SargeRX8

Did you get squealing with the HPX pads too? My ears are gone deaf from these pads. I was driving earlier with abit of throttle. Couple brakes later even tapping the brake at 80km/h caused it to squeal. Ive got some standard pads I think I'm going to put back in tomorrow as everything I have tried has not got rid of the sound. I think they might be just too hard as they seem to discolour my rotor a fair bit. When I get new rotors and pads all round(when funds permit) Ill either go remsa pads or back to endless pads.

Give KB Clutch Engineering a call. He made me a custom 5 puk carbotic button clutch. Ive got the SS2, big power, huge torque, lighter than my old "OE replacement" clutch was. $380. 380 for a f**king clutch to hold 300rwkw and 700nm torque! Not too sure how long these carbotic clutches last but he said it all comes down to the driver and how its used. My car is a daily, this clutch has been in there for almost a year now and no issues here. When this one gives up, I know where I will be getting my rebuild from.

Thanks for the advice man very much appreciated. I haven't checked the type of sticks but I do know they are blue satin sticks or something, similar ones are on eBay labeled as gp. I follow most of the general and basic rules, my main concern is when I lose an arc or come to a stop, I am worried that there will be some slag left. My old man said that of I wanted to do pipe welding and what not(I am learning to so this so I can build my intake pipe btw) that I need to use a mig welder because starting and stopping the bead is not a good idea. Is this true? Most welds I see do look like one perfect bead all the way around but how the Fu Kai Klee do you get a single whole new around a pipe? Can I do it in halves? Tomorrow I'll cut up some steel and practice a t join. Then I'll hack up my old dump pipe and weld it back together.

I've got a hi low boost controller you can have for 50. Has a plate you fit into the cigarette rubbish pocket thing in the r33. Its a hybrid branded unit with two dials and hi low switch.

If you get a turn flow cooler instal it your self, if you get a standard then pay someone as you need to cut and measure.

Must be someone here selling an rb, but that and drop it into your honda.

I'm surprised you haven't fouled your spark plugs after that many failed attempts. My car died on my, tried so many different things and then noticed all the failed starts flooded my plugs. I would still see a spark but there was no way they would fire in the engine and my battery died trying. New plugs and it was fine. Just because you can see the spark outside the cylinder does not mean it well hold up when there is fuel in there and compression occurring. If the plug is could the spark won't last or seize to exist.

Need to build a new intake pipe, preferable tomorrow and most places will be shut(tomorrow is my only free day). If anyone has something please please please let me know! If you have a 45 degree bend that would be awesome! I am near parramatta but if you have what I need ill drive around.

Does anyone have anything? It would be awesome if someone has a 45 degree bend laying around! I am in Sydney and would be sweet if I can pick something up but anyone with anything of interest should let me know!

Ive got one under my car, nfi what it looks like but if you are in Sydney feel free to come check it out.

Its annoying and ugly. Looking in my rear view to see some f**king demented, warped antenna sticking out. Disconnecting it was the best move ever. I can just wire up an internal antenna if I need it but never use radio anyway.

Both my R33's had the same shit going on. Only the teeniest bit of oil ever came out, I just couldn't justify fixing it lol. Also both my skylines have the leaking resevoir. I have NO f**king idea where the fluid is going but its on the hose and its dripping. No matter what I tighten up it doesn't stop.

Yeah I always keep a set of gloves on. Went for another round today, more amps, didn't stick at all today. This photo was my first weld today! My uncle gave me some tips, I was doing little half moons in this weld. When using a new electrode, I am abit jittery because its long and wobbly but when it shortens up a little its great. Maybe I should hold the electrode but was scared of electrocution. Big amps here lol. This is my picture now. Its not the straightest of beads as I am still abit shaky but I feel this is something I will be able to learn and do well for my self. Any further tips or input would be great.

Ditch the surge tank, I almost spent big money on a setup only after reading opinions and facts. Unless you are driving around like a dickhead on your last quater tank, you'll be fine. I don't let my car drop far below half. Ditch the Garret, Hypergear turbo. Designed, tried and tested for the and only for the skyline.

Consider the Hypergear SS1.5PU. DVS JEZ will be tuning it this saturday hopefully and numbers will be up. Ive got the SS2 on my car, was mildly bolt on and not too hard to fit in. Looks pretty stock, dead stock if I had the heat shield and stock airbox on their but you gotta compromise sometimes. I thought your car was non turbo, are you DE+T ing or is this a different car? Don't just jump into a Garret, and don't just jump into a Hypergear but take it from me, I had owned 3 garret turbos(3071, 3076 and 3582), all of which should have been on my car but there were so many more factors when going Garret. Running a 3071 gives you awesome response with about 280rwkw. the 3076 a touch more lag but opens up 300rwkw. The 3582 can push closer to 340rwkw on the stock motor, but you will be pushing 25+psi here which is quite alot for the stock motor. I'm running 14psi low boost 19psi high boost. I never use high boost. The car is very quick, nicely responsive(flat til about 3300 - 3500, makes no difference if low or high boost, you will reach your peak boost by this rpm). The Garret 3076 turbo is NOT designed for the Nissan, it is a generic application turbo which happens to be the best turbo Garret make for a stock Rb25. On the other hand the Hypergear turbos(SS series and the ART43 range) are tried, tested and developed with only the RB25 in mind. 98 fuel I'm pushing big horses and close to 700nm torque. Its the torque delivery which is the big difference here, you can create peak power but depending on how and where the flow is in the turbo will determine what the torque will feel like. 700nm of torque, my car is squatting and lifting like Ive never seen before.... and I might have even more potential when I get a larger intake pipe.

