SargeRX8

Abit of a bump but Ive been looking at one of these. I feel it is something I can do my self. The unit you guys use sits underneath so its definateley more work involved. What I would like to do is get the one that sits in from the top. Kind of like these but this is way too expensive. http://www.justjap.com/store/product.php?productid=19518&cat=&page=1 Are there any single plastic alternatives which sit in from the top? I would imagine its a line up, measure, cut, touch up the cut and treat with rust proofing agent, get the duct painted white matching the car colour code and then glue it into place. Thing is I don't know where I want to put it. I wanted to put it at the front where my intake box is then make a small ducting system in my pod box underneath, but the job you guys have done to let in cool air on the turbo is also awesome. Where can I pick up one of these bulging ducts?

If, in the near future, E85 is more readily available then my car with the SS2 will me running this new fuel. Until then, unfortunately, there aren't very many stations around offering the fuel. Maybe the Government will offer some sort of rebate in getting cars converted to E85 fuel. That would be heaven lol. I would get my car to be flex fuel capable(some other guy here has done it, he can run what ever he wants, anytime). Very nice output on the last dynos there Tao.

Ive found a whole bunch of threads about cleaning the outside and what not but I need to clean the inside, there is a fair bit of shit(due to them being sitting for so long with no bulbs/caps) inside and I wanna clean it up. What works to get the light open? Wack it in the oven for 15mins on 100c? Anyone done this before, let me know!

How much I want one! Had one and crashes it once and it broke piece of plastic ebay shit.

Not always JUST the bov. When I had my other skyline, I fitted a atmo blitz bov and a alloy intake pipe at the same time. Started the car, started fine, drove it and it almost stalled on the first clutch in. Removed the BOV and fit the stock one on with a rubber return line. The problem got a little better but not right, still evident. I got my pipe remade with the return for the BOV flowing towards the turbo rather than straight down. What was happening is the air from the BOV was hitting the AFM, as mad082 said above, fooling the car into thinking fresh air just hit the AFM and thus putting in fuel to compensate when really it was the same air, just measured twice. Look at the stock Nissan intake pipe, the breather and return lines are as far away from the AFM as possible and still at a 45degree angle pointing towards the turbo. Its a hint when you go to build your intake pipe.

I found that out the hard way.

Couple of my mates invited me to a VW Golf cruise. I said yeah ill probably go Leg 1: http://www.whereis.c...=55515103F04D25 Leg 2: http://www.whereis.c...=55516F5163628C Return trip: http://www.whereis.c...=DA11C477954BC5 Its about 320km total drive. I think there is food and what not at the end or something. Meet points are at the twin servos on the M4(westbound) the one with Caltex, maccas and red rooster on either side. The other meet point is here: Meetup is at 9am at the servos and the rest of the guys heading over from Rhodes meetup will be there around 9:15 for 9:30 departure. The Rhodes meetup is 8:30 for a 9:00 am departure. 3 of my mates are going and they said anyone can come so just putting it out there. Looks like a nice drive and if I go, hopefully I'm not the only Skyline haha. Even of no one goes, looks like a nice route for an SAU cruise! Incase Ive missed anything a copy paste from their forum: Forum thread: http://www.vwgolf.net.au/showthread.php?4915-Sydney-Blue-mountains-Jenolan-Caves-drive! You gotta sign up to view it. Only reason I post this is Ive seen non skylines at a skyline cruise, so they can get non golf r32's at their golf cruise(and other skylines lol).

A little cheat to pass with your current exhaust is get a silencer tip in the cannon, get one spot weld done to hold it on and then undo your cat, get a thin sheet of metal and puncture some holes in it. Make it the same size as the flange, put it in after the cat and BAM no power and no noise. When you pass, take it all out. Stock exhaust is still not quiet enough to pass(Ive heard from a few on here).

I've always run the sensor with the spacers. Its pushing on the other side of the cam cover which alters the sound. I'll get a video of it.

Belt is probably fine, it done the noise before, my old belt was mint condition. Ill check it out saturday.

How much was the CF cover? I want a clear one lol but Ive got the ugly stock cam gears. If that silicone is worn, how is it replaced? I don't think its causing harm to the car but its harming my ears!

Do you mean the rubber grommet things? If so then yes, I replaced those when I done the belt as they were squished. I don't know if I need to remove the cam gears and replace some grommets or tighten something holding it to the head behind the cam gear but I do know that I don't want to take that timing belt off again.

My car had a poor condition bumper which I bought second hand to replace a aftermaket front bumper. The paint wasn't cracked. I merely bumped, BUMPED, those f**king concrete stops at the end of a parking slot and the paint cracked left right and center. Plastic will bend and the paint on it is not very flexible so it cracks. Fiberglass bumpers on the other hand just f**king deteriorate into shit so be glad you've only got the stock bumper there. I wouldn't paint it either. My car had one of the front quater panels painted(It was driven up a kerb caused some damage, not by me). It doesn't look obvious but its noticeable. If you respray the front, there is NO WAY you can blend in the 15 years of exposure the paint has had and the front is going to look different. Just leave it. The R33 doesn't have much holding the front bumper, go to any car dealer, look at any R33 GTS25T and give the bottom corners of the front bumper a wobble, they jiggle alot lol and if you can squeeze hard enough I'm sure you can squish them. Some people go Series 1 front bumper on a series 2 as it sits higher on a lowered car and not as much chance of scraping, I wouldn't do this as series 1 front end looks like dogs balls compared to series 2.

