SargeRX8

NO idea on the conversion but I believe it won't be too hard. The drive shaft comes up through the sump so if the sump you have fits into the bottom of the RB30 giving clearance to the crank and piston rods, it should be fine. Then again you could always get a custom sump fabricated. I think the RB30 has to sit abit lower than the standard motor in your car, its a little taller so the top might contact with the bonnet. I am not certain on this but I recall something like that from somewhere, when using a 25 head. I think before outlaying money, buying motors, pistons and what not, pull the head off and see EXACTLY what is going on. If the bore isn't damaged, there is a great chance you can recover your motor with a new piston. You have great compression across the board. If your piston is cracked it will explain the surge of oil you saw. If the bore is damaged severly then its not worth it, as you will need to machine the bore. Another option if you want to leave your other cylinders in tact is to have the bore cleaned and then sleeved back to spec and use another stock piston. That way you won't affect compression. I have NO idea if this can be done but I don't see why not...

From everything Ive read, you do it warm. I am guessing this is because you cycle oil around the engine and everything is warm and as tight as it should be. Cold motor, I assume, will always give lower results.

Just wanted to share my comp test result. First time I done one and I kind of shit my pants as nothing would read past 60psi. Turns out you gotta crank for about 15 seconds as the motor seems to push the pressure up about 30psi each time it goes around. Anyway these are my results 160, 155, 160, 155, 153, 153. I don't know if 5 and 6 are of a concern but I do have to keep my eye on it all. The spark plugs looked fine. I was abit worried as the car has seen a couple of instances of +100 knock and a couple around the 90 mark. For the noobs who are doing their first comp test, be careful. The engine is at operating temp when you start so your hands are prone to being seared. Also have another car with jumper leads hooked up to your car as the battery will go fair quickly. Crank it for about 15 seconds or position the gauge so you can see it in the cabin when it stops rising. Its not always easy to position it so you can see it so when you aren't sure just crank it a few more times. Remember to disable fuel.

Don't mean to burst your bubble dude but these only cost $200 brand new off the net with free post...

People stole my indicators.... Imagine they saw these. They look sex.

Bahaha wouldn't surprise me, I get my valve caps taken all the time.

Parramatta.

I downloaded the tune and had a quick squiz at it and it does look very uniform and tidy. I can see alot of work went into the AF table too. You have email!

Why not see whats up with cylinder one? If the bore isn't f**ked, get a second hand piston because your other cylinders are holding pretty good pressure.

If I send you my tune can you have a look at it and if possible make any suitable adjustments? I am happy to $ for your work if you believe you can make a difference. It seems sloppy in the lower range. If you are able to, PM me.

What the hell. Why didn't you sell the turbo and be done with it? I spent around 5k on my R33 and I make more power(Turbo, ecu, injectors, dump, all little bits to piece it together). 14k, I would have a forged motor with the same running gear. Hell I would even have change left over.

Judging by the sounds of it, I think I am going to have to replace everything. There is no way in hell I will remove my subframe and NOT change the subframe bushes. I was considering going solid the whole way around the back and from the gearbox forward just use the other stuff. I can tell you now my gearbox mount is fairly worn, I recall so when I was doing my clutch. Engine mounts might be fine, the engine doesn't kick around that much but when you are in neutral and give it a free rev then back off quickly you can feel the car wobble a little which is an indication of movement. If I was to do the engine mounts, is this an engine out job or can I lift and support the engine with a crane and change the mounts. How does realigning the engine go? There is certainly room for the mounts to move around before they are tightened and I am guessing even 1mm either side can throw out the balance... Where is a good place in Sydney to get this kind of work done? Subframe out from any workshop will cost 800+ just on labour so I have been told... How much of this is DIY? Ive got everything except the engine crane but I am sure I can find ways to support the engine if necessary.

Keen on this too. From what I have gathered, solid is best, last forever but transfers alot of noise. My car will be street driven. I plan to use solid diff bushes on the same car, 33 gtst.

