SargeRX8

Hey, Is someone able to get the part number for an R33 GTST Series 2 for the 3 O rings you change when doing a timing belt? The cam and crank seals? Maybe the CAS sensor seal too? I downloaded this fast thing a while back, wouldn't install under w7. Deleted the stuff. But now I can run VM, if someone has a download link, can you PM me?

Hmm I would have thought the belt might slip and cause a squeal if the pump is seized. The easiest thing to do is pull that belt off the AC pump and see if it turns by hand. If you know anyone who works with AC's they can connect some shit up to the unit and tell you if its seized without pulling anything out/apart. That belt must be really tight on to stall your engine. Something risky/stupid to do would be to drive at say 5rpm and flick the switch on.... I wouldn't suggest it though.

Anyone heard of this thing? The guy claims its better than the standard Nissan but not quite up there with the higher end belts. Its $65 for that belt or my other options a blue gates belt. Should I just go with the gates belt?

Don't need the filler plug. Is you measure 2.8L of oil going into the box, you can fill from the shifter hole if its an R33 GTST. Castrol vmx is the stuff I used. If its locked out then it might be something more but as we suggested, change the fluids and see how it goes. First gear gets locked out when you are at moving speed. Maybe the mechanism which locks out first gear is stuck? Change the oils, check the plug at the bottom for metal shit to see how much is on it.

If anyone has the following suitable for an R33 series 2 GTST please PM me: Gates timing belt Genuine waterpump unless you can convince me to go aftermarket metal intake pipe 3" or 4" high flow cat, which can flow ALOT. gutted cat or stock cat so I can gut PM me, located in Sydney. No dicking around here, you got the parts Ive got the money. I dont need a timing belt kit, Ive sourced the bearings just need a belt and probably the pump.

Don't really see how thrashing it will damage the ability to get into first gear though. Does it feel like first is locked out or does it just grind? Unless he was revving the shit out of it and tickling the shifter into gear, its not easy to ruin first gear, is it? Get the fluid in the box changed, get the nulon additive(g70) then see how she goes. If she still isn't right, check the whole clutch hydraulic setup. Maybe a failing master or slave? I had the exact same problem in my old skyline. The spring in my master snapped into 4 pieces. The pedal occasionally got stuck but also did not build any pressure due to shit contaminating the oil.

It doesn't look like a writeoff. Your shock could be damaged, maybe the rear assembly, but there looks like no major body work which would indicate no damage to the chassis or chassis rails underneath. Don't be scared that you wont be able to sell it. Someone out there will buy the car for what it is regardless of history. As long as its sound, safe and healthy someone will gladly take it. Or you can do as I plan to do and keep the car until its time to put to rest. I really don't understand the excuse "selling due to starting a family". If my wife popped out a child right now, were still keeping the skyline!

I held off driving a family car all throughout my L and P plate times. The skyline was the first car I picked up since I got my fulls and enjoy every minute of it. Stay safe and enjoy dude, take care of your car and she will take care of you.

Then you should check your wiring make sure something isn't being triggered. It could be your alarm, my shitty alarm makes all these clicking noises. It comes from the shock sensor. Only happens when the car is off so maybe if it is your alarm, its failing? I too would have initially suspected CV joints. My rears make a clicking noise when engaging gear and going over bumps n shit.

Nothing had been changed and it was on there since we bought the car. I too suspect the adjustment is off. Ive never dealt with this kind of stuff before and worried if I pull it off, the shifter that is, I might have issues putting it back on. We diagnosed it by putting the back on stands as you did but we didn't attempt to change gears on the box directly. We shall give that a go and hope its the problem.

Get the catch can out of the equation and see if that makes a different. I run a sealed catch can, probably pointless but mine is hooked up from the second(exhaust side) breather then back infront of the turbo.

Hey guys. I know its not a skyline but I'm sure there is someone here familiar with them. We've got the C4 box with B&M shifter. It was all working fine until now. When you put it into reverse it doesn't go. The wheels are locked. 1, 2 and drive are fine. Reverse won't reverse and sometimes neutral also acts as a drive gear. Any idea what could be up with this? Could it be the adjustment on the shifter is out or internal box issue? Does anyone know any reputable service centers for these kind of gearboxes? Cheers The box was rebuilt to support the power the car was making.

