SargeRX8

Yeah, the rod is adjustable

How many people are there, though, that run an FMIC without cutting the reo? They just don't fit unless you remove your AC parts to fit the cooler more frontwards. My old car had a very hacked up reo, insurance didn't really look at it either when the car was written off.

Picture.

Hey guys, I got this actuator from a guy but its 17 psi which is a little high. Will trade for a 12 - 14psi actuator. Its gotta have a straight rod. PM me or post here, I'm in Sydney.

I will be checking the thickness of my rotors tomorrow and if they are good for another light machine I will get that done. Otherwise I will be getting rid of my rotors and may upgrade my pads too. Those Remsa pads sound tasty!

I'm considering giving my brakes a make over, and if I do(full set of rotors, calipers and pads) I will have spent more modifying my car than I did on the car it self lol. I don't see it as a waste. Its something I want, something I worked for, something I chose. Ive never drive a car with a mechanical but Ive driven a fully locked diff and I don't like it lol. For me I'm not a tracker, I don't drift and I don't smoke my rear tyres. Its just the odd push to red now and then and I love it. I'm considering doing all my bushes but that is something which will cost a fair penny, especially on labor as its something I don't think I can do in my drive way(for the subframe anyway). For just under $5000 I could be at 320rwkw on 98 but for engine health I will only be pushing 280rwkw.

Did you fit a copper washer between it or just thread tape it? The thread tape is normally enough, I just use copper washers on all bolts which seal for the extra bit of protection.

^ Standard brakes are pretty good, maybe invest $500 in rotors and $200 in pads. Diff is also quite reasonable too, if anything shim it up. Suspension is about $800 - 1200. Its hard to find nice, modified skylines these days. Then again I wouldn't buy a skyline without an FMIC, exhaust and suspension. Suspension that old is flat, the stock exhaust is horrible, and an FMIC gives you the headroom for modifications. The basework is covered.

Isn't that the water drain bolt for the block? Tighten it up, may have rattled or vibrated loose. Could even be water from your turbo line running down to the bolt...

You said you've built saabs before so I guess you're familiar with the mechanical work which will save you $$ Turbo $3200 - Bullarase, I got a Hypergear ATR43SS-2 for $1300 I think it was. Engine man $2000 - A power FC will cost you about $1600 tuned Injectors $1000 - $1000 for injectors? I bought Nismo 740cc's for $650 brand new. You won't even need these for 250rwkw. IC $1000 - lol, $200 - $500 depending if you go new or used. 250rwkw doesn't need an amazing core. Clutch $1000 - I payed $380 for a 5puk carbotic button clutch suitable for huge torque(600nm+) and big power. Fuel pump $250 - Or you can get a GTR fuel pump for about $80 but then again you can get a Bosch 040 brand new from Canada for $185 delivery included. Already have exhaust and Apexi AVCR. My car is making 245rwkw on 11psi. This turbo is capable and designed to run 17psi for a nice 280 - 300rwkw. I spent about 5g total on my car which includes all the other little things I need to add/replace/fix. I done most of the work my self, apart from the tune. For the price of a Skyline and the vast collection of aftermarket parts, you will be hard pressed to find a better performing car. All in all, for the tweaker, performance seeker, a skyline is a very impressive machine. The fatter your wallet the faster you can go but for not very much you can still move very quick. My old line would rip 3rd gear with only 225rwkw. The torque is very impressive for a 2.5L motor. For your clarification, the ATR43 is not going to be the most responsive turbo you can buy but it gives such a beautiful, linear delivery of power. 255 wheels and such little boost I still get the chirp on third and the slipper snake on 2nd.

When I first bought my car it was missing the little shims between the pads and the brake caliper which are designed to minimize noise. And it used to work, it was such a change. Yesterday I took the car for a spirited drive, only about 5 mins down some nice roads and immediately my brakes started screaming. It was ear piercing. It killed any bit of driving enthusiasm I had in me as I too noticed immediate brake fade and they just felt like they weren't going to do much after that. Normally they stop fine in traffic and on the roads. I planned to go to the next cruise which involved curvy roads but there is no way in shit stick that I am taking the car there in this condition. My cousin was in his car and he was like the brakes are worn out... They have about 3000km on them and they are no where near worn. Its not the screech of the indicator hitting the rotor, its a squeal of a million cats dying at once. Anyway my car is equipped with the standard R33 brake calipers, DBA slotted rotors and QFM HPX pads. I'm nearly f**king tempted to rip of these brakes and rotors and just buy a new front set but that would set me back almost 2k so that is a dream for now. Anyone have any ideas? And to add note, the rotors were not machined when coming from my old pads(endless brakepads). Could this be the dinosaur dick killing my brakes?

Youve got one guy keen on the calipers and another on the rest of the gear. Ill be in the market soon for a set of brake upgrades and if these are still around, I shall be in contact. This may take a while as my wallet is in a coma.

