SargeRX8

There are only 3 people I see driving MX5's. Old men, old women and gay men.

I'm often in Liverpool. I don't trust my car in the car park of the shops, on the street or anywhere. Not even the unit where my missus lives. A car was stolen from the secured unit parking. Shit hole of an area is a f**king shit hole ill tell you that. Doubt you will see it on the streets again but I will keep my eyes peeled. Keep an eye on eBay too.

I tried PMing them again. Realized they are close to 2MB each. Got my computer now so lets do it from here! Pictures are pretty rough, I'll be pulling it all apart tomorrow for better pics of the pipe out of the car. Also just fitted a new fuel filter, just incase.

Fairly sure it is the same. Isn't the jjr dump the same for all models?

f**k the Ford sensor. It did not work for me. Throws out the tune so we disabled it. Even tuning the car around it gives poor results. The piece from kudos isn't expensive only about twenty extra or some shit.

I attached them to that pm I sent you but after checking it nowi see that didn't happen. Ill post then again here and in the pm. Your help is always appreciated man, sorry about that man.

Just checked my rail, no spacers there! Looks like it was bolted right down too f**king dodgy shit. Should I remove the bolt and fit the spacers? Or just leave it. Wow I pay these guys so much for a half ass job.

I do 0 - 100 in very low 5's with low boost, no launch, granny start(slow take off then floor it). I can probably get into very low 4's with high boost and a launch. Probably wont ever take my car to the track. Hypergear, though, is more like Garret. They develop and test turbos. Its too expensive and time consuming to have to take every turbo you build down to the tracks, get a run etc. Take it to a tuner, get the turbo fitted, dyno'd, street ran, then off it comes for a new one. Wait for customers to give the feedback on lap and track times.

Shall send you a pm shortly. Just got home and it decided to lean pop on idle now and constantly too. I might have to give that test another go. But its strange, on hotter days I've given the car harder times and idle is fine...

Pretty sure around 1200 on cold start is perfectly normal while its warming up. Skylines take close to 8 - 12 minutes to warm up to operating temperature, even more in cold nights. Winter nights I drive back from work to home at 12am. Cold nights, the car didn't even hit 60degrees after 15minute drive. Is a vacuum leak the opposite on a mafless setup? Ive got an AFM and if I have a vac leak, my idle is f**king low as shit, timing gets thrown out and its lumpy as arse shit. What I would do is disconnect everything connected to the TB using a vacuum signal(as long as they aren't necessary, the car will still operate). Or just go around the engine bay pinching thin hoses. If there is a vac leak before the map sensor, will it throw out the reading? Or only a vac leak after the map sensor? Ive never had any experience with a map based car. One would assume that if there is an issue behind the map sensor it will cause problems, after maybe not. But again, I have no idea in this field. Silly question but is your idle tune setup right? My idle tune when I am running my air conditioner results in my car idling close to 1500rpm randomly lol.Also I too have noticed, not only in my car but in a few Ive driven(manual, and not only skylines), that when you are driving and you clutch in, the idle seems higher than when the car is motionless. I have NO idea why this is. My car will idle close to 900 - 1000rpm when I clutch in then drop down to about 750 when I stop.. Its weird but meh.

If this does work, could something like this be integrated into my turbo if and when I send it back for repairs? Ah f**k, I found two of these hard spacers in my engine bay. They were sitting in the engine mount area. Could they be from my rail or something? I didn't fit them in, Advan performance did. Maybe they put new ones in, unless what ever they sit between can work without them...

I'm pretty sure you can get adapter plates to r in the stock piece, unless its going to impose a restriction...

I asked above, apparently not. Just monitor knock. if I seea station with this fuel ill give it a try.

My old high flow needed a new fuel pump, clutch, injectors and Ecu... High flow isn't a cheap way out either...

I tried it but it didn't really do anything as the lean popping is mainly when holding about 2k+rpm on idle. Will it count if I get someone in the car to hold rpm while I fill it? Pics on my phone of the pipe on the car, will upload tonight when I finish work, can't upload pictures from the phone. In regards to my fuel setup though everything is brand new except lines and regulator. Nismo injectors, Bosch pump, ryco filter..

My turbo isn't as responsive so its MUCH quieter than driving a stock r33 with a pod.

You can still get it in. I bashed one of my dumps with a hammer to get it in. You might think it doesn't fit but get an open spanner on it and it will go in. Pack alot of washers in there to close the gap earlier. I got two stainless JJR dumps and one mild steel. All SEEMED impossible but managed to get them all done after a f**kload of swearing.

Which is f**king insane hard, especially with the AFM in the way. It f**ks EVERYTHING up lol.

Check your fuel pressure, see if its up to scratch. Also you can pull out the plugs after the cranking and see if they're wet from fuel. Remember, if the fuel hits the plug for too long and is not ignited, chances are you've fouled most, if not all the plugs and the car will NEVER start. I spent a fair while trying to diagnose my car once a while back, crank crank crank nothing. Changed plugs, problem was gone.

Afm, plugs, coils/ignitor.

I can do the measuring and cutting but ill get someone else to do the welding. Also depends on the filter and if you are plumbing shit back.

This haha. There is also a chance that the clutch was still useableish but now after his beating, the clutch is cooked and glazed over like glass.

It is still connected and was replaced with a new piece as the old one broke during replacement of the injectors. I had no issues with the car until I measured up a new intake pipe. I did NOT fit a new intake pipe it. Merley measured up a new pipe then put everything back together and its been lean popping and stalling since. Also noticed my fuel cap isn't going pssh anymore and noticed fuel fumes coming from the fuel cap again ffs. Ive got my intake breather hooked up to the exhaust breather(like standard) then fron the exhaust side to a sealed catch can then back to the turbo. Below is a diagram of how shit is facing and what not.

The noise you get from leaking intake is horrendous. Its even worse when you hear a leak on the exhaust side. Broken gasket between the turbo and the dump created the weirdest screech/squeal I have EVER heard. Also how do you guys test for pressure drop? On the dyno we hooked up the boost gauge on the dyno between the manifold and fuel pressure regulator. Is this giving us the boost level at the manifold? Both my boost gauges are connected DIRECTLY to my intake manifold(one is the boost controller, the other just a boost gauge running off the BOV vacuum feed line). Should I fit one on the other side, say on the hot side of the turbo but not to the TB to monitor boost on both sides? I'm getting full boost anyhow(19psi at all gauges).

Does it cost extra? If the car is tuned on 98 octane fuel, will it be fine switching to this? Are there any risks of running this octane stuff? I have heard alot of stories of the ethanol ruining old components in the fuel setup, corroding shit, etc. Sure these cars run now but is there any negative long term effects