SargeRX8

You can definately change the waterpump your self. New pump(you can go cheaper aftermarket or stick with a Nissan) and gasket. Need new coolant too. How many KM? Might even want to consider a timing belt change if the car has age because its not very often water pumps just break.

This is not a rant thread, or a thread made of anger. I seek logic and a proper answer. I had just had a set of yellow jackets fitted into my car. They came in after a new clutch was fitted in so as you may have guessed, yes I have been driving like an old lady with many low down shifts and slow accelerations to bed the clutch in. Both have been in the car for a week, maybe two tops. Today my car turned into a WRX. The sound of a cylinder not firing immediately caught my attention. After about 5 mins of diagnosis, I pin pointed it down to cylinder 2 and not the cylinder or spark plug but the coil pack. Fitting in my old coil remedied the problem and now Ive sent my request for replacement or a solution. I'm now wondering as to what could cause such premature failure. Heat? Bad build? Something else? Ive run my coils without the coil cover to let out the excess heat. I have a standard bonnet(no vents) so no water or foreign material could get into it. Physical inspection the coil looks healthy. Any ideas as to the cause? Could there somehow be insufficient grounding contact? Can I test this with a multimeter and check resistance or something to see if there is break inside the unit?

Any 3" bellmouth dump pipe?

Wouldn't really need to fill with oil, just leave abit in and as said turn it by hand. Water is what you want out as it will corrode from being stagnant for so long. No amount of corrosion inhibitors will stop that. And as said above, fill all openings with clean clotch or cover with bags. Even after a fair while of not running my old motor still turned nicely, still had a nice clean coat of oil visible parts. To make turning easier, remove plugs so the pressure can escape the cylinder.

Do you recall the cost? The trumpet I have is not screwed I don't think. It has 4 hex screws holding it...

Hey all, Ive got the Turbosmart Supersonic BOV with trumpet attachment thing. The trumpet looks removeable which is good. Does anyone know if its possible to get a piece to plumb it back as my stock BOV isn't going to hold. Also I have two stock Nissan BOV's, is it possible to weld one shut and keep it mounted as this one is fixed in a different location. Any ideas? Does anyone want to trade? It hasn't been used for more than a few hours. Cheers.

As above. Hard to config but perfect control.

I used the power source for the headunit. 13 months on in both skylines and no popped fuses. My headunit also has a large LCD and still runs mint. If t really does concern you use any old igniion wire as trigger on a relay and run dedicated power.

PM sent

Why doesn't anyone ever post the cost of the clutch? How much is this super monty and how much is the full monty?

I just want to ask, if I run the setup the way described above, is this for a sealed catch can? Ive got a catch can with a breather filter ontop and I have a feeling this will draw in unmetered air while connected back to the intake. I can do the following: Connect it with the filter in tact, intercepting the pipes as you've stated and see if it breaths in uncounted air Block the filter with a blanker piece and connect it as advised above. Connect intake side to one inlet on the can, exhaust side to the other then block the return on the exhaust side and plumb it back into the standard intake infront of the turbo. Any suggestions?

Oh God, there is more than one?

I was driving down woodville road today with a mate in the car. Look in my rear view to see what I thought was an Nissan GTR! We slowed down to get a closer look and noticed P plates. I slowed down some more and it was a 350GT with a GTR style bonnet, front bar, headlights, GTR emblem on the grill. Seriously looked like a GTR. ... ... ... It actually didn't look too bad but I feel it is going to be a laughing stock. Anyone seen it around?

For an R33, this is a pain in the arse, but it would be an awesome method as the alternator is always off when the car is off! Dang.

Cooler sold to me If you are interested in selling that intake pipe in your first Rb25 picture, let me know. Or tell me, is it custom made or bought? If so how much and where from? Maybe you can PM me a pic of your intake system(infront of the turbo)?

Go to Ford Thomson on Dixon road or street off churc street. 14.85, ig ot the receipt.

i got it from Nissan for 14 but there is a 3 week wait on it. You can get em fro kudos for 30. Nissan get them from japan they don't hold stock locally.

I've had an aftermarket atmo bov on stock ecu and rb25det r33 and it ran fine as stock. Even blocked it for flutter awesomeness didn't cause it to stall or idle rough idle.

I'm leavin the pcv alone and just trying to do basically as above has posted but I don't get it. I think I need to flip my can as the points in the can are too close. This is the closest to stock setup but at least it will remove some of that gunk. Gonna be fun cleaning the oil out of the cooler setup.

Are you changing the turbo studs too? The 4 which hold the turbo on? If so what length and pitch are the standard ones? I need 4 new ones. My old manifold bolts looked like steel stud copper nut. Piece of piss to take both out after 30thou driving. New car has stock shit so I don't plan to ever take the manifold off lol. Need to replace the turbo ones as new turbo is going on. I've got some studs suitable but far too long and I really don't want to be here cutting away...

The turbo wont 'cut out' so to speak. Do you hear the turbo stop spooling or do you just feel a lack of power? Could be many many things. O2 sensor is good for a change, its probably never been changed before. If you rev it past 3500 without boosting(light throttle all the way), does it still limp? Get a compression test done or a leak down test done. Car seems too stock to be suffering like this. Spark plugs, coil packs, O2 sensor, fuel pump etc. There are alot of things to check out. Chuck a consult cable onto it see if it reads anything(although I think the check engine will light up, but don't hold me on that).

There is a chance the spring is broken in your master. Mine broke, could hardly get in and out of first. Best to diagnose everything outside before you pull the box out.

Its not fitted in the car atm. It was fitted on my old car venting to atmo with the two lines from the intake and exhaust side going to the can and the other outlets blocked off. I want to run it recirculated here. The blue line replaces the filter and plumbs back into the intake pipe. Will this work? My main concern is the suction side is too close to the two input breather lines so alot of oil might just go back up into the intake. I could jam something into the bottom of it to push all the mesh shit up. Should I just run atmo and be done with it? Maybe flip the can upside down, put a nipple in the drain hole and cut off and thread a bolt into the old nipple? The picture is to scale and a little technical.

If I want to do this, does this mean I need to open my fuel tank again coz I'm wondering if its safe to increase the wires outside the tank and not the inside(increased amperage and voltage flow will heat up the smaller wire inside). Are you guys changing the wires inside the fuel tank(from inside the cap to the fuel pump it self)? If so what wires are you using because I really wouldn't trust regular wires near petrol as the plastic/shielding shit is bound to wear off and crack like arse and I really don't want sparks inside the fuel tank. In my old skyline I noticed they added two wires in place for each terminal going to the lid of the pump but inside was the same(I think). What I done was remove the whole fuel tank lid and pump setup out of my old car and dropped into the new one and just plugged in the standard loom.

How much is the super monty costing you? I got a carbotic clutch and honestly even now and its only 100km old, there isn't much shudder. Its more noticeable in reverse but it will wear in. It cost 380 and its rated to about 550nm torque. People don't understand, a clutch does not slip from power it slips from torque.