. Could have sworn r33 are a 55L tank..

Ive got the SS2 turbo from hypergear. When I first got it tuned it made 244rwkw on 11psi which was the maximum of the actuator. I took it to Jez on here to get a tune on higher boost. We upped the boost to around 13 - 14psi low boost and 19psi high boost. On low boost there was 246rwkw and on high boost there was 250rwkw. The figure seemed off. At the time my intake pipe was a half metal half rubber. Now it is fill metal but not exactly 3" the whole way(the angle was half moon removed and the pipe bent to a tighter angle, we are losing some diameter). I have a new design for my intake pipe which I need to cut and get welded up soon. I don't believe that 2psi will give a 2kw difference and a 8psi over the 11psi is only going to give 6kw difference. When I took the car for a drive on the road, there was a HUGE difference between 11 and 13 psi and a MASSIVE SHIT MY PANTS difference between 13psi and 19psi. I never even set it to 19psi(ill upload some pics today of a 13psi run on the streets). My engine is relatively healthy. I too was concerned something was wrong(now something IS wrong which we gotta fix lol). Ive had a catch can plumbed into my intake, there is not even a drop of oil in the hose leading to it. It is a sealed unit, baffled inside. Not a single trace of oil anywhere so I know I am not getting any head issues or blow by. I have not done a comp test but the car feels very strong, VERY strong, it doesn't seem sluggish and fuel economy is close to 350 with moderate throttle probably closer to 400 if I reduce throttle which may indicate the engine is not too tired yet. I am also running a quite rich tune up top to prevent any detonation as 19psi is alot of boost in a stock motor. I never dropped the exhaust to see how it goes, maybe if I get it on rollers again ill see what happens. I'm going to take it for a run at CRD see what it pushes on their dyno. Try get a compression test done. If compression is good, your block and head should be good so you can take a breath of relief knowing they are fine. You look like you've got all the supporting mods too. The dropped exhaust didn't give you any gains either so you can rule that out. Without looking at the dyno figure, how do YOU think it feels on the street? Do you feel like its not as fast as it should be? Tuning is tuning. There is no magic to tuning. Its a simple concept really, adjust your fuel ratios then give it timing. There is nothing hidden that one tuner can do and another one cant. If there is then the tuner you went to shouldn't be a tuner lol. Show some pictures of your intake setup, lets see how she looks. Hopefully this Sunday I can fix up all the issues with my car and then get a new intake pipe made.

Get a bigger rear, or get water meth injection and give it more boost and more timing!

Get a bigger rear, or get water meth injection and give it more boost and more timing!

255's won't hold on my hyper gear. But everything you said is the reason I ditched garret.

Which turbo do you have? I've got the ss2 and the feeling everytime gets me pumped. Do you run e85? Forging the motor won't give more power, only forge if it pops otherwise I'll be buying an rb30 block

I'll give a reply when I've got a keyboard infront of me!

I shit my pants on 19psi.

How much a piece? I'm definitely going to give these a shot. I would love to try a larger gap but honestly, the pain and f**king hassle of removing the plugs, adjusting gap, running high boost and checking for miss well.... a pain in the ass lol. Next set ill try a .9 gap from my .8 and see how I go. Ill pull as much timing from my tune and run it incase it decides to miss it should be cool enough not to det. Yes my car detonates on high boost if it misfires(too much compression maybe?)

If the PFC is not brand new then it may have a tune on it. Init data first to ensure any old tunes are gone. Then setup the injector settings and set it to the correct AFM. Then what I would do is pull 5 degrees of timing across the whole map. Settings and then in ignition and set adjust to -5. Car will run like shit but should be safe enough to get to the tuner. Ive experienced a stock power fc on a stock car and flogging it lol. Det heaven.

If you do, make sure you screw the filter back on after you empty the oil from it BEFORE running the engine lol. Obvious enough but just incase.

What turbo and how much boost with which coils? I run 14psi and get blown out with my yellow jackets. they have always been like that but at .8 they are fine. My coils failed on me on 19psi so I got some pretty bad detonation. I wish I can run a 1.1 gap.

Rich miss or a lean pop. Mine developed the same thing. Get your afr checked and go from there.