SargeRX8

100% belt noise, its definately tighter than it should be. Ill get a video tomorrow of how mine sounds. Its not loud(sometimes when warm it CAN get a little audible) but definately not that noticeable. It is if you stick your head under the bonnet. And why the hell would you remove it? Adjust the tension, thats it. They are great belts, better than Nissans. Nissan belt is softer so it stretches a tiny bit to give the belt a tiny bit of play room. Get this tensioned right and she will be fine. Its not going to break, its not gonna snap, its not going to kill your engine if its fitted right. Noise is noise, its normal. Get it adjusted and after a while you wont even notice the tiny whirr. Its inaudible from the cabin.

It is a pain in the arse. Normally I can access ANYTHING. This was IMPOSSIBLE. I repeat IMPOSSIBLE for me to even come close to. I fit pliers over the clip which holds it but no way I could squeeze and pull it out. Maybe loosen the engine mounts, put a trolley jack and jack the car from the back of the gear box leaning the engine forward? That will give you room and you could maybe get away without removing the tailshaft and changing box oil.

Ive adjusted my timing belt(gates belt) 3 times my self. First time it made a scrubbing kind of sound it was loud. Definitely too tight. Now its just down to a tame whirr which is normal if you are using a gates belt. A gates belt has almost no stretch and no room for tolerance. If you are running the belt too tight it will make noise right throughout the rev range as there is constant strain. Its a pain in the arse loosening it, pretty much everything off again just to get to the damn tensioner. First time took me about 3 hours, second time to adjust took about 30 mins to pull everything off. I reckon I can do a full timing belt change on an R33 in about 1 hour now. This is mine: Most horrible sound my car has ever made. Its gone now and as I said just a faint whirr.

Get a tune during winter and when summer comes around drive the car less and more casually. It will go harder in winter anyway.

I don't understand the concept of a retune if no hardware was changed... if a cars health has deteriorated that far since the tune, it's probably dead.. This obviously isn't the case if you have a shit tune though.. Hard to diagnose, if it is hardware related, leaking hose, it will always have the issue...

Metal cat is really expensive in comparison. Metal cat are also supposed to be legal but that is as a direct replacement. I'm pretty sure once you increase power, fuel, etc this is thrown out of balance. Got and fitted my venom today. Went straight on, no hassles. Just shoved the egt sensor into the grommet but I might get it modded to fit. Didn't really notice any difference in sound. Can't judge on performance as it is going to be unfair. If car was stock I could make a note but the car has a new untuned turbo so I have nothing to go by. Build quality is pretty awesome. Feels rock solid. Its amazing looking into the old cat, I was expecting it to be dirty and clogged but it was surprisingly very clean but you can definitely see the cell count difference and how it becomes a restriction. Great buy imo. 1 year warranty is a plus, aus company, cheap, ready to bolt on. What more could you want?

I bled mine doing pretty much everything above(bar the coke bottle). Let the car idle and warm up with bleeder open and lid off. Gave the pipes some squeezing to encourage any little trapped bubbles to come out. Also took it for a 20minute drive. Don't get scared but you can open the bleeder a tiny bit after a 15min drive. I did. Believe me the amount of air that came out was amazing before coolant came out. Under pressure and heat the air will travel to the highest point in the system(the bleeder) just crack it, literally one to two turns you will hear pssssst sound. Jiggle the screw and you will see bubbles of coolant seeping out. Just wait til you see abit more coolant come out. Be cautious about this, if you take it too far you will get coolant shooting out and its f**king hot. Have a rag or towel handy and be cautious!! I have a question of my own. The first time I done my coolant, I heard like water in the cabin, I'm suspecting its water flowing through the heater core because it happened alot when revving. Its literally the sound of water flowing and sometimes taking a sharp turn it made the sound. Kind of like a half empty bottle in the car(there wasn't). This is all gone after my second bleed, I think.

You know you have the power when you need it. There is a difference in use between a 1000hp and a 400hp car. A 400hp car, depending on the driver, will not be driven like a 1000hp car. A 1000hp car is driven with the intentions of being put down the track day in day out as long as it will last. My old line had 320hp never had an issue with it and I drove the car like its just a normal car. Just because you have a skyline does not mean every second you're driving you need to race, hit limiter, full boost etc. That is the misconception. You've got a car with potential to go fast, doesn't necessarily mean you have to go fast all the time. Its like a cop with a gun; just because he has it, does not mean he has to put it to use. The difference then is giving the gun to a criminal, who will just be pointing and shooting all the time. Basically what I'm getting at is your car can make the power and how long it last is not in the car, its in the driver. 300rwkw can last you years with some moderate driving. I'm speaking on my perspective. I don't know what he intends to do with the car but if I had 300rwkw I'd still drive the car like it was a stocker and every now and then open her up just for the thrill. That's just me.

I just read your motor overheated. The engine *could* even be warped but this is very worst case.

That is probably true. But I still don't understand how it could cause a startup issue but be resolved with just the blip of the throttle.