That kind of looks nice but I also kind of don't like it. This is what I want and I want it in CF. My car is white, and anything CF on white looks minty. I really want it where it is in the pic I attached but I can see use for both locations, at the rear to cool the turbo, at the front to feed my air box. Ahhhh decisions decisions!

I think my first problem was amperage was too low. Sometimes I noticed the melted metal was not sticking to the surface I was welding onto, it was like rolling around, literally. My second problem is it was near IMPOSSIBLE to see through the lenses on my dads mask, I need to wait so my eyes can focus then touch a couple of times so I can see where I am. When I get the arc going I try my best to keep an even distance between the stick and the surface to maintain an arc but like you guys are saying, I must be moving too fast and not keeping a closer gap. Its just frustrating when I bump it and lose the arc and the stick sticks to the metal. Also annoying because I have to keep running inside and resetting out power board because it keeps going into protect lol. I think Ill connect it directly to the wall next time. I have no idea what type of metal that was. I assume it was just steel, I don't think its galvanized or anything. What kind of sticks should I get/be using if I am just working with steel? Could I use this welder to work with aluminium? I'm going to buy a few sticks and focus on controlling and maintaining the arc. After watching some videos on youtube, alot of guys say for practicing its best to start with straight line beads then move on to half moons and circles. My first few attempts just saw the stick sticking to metal causing black shit everywhere. Everytime I tried to weld two pieces together, the weld would stick to one side but not to the other one.

How do you order it? They do a carbon fiber piece too, but there is no price....

Well I tried to fiddle with my dads welder today. Its just a little stick welder, you connect the ground to the metal and the stick thing in the little claw thing. Anyway this is the first time Ive ever attempted to weld. I was just trying to get the arc going and create some spots then some beads. My spots came out alright and I managed to get one or two nice little beads but most of them came out like dick and I don't know why. When I manage to get the arc going, it looks fine behind the welding mast, I can see the red glow of the metal and it looks like a nice bead has formed. I lift up the goggles and let the metal cool abit. I tap it with something to get the burnt flux stuff off only to see that there was no bead, just shitting little blobs. Ive attached some pix. You can kind of see where I tried to get a bead going but failed. Is this something to do with my technique or something to do with the machine or settings? I'm using about 60amps maybe more, maybe less, I just tinker with it. The sticks I used were blue sticks about 2 - 3mm thick.That big fat weld I done looks great. It was the last one I tried before I gave up. After tapping it, most of it was that shit that flakes off and I was really disappointed. I'm out of sticks. What do you guys suggest to get and are they expensive?

What about just swapping the top half of the seat, where it pivots with the base?

Should be. If they use the same fuel lid then wiring is most likely the same can just fit it to your old cradle and drop it in. I got a 33 gtr pump. Their cradle design is different but wiring is the same as is the pipe work.

He was screaming his ear off, my mum was in the car hitting me to slow down. Happened. True story. My old skyline which made 225rwkw would absolutely tear them in half. Only a GTST, and those I6 M3's are better than the V8's. Doesn't take much more than a little boost to be quicker than them. Top end they have it with their larger displacement motor but down low, we got bigger torque and enough power to get infront.

I wouldn't go with external for power gain(and definitely not if there was power loss), its just for the option to run a screamer lol. I would love to hear your car with this thing going off atmo. Nice big boost, should sound tuff and loud. Ill head there soon lol, always find nice stuff in those bins. f**king overpriced apexi shit.

There was a chap here selling some parts, in the picture he had an R33 bonnet which had a vent/duct fitted to the standard bonnet just above the filter location. It was NOT a flush mounted vent, it sat on the bonnet rather than moulded in. This is what I want. Does anyone know where I can get one? Most I find are mounted from under or flush mounted, but these ones that sit slightly above would be an easy DIY(no putty work, cut, seal, paint and fit). Something like this but not CF http://www.justjap.c...518&cat=&page=1 Or if I can get one in CF, cheaper, that would be mint. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Genuine-Carbon-Fibre-Fiber-NACA-Vent-Scoop-Intake-/260844260372?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3cbb878c14 Is this price fair? Can anything like this be found locally?

They are slow. Turbo skylines which are stock as a rock are also quite slow but still not bad for a small turbo motor. There aren't much for the price you can get which are quicker. A slightly boosted turbo skyline with the basic mods(exhaust and probably cooler) is faster than a BMW M3. I had about 180rwkw when I was stock and I managed to get ahead and infront of the M3 bmw V8. Just enjoy the car. When you are able to get a turbo, you will love it. A skyline with greater than or equal to 200rwkw is a very fun, nice, powerful and fast car. Love the video above, not many 2.0NA motors can do that!