When I got my car, it has always been making a ugly sound. Hard to explain but I had videos of it. I knew it was related to something right at the front of the engine. Either belt, bearing, cam gear cover. I changed my timing belt as my bearings were rooted and the problem went away. Just yesterday the sound game again. It is no where near as bad as before but its there and I don't like it. Same tap tap tap sound. Every half second at idle and increases with RPM. It is not audible if the bonnet is down. If I push the cam cover back towards the back of the engine with slight force the sound is gone, completely gone. As soon as I let go and the cover moves forward about 1 - 2mm it comes again. Its f**king annoying and I am almost tempted to rip the whole thing apart. Ive read on google and a fair people in the UK with skylines are having the same issue where if you push on the cam cover the sound goes away. It kind of sounds like lifter tapping sound but definitely not as fast as the lifters and it obviously isnt the lifter as I VERY much doubt pushing the cam cover will alter the sound under the rocker covers or move anything there. Anyone have any ideas?

Yeah I'm fair sure we are all aware but there is not going to be a drastic change between similar aged drivers etc. Seems most of the younger drivers now are paying between 650 - 700. Ah well, what needs to be done needs to be done.

Showing alot of interest in these man. I had a set on my old car, sold them, wish I didn't. If Ive got funds, I am a very potential buyer.

Ive got 3 layers. One from my old car, the current and one wrapped around the base. Still was shit lol. Its the vibration and noise which travels through the stick which is shit. They should be dampened inside but that would defeat the point of a solid shifter...

I have a short shifter on my R33. From what I recall it doesn't even have circlips... It is just the shifter and a series of bushes then a clamp to hold it all in place. The shift and gear control was awesome. The sound of a solid shifter shit me up the wall. The whirring noise that the shifter throws up is terrible. The Nismo shifters have a shorter throw than stock and do not let this noise through. Any solid shifter is going to let noise through, both skylines Ive had(R33's) used the same shifter and had the same noise. No matter how much rubber shit I put around it. Ive tried a plastic, stock and metal gear knob. Metal was the worst the stock one helps get rid of it and the other drift one didn't really do anything. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Nissan-Skyline-Short-Shifter-Kit-R32-R33-/320741118270?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4aada9113e Mine looks like this. Pretty much exactly the same. Only reason I don't use it anymore is because my current stock shifter feels fine enough and not worth the extra noise you get from these shifters. BELIEVE ME you WILL notice it. Unless you're deaf or have your music always on, its audible. My car isn't quiet either.

I got a weird disgusting sound when ever I came onto boost when my car was stock. When I took out the gasket on the back of the turbo the thing had black soot all over it and cracked to the shit stick. Exhaust leaks make the weirdest sounds Ive heard come from a car.

Abit of a bump but mine is due. $688 is the cheapest I could find! Is this right. Local shop told me that prices have gone up alot in the past couple years. I'm 24. I set the age to 27 and it had no affect and reading above, looks like it wont mean shit until I'm 30. Also the car currently has rego, does it need a blue slip or is that only when rego expires? Blue slip is only for unregistered cars correct?

Is it a direct replacement for the LM317? I need to remember how to calculate all this shit again.

Best site ever haha. As I have always said, the scrambler is half the price of the GPS tracker.

Bumpo Ive also got a pretty good condition brake master with brake booster. Suits the ABS models! $90

Cant be clutch as he said it was fine on launch. Also the clutch will slip, revs will rise, speed wont. It the car coughing, spluttering, popping at all? My car would just not drive below 2krpm but was worse up top. I had two problems. Initial problem was failing fuel pump so I was lean popping everywhere. After that was fixed, I was running too rich and the plugs were fouling up. Vacuum leaks are easy to find. Everything under the bonnet should sound smooth, no weird or unwanted sounds. Get a short piece of hose with dia. about 5 cent coin, put one end in your ear and the other go around the engine bay. It will help you hear a leak without hearing other engine noises. If you are in neutral and you raise the RPM to say 1100 does it hold? Or does it pop and choke on itself.

I know a set of bilsteins I bought were f**ked because when I went over a dump, they were so soft and flat the front of the car would thud on the ground. They should feel springy, not sloppy. Bilstein shocks are the best replacement and fine some nice springs for them. All depends what you do with the car. If you go adjustable coilover, make sure you get one with a big resevoir or external one so you can control the ride feel. Ive got height adjustable teins, bumpy as shit on the road. As for the body roll, Ive taken turns at about 60km and you can feel that any more than that the car is just going to roll. Depends what kind of a turn you are talking about, surface of the road etc. Sway bars are the way to go. 16 year old cars here, the bushings are probably dry, cracked, leaky etc.