I think the main point peter was trying to make is not that 19psi is going to kill your motor, but the fact that it is not a good idea to be running 19psi as a low boost setting, all day, every day. He said sure run your 15/17/19psi but run a lower low boost like 10 or 12psi. Right now I'm only on 9psi and ill admit I am very happy with the performance. My old car with a garrett high flow would make the same power at 14psi. He thinks also that the front compressor housing is too small for the flow and that high boost and thinks that on extreme use the thing will roast and get red hot. He didn't mean it literally but he was saying what everyone here is saying about smaller turbos trying to do big work becoming inefficient. None the less, back onto the original topic of this thread. If anyone is thinking about getting a hypergear turbo, I highly suggest you put it up there in your preference list. I was initially going to go Garrett with genuine garrett front and rears. From the graphs Ive seen I'd say the extra pain in the ass of fitting the turbo on and having to make a custom dump flange, spacing the turbo and what not is not worth it. These hypergear turbos literally bolted straight on(obviously not as easy as it sounds but yes it bolts straight on). The only change is the connecting pipe from the compressor outlet and the intake pipe. You can use standard but Stao doesn't recommend it. Happy customer here. 9psi and I break traction between first and second and chirp third with fat 255 tyres. Very nice 0 - 100 even though I haven't tried it out I know it will get there quick. My old car was in low to mid 5's I'm sure this one is on par if not better. Cant wait to tidy up my tune and run more higher boost.

White smoke is condensation in early mornings. Black smoke is normal too on startup just indicates the car is running rich to warm get things flowing. If you blow white smoke while driving its water. If you blow blue smoke its burning oil. If you are certain you are losing oil, it must be going somewhere. I don't know if the oil would retain it self but if you leak oil from the rear main seal, it might be pooling up in the bellhousing of your gearbox but this is very unlikely as the oil will definately seem through the seam where the housing meets the engine. This is a tough one. If you aren't burning it, you aren't dripping it, I'm stumped. Unless its leaking out of your head gasket, onto your exhaust and burning up before you have a chance to see it. This happened in our van, oil was leaking straight onto one of the headers(dangerous shit) and burning up. We had to keep topping it up then somehow the mechanic said its leaking oil onto the exhaust and burning up... Then again we had drip marks on the ground.. Have you recently added anything to the oil system like a cooler or relocation kit? Is it still losing oil after you top it up or has it stopped?

Rear seals? Cam seals? Crack seal? Oil filter not tight enough? If it's not burning it most likely is dripping. Leave some news papers under you car and look for drip marks. He can't say you're not leaking when you clearly are...

The more boost you run, the shorter your motors life span. You are running the motor with more air and 12psi over standard. It's like over clocking a computer. You shorten it's life to gain performance. You add more voltage, more timing and you increase speed and power output but you also increase heat and internal load on components working out of their safe zone. Sure, they can do it, but for how long? Boost affects it big time. Your piston is doing one thing, compressing fuel and air then turning the crank. You double, triple the amount of air and the pressure of air, double the amount of fuel... A coke bottle can handle x amount of pressure. Drop the bottle you increase the pressure, introduce mentos, the bottle can't handle the pressure and it pops. Peter has been working on these type of motors for 20 plus years, he said he has seen almost everything that can happen, happen. Now don't show me those couple, few people running huge boost and what not, look at all the people upgrading, rebuilding and replacing motors. It's more often someone on high boost will pop their motor as the introduction of more boost, air and fuel introduces the unwanted side effects...

Peter said he had been working with this motors since they first came out and thinks its really dumb when people put that much boost on the motor considering the compression ratio. He said ok if you are aware its not going to last but I said I need the car to last me a fair while. his suggestion is run about 12 psi low and run 17 to 19 high. He said what is the pint of cruising on the freeway then overtaking someone with such a high amount of boost.. It is logical and with good reason.

Got my car tuned but its going back soon. Anyway its an R33 GTST Series 2 with the following: Unopened RB25DET HyperGear ATR43SS-2 3" JJR Bellmouth dump HKS Hi Power Silent exhaust Yellow jacket coils NGK Copper plugs BCP7RES gapped to .7 Genuine HDI FMIC Venom 5" body 100cpsi cat Nismo 740cc injectors Bosch 040(was failing during tune) Nismo FPR Greddy profec b spec 2 3" metal intake with Apexi power intake filter Power FC tuned by Advan performance Made 244rwkw on 11.4psi. That is with the boost controller set to 100%. That is as much as we can get out of it. With about 15psi, we should see about 270rwkw and 17psi about 280rwkw. 20psi should see 300rwkw on regular fuel pump. Ive fitted a GTR fuel pump in there to fix the fuel pump issues. Probably will swap that with a brand new 040 pump or run it as a lift into a surge tank. Last printed dyno shows about 238rwkw on 11psi, should have printed the previous runs

Just fitted in a GTR fuel pump, the problems are gone. Low down its still shit because the old pump was failing and the tuner can't get a straight afr so its still rich then lean then rich then lean. But f**k yeah, it starts now, I can hear it prime, it runs just fine under boost and holds power all the way. f**k yeah lol. Should I run the fuel pump with the negative line grounded to run it at full speed all the time? My brother suggests I do so I did for now.