When you pull it apart to do the headgasket, you can leave the block in the car and do your own inspection for hair line cracks, scored bores, etc. You can take the head to any head specialist and just get them to clean it up, polish it and check your valves, springs etc(I really don't know what is involved). Or you can do a comp test and a leak down test. Comp test will tell you if your gasket is gone and between which cylinders while the leak down test can tell you if you do in face have a damaged head. I don't know if its good grounds to test for cracks n shit but the general rule on the leak down is listen to for air leaks. If you hear air leaking in the head and nothing from intake or exhaust ends, there might be a crack in your head leaking air into the valve covers. Worst case is a rebuild but in that case I would get another healthy motor. 2.5g for an rb26dett is quite a steal in comparison to a 6k rebuild WHICH, as you said, does incur its risks. No one can build a Nissan like Nissan. Just look at the luck Stao had with this rb25 rebuild. The pin thing which holds the piston to the rod rattled loose and left grooves in his cylinder about 4mm deep. Scary stuff these rebuilds. Even though Ive never done it, but if I had to I would seriously consider rebuilding the motor my self. Prep work done somewhere else but the assembly I believe is something that with time and patience is something I could do. Short story even shorter, do a comp test. If you get shit readings between only two cylinders, you know there is a break in the headgasket. If they all read fine, chances are the cylinder is fine and probably not cracked and the issue *could* be narrowed down to the head.

He can do 3.5" flanges. He has bolt on kits suitable for most cars ready to go. Mine is already in post and I payed 12am this morning! I asked him about the egt sensor port he said they don't come with them but they can be modded to suit. He didn't mention if he does it, nor did I ask. If I wanted it, I would just get a high tensile thick nut, same thread as the sensor, drill a hole in the end of the cat then weld it ontop. Wouldn't be hard. Then again, my old r33 did not even run the temp sensor.

I just ordered and payed for a 3" in out bolt on to R33 GTST 5" body 100cell cat for $250. SMS'd him, sent me an invoice and it gets mailed out in the morning.

Are these tested and tried brands? I've looked through alot on ebay and they all seem generic with a brand stamped on them. Venom stands out as it is tested and street legal which the others mention nothing of. I'm going to ditch the xforce because apparently they too are chinese untested, illegal stuff. 5" body sounds tasty too.

I was told my stao I need a high flowing cat. What should I get? Xforce 100cell metal cat? Catco ceramic high flow? Who has a metal cat and what did it cost. I would gut my cat and weld a pipe in there but I'm abit iffy about that. I'm in nsw and was quoted 320 for the metal xforce but I heard bad things.

My car also has the same issue as OP, when starting on cold start in mornings(stock ecu) the car will start to about 1krpm and then die if I do not blip the throttle for a split second. Something seems sticky... Its like something isn't opening up when it should be. I don't really understand the logic behind the water temp sensor causing the issue... If it was f**ked, a rev will not fix it. My temp gauge is working just fine so that gets ruled out I guess. When I get it tuned, ill get the tuner to check it over and clean any shit thats cleanable. Interestingly enough though, back when I was running a power FC it never did this. Always started perfectly. Going back to stock ecu(had stock, went pfc, now stock but going back to pfc soon), the problem came back.

Head gasket is most likely. The gasket will crack around the cylinder causing water to seep from the water gallery into the block and vica vera, oil into the coolant. Worst scenario is a cracked block or head which will incur a healthy bill. A head gasket will set you back about $400 for the gasket(if you go metal) and you will need a new stud set probably about $200 and then the labor. Probably going to have to do something about the water and oil in the block and head. I don't know whats involved in cleaning that shit out but water won't wash out oil... And I don't know how healthy it is to have coolant chemicals in the oil.

What is it that kills the motor? There are many factors but I would think the main ones are heat and detonation as well as maintenance. Running an ethanol fuel blend will bring down temps and increase power. Having 300rwkw won't kill the motor, its more how its used. My brothers rotor has 700hp and that is going for a rebuild now, after 6 years.

Why? Simon with the kando is making 500hp stock motor, with rpm 8000 red line and still going strong. If you can keep egt down and detonation, it should last long

No amount of car restarts fixed it but unplugging both cables in the back of the unit and plugging them back in fixed it.

I will probably get a new EBC if this one is not working. I will try the standard setup and Ive got another BOV to fit on if I need to. Ive got a 3" bellmouth dump pipe with 3" flanges and 3" to 3.5" HKS exhaust. I will get the tuner to gut my cat or fit a high flow cat during tuning.

We have a 3" hard pipe all the way to the connector to the AFM and then an Apexi power intake filter. Running a genuine hybrid intercooler with a HKS exhaust. Just need to sort out my cat as it is currently standard. Did you use the standard r33 blow off valve and did it hold boost well? I just need a pipe to connect my BOV back to my return. Also my boost controller(profec B spec 2) is playing up now. The lo icon in the top of the screen is flashing and this only started since I installed the turbo. I don't know whats going on there....

My profec b is doing as the op says. I know it is a bump but I need help. It was fine then I fitted a new turbo with new actuator and now hi low is blinking and it's not in setup mode... what can I check?

Ive now got the ART43SS(the original one) fitted onto my car. Currently untuned but this thing sounds so nice, and deep not like the standard turbo. You can definitely feel the low down difference but thats not to say its bad. By about 2900rpmish I was already making about 10psi on the 17psi actuator and held that for about a few more thou rpm. Felt nice, sounds VERY different. Even the exhaust note is different. The flutter when backing off throttle is awesome. Cant wait for this f**king rain to piss off so I can get it tuned! Will report back with my dyno and my review! EXCITEMENT!

But isn't that still the torque made by the engine to the wheels? The roller will measure the force put against it, how fast the wheels have pushed and turned the wheels in an amount of time thus giving you a calculation of the torque figure. My old car made 5600N torque, this is not a unit of measurement which is convertible to nm but I was told it is quite a healthy number for an RB25. I always understood torque and power as a punch. The torque is how hard, the power is how fast. But to have speed you need torque and with torque should create speed... Its something I am not familiar with. Diesel trucks produce huge torque but don't move, but if you stand them against a brick wall they will tear through it like butter..