Lets bump up this bitch. Ive been getting this shudder in my car. Tried different shocks as I thought my teins were too stiff(now using bilsteins), the shudder is still there. Ive fitted the solid pineapple style things, the aluminium ones, its still there but is a little less. Is the diff bush something you can do your self or do you need a press. I can bash the old ones out but don't know about getting the new shit in. Let me explain my shuddering so you can all see if this is the same type of shudder you get. When I go to accelerate, slowly, just a normal start stop traffic take off, the car will shudder enough for me to hear the boot lid jud jud jud in the back. If I give the car a little more petrol when taking off it will not do this. I can do a clutch dump in first and wheel spin nicely and the car will not shudder but the gear stick wobbles abit. When at cruising speed in say 5th gear, if I push the gear and get some heavy load on the motor, my rear view mirror will vibrate. If I punch first I can generally take off fine(from a slow start to flooring) then mash it into 2nd, this is when the car will fish tail on the road while shuddering. I haven't tried anything harsh since fitting in the alloy collars as this shit weather and a heavy foot seems to really smash the petrol. Another thing to note is that I do have a carbotic button clutch and in actual fact I was told that this clutch will ALWAYS shudder in the car. It was much worse when it was first fitted but after bedding in its alot better. Another thing to also note is that I get even more shudder when reversing. Also want to ask, is changing the diff bushes just a diff out or a subframe out(R33 GTST)? Ive removed the diff from my wreck without removing the subframe but no idea if it will go back in. Will solid bushes be better than the other options? Solid won't store energy but will it pass through more vibrations and noise? Ive got alot of things on my shopping list for my car, what do I need to add to it to rectify this shudder? If I go to Pedders and give them $14 for a suspension check, will they find out where and what to change? I am fairly certain they would be more interested in charging 1k to drop my subframe and change the bushes(every car I have EVER taken to them, they have suggested this, the today tonight show wasn't lieing when they said a $14 checkup can become $1200). Advise me people. I can do what this thread says but I am sure there are also other aspects which COULD cause shudder and my case seems a little different to others.

I just figured it out lol.

There's rubber in the harmonic balancer? Fairly sure its all metal...

I'm either going to garage the car or just put it under 24hr cctv. Its disgusting.

Yeah, just for example lol. That is very interesting but it seems like a harder way to tune. It would be easier in my mind, or the mind of a novice, to leave those as standard and adjust the fuel injection as necessary across the load points. Ive sent you a PM. I actually didn't it wouldn't let me...

The harmonic balancer isn't the issue(I hope you're not changing it for that). The noises come from 3 things; 1) The gates racing belt, especially when warm 2) Old bearings 3) The cam cover. I put brand new everything, bearings, belt, rubber grommets on the cam cover. I RARELY get the cam cover sound. Bearing noise is gone, timing belt(the whirr when the AC is on or the engine is warm) is still there. If I do the belt again, I will NEVER get a gates belt. Stock or Nismo.

Clear is the new chrome.

What exactly do you mean when I write that. Do you mean that you initially leave your curve at 100% across the board then setup the injector table to reflect the afr you want. Meaning if you wanted the whole map to be stoich, 14.7, you would set that on the whole map then adjust the air flow to get 14.7 out the rear?

Would have cost them 50 for a good pair, mine were cracked lol.

Yesterday morning I come outside to go for a drive. My indicators are gone lol. I had clear side indicators on my R33 GTST. Someone pinched them. Its obviously someone who either knows that they are worth a little or someone who just knows they look better than orange. f**king dead shits, I didn't care they took the indicators but f**k me instead of pulling the bulb out, they cut my loom. Lucky I had spare everything. Just wish I had our CCTV running that night. Its on now and never switching off.

Its so embarrassing that it only happens on idle cos most of the time that is the only thing people will hear around you when on the lights. Gates racing belt + aircon + idle is f**kING HORRIBLE. I switch my AC off because if that f**king sound.

I am going to buy the same unit but I am going to buy it from Australia($30 more) for warranty. Its got 12 months warranty and it would certainly cost you more than $30 to send back to the US if you had to make a warranty claim. I don't see why you can't run it in in place of the old o2 sensor but you want to run narrowband which scraps that idea. I don't want to hear anything about it being too close to the turbo. People have tried and done it for a long time with no issues. My car is a road car so I rarely see consistent high rpm and heat. You may want to consider an Innovate unit. They are still pretty good sensors, quick and accurate, and they have more outputs, ie you can use the wideband Innovate unit to send a narrowband signal so its basically two sensors in one. I don't think the AEM can do that. I have a Power FC with the O2 sensor disabled so I will be removing the narrowband and fitting mine in place. Threads are the same across most sensors. I don't see the point of removing it. Its a good tool to always have to ensure your ratios are in close to where they should be. Whats to say your narrowband isn't failing and giving your car shit feedback and hindering your fuel eco. If the wideband sensor can fail near the turbo, there is no reason the narrowband wont. If you are fitting it in a new location, the only thing I know is it needs to be fitted wit the sensor facing down at an angle so any moisture drips off the sensor and not into it.