Direct feed from battery to a relay, use the existing fuel pump positive wire as your trigger wire and then feed your pumps directly off the battery. The thin wires on the standard wiring system aren't sufficient to feed 3 pumps. Also the car is a street car. I want one just incase I do start going tracks I won't have to do it later. Also as a fail safe just to ensure I never get a gulp of air.

Injectors are brand new, never been installed until we fitted them in the rail. I'm going to go autobarn or some shit and buy a fuel pressure gauge. I just called up a spare parts shop they have a GTR fuel pump for $120 fml I wouldn't have bought the 040 if I knew and I could have gotten it today. I guess I can and keep the 040 spare. The GTR pump will be a more suitable lift pump for the surge tank too. If I do get a fuel gauge, do I install it between the filter and the fuel rail? What fuel pressure should I be reading for what I'm running? 43 on idle? Maybe if its on the downside I can adjust the regulator to compensate for the lazy pump or is that a bad idea?

The ss2 turbo on page 74. Stao made huge power, 320rwkw with the same turbo but my tuner wasn't comfortable with a standard block taking that much pressure. This is an awesome turbo. Some people like a turbo that just comes on, this turbo is very linear. It literally feels like it is pulling harder and harder to red line. Can't wait to start driving it again.

Thats my dyno above The car was even misfiring at 2500 on only 6psi. We sorted it out by fixing the spark plug gap. Now the fuel pump has failed and was failing during the tune and the car is undriveable The tuner was impressed with the power it made on that boost. We initially had a high boost actuator and he was worried about this as it was making full boost, it hit 19psi, by about 3500rpm and said that there is no way he can recommend that all day every day so we opted for the lower actuator with good results. He reckons with a 10 - 12psi actuator he could make 250rwkw on 12psi and about 265 - 270rwkw on 15psi and more on higher boost. Very happy with this turbo. Just pissed off I cant do anything with the car due to the fuel pump. Its leaning out which is obviously a fuel related issue. Hopefully the new fuel pump sorts out this issue. If the fuel pump fixes my issues, I will post back after we touch up the tune.

Hey all, Well Ive been reading about setting up a surge tank but am a little confused. I'm still going to gather parts either from for sale here or make do with what my brother has spare. Anyway first thing is first. Ive read other topics here but I need pictures to see how everything goes. The fuel cap in my r33 gtst has 3 hoses... Out, in and I have no idea what the third one is. I need these clarified before I go further. A picture I found on this forum showed fuel being fed to the fuel pump by one line then an overflow line going back into the fuel tank. Does the overflow line return back into the old return line from the engine and then the return line from the engine goes into the surge tank? This brings me to my next point. Would this cause the cycle of fuel to be the same fuel going to the engine and coming from the engine to sit in the surge tank? How does it get circulated quick enough? Is there a way to return the fuel from the engine back to the fuel tank to encourage the flow of petrol so it doesn't heat up too much or is it fine the way it is. My setup would and most likely be as the diagram below consisting of the following pumps, bosch 040 pickup and a bosch 044 feed. Ive read about overpressurising the surge tank but some chap at boost cruising said he has been running a 040 pickup and twin 044 pushers for a while now and had no issues, he said as long you have an overflow line you don't need to worry about overpressurising. Now my CAD professional level diagram: Is it going to sound like someone is tanking a piss in my boot? I need some input here. Also, is it fine just to use EFI hose or do I need to use that braided shit? If you could post pictures of your setups, that would be awesome. This is going into a gtst currently on 330hp with potential for 380 - 410hp on fuel pump. Cheers all

This pump has seen about 40000km of use maybe a little more. It hasn't had any issues in my old car(although my old car would always lean pop when cruising and touching throttle). Its just started after the tune. I'm going to pick up an electronic fuel gauge tomorrow and fit it in. Should I still be seeing the standard 42psi when running a nismo FPR and nismo 740cc injectors on the stock rail? I'm also running about 10psi low/12psi high boost for about 230rwkw low boost/245rwkw high boost. It sounds like its working after grounding the negative terminal but it doesn't feel like its working correctly. It sounds like misfire but its not misfire, its just a very quick, random sequence of lean popping. I can get a video but I don't want to risk damage... It does it on idle so I very much doubt its misfiring. I'm running .7 gap on bcp7res with yellow jackets. They were fine on 1.1 gap on standard boost and turbo but with this turbo they were losing spark as soon as I came onto even 6psi of boost so peter gapped them to .7