How much for standard cat converter? Can pickup.

There is probably a small form factor computer under the chair. Its called a carputer. Basic computer connected to the head unit. Looks like he built it him self too. You can buy a empty double din housing off the net, buy a lilliput screen and a itx board with a core2 cpu.

This is what is convincing me to sell my PFC and get a carputer + nistune... Will speak to my tuner and if he is willing to give me a tune + ECU + install a couple other things in exchange for my current almost new PFC with hand controller then I may do it but I don't know how likely a tuner is to swap an ecu for another ecu, tune etc.

Ive had 2 PFC's never had any issues with knock or idle/cold start. In fact, my car starts up cold better and starts up warm better with the PFC. I have no idea why but on the stock ECU my car takes about 4 - 5 engine turns to start. With pfc its bang on the first turn. Ive only bought the PFC simply because it was in my old car and I have experienced its performance. I'm not saying nistune is bad but for me I like familiarity. Trying something new scares me.

I remember when I done the gearbox I loosened all the engine mounts n shit. I hope to God something is not out of balance. The car doesn't rock at all, and really I just installed this thing for looks... If it is the engine mounts it would be a pain in the arse but I wouldn't need to remove the engine, just raise it and remove the old ones. I checked them out, they aren't cracked or anything but after looking at my old engine mounts. One of them was f**ked to the shit house. Passenger side one.

Not far from my place does it http://www.lidcombeice.com.au/index.php?cPath=23&osCsid=sq93voohv0brdrugs247si4hp1 There are a few places.

I had an engine damper on my old car. Adjusted it as necessary to fit the old car and it was fine. Took it off that and put it into my next car which is also a series 2 1996 r33, only this time I had to extend the length by about 2cm... Any particular reason why there is 2cm difference? Also dropped a f**king bolt and it didn't fall to the ground so yay Ive got a lingering bolt somewhere in my engine crevices.

How did you find the whole process? What was the hardest and most frustrating part? Did you change the 4 studs which hold the turbo to the manifold?

My car done this with brand new coils. One of the coils died. Then they all died. New set works brilliantly. One of your cylinders isn't sparking. Unplug each coil one by one with the engine running to see which one does not make it run worse. When you unplug one and you don't notice a change, you know that cylinder setup is f**ked.

Take my warning, sockets and spanners WILL NOT fit over the bolt head. You need to use an open ended spanner and do f**king half cm turns. Out of the car. Trust me.

Just bought a SS 3" bellmouth dump pipe from JJR. Fits straight on. Exactly same style as old one. No issues with flap hitting. I have a Hypergear ATR43SS waiting to go onto my car with this dump... Should be sweet! Ill tell you though, the two bolts in the middle are a pain in the ass, especially the one closest to the strut tower. Good luck fitting any f**king tools down there. Seriously, if you can assemble the dump and turbo to each other out of the car do it that way. I done mine under the bonnet, and I could just hear the f**king leak. I tightened it up now and its fine but its a pain doing things the hard way and twice. There is no reason you can't fit it all in as one piece either... That's what Ill be doing when I do my turbo swap.

What would have caused this? Heat? Oil quality? Lack of fuel? Detonation?

Awesome. Gives my button a more tight, precise feel and also eliminated the window going up and down by it self. The way this switch works is a slider. The slider literally has no resistance so if your switch is broken to the shit, your window will go up and down to the slightest bumps. Fixed it up and my window now works in accordance with the controls. No more being retarded. Note on a series 2 skyline, the power amplifier for the window control is built into the switch system. You don't need to undo anything. Just take the switch box off the mounting bracket and grip the driver window switch between your thumb and index finger and yank it off, glue it, pop it back on after 10 mins. Might be a little hard to press the switch the first time but just jam it where its gotta go. Don't pull out the passenger lock button, it wont go back in my pressing it in. I had to melt a pin in to lock the switch, clip the button in then remove the pin.