SargeRX8

My car originally had the teins. They were hard and not to my liking. I bought a second hand set of bilsteins and put them on but the front felt too soft. It literally felt like driving on a sponge, like the shock was collapsed. I don't know if its spring or shock related. Maybe not a good idea putting stock springs on bilstein shocks?

Tell him if he remembers SargeRX8, I went to get a tune from him but couldn't because his computer didn't work and I tried to help him fix it. From there, if you get me a price for a full power FC tune and I like i like, count me in. I'll be fitting a new timing belt onto my car then on goes the ecu turbo and injectors.

The front were bilsteins but replaced with teins.

Seems like only the front. I'm running the rear bilsteins just fine but the front im running my teins.

GTR radiators won't fit the GTST they are abit longer... Got my self my waterpump and timing belt. Would prefer to trade the cooler with someone locally for a return flow cooler. Currently in talk with a chap in melbourne about a cooler change.

Maybe its the configuration with the springs on their. Standard R33 springs. Going over bumps and stuff I can literally feel the car just bang so hard because the suspension is very soft. Could it just be the shitty springs? Is it a bad idea using stock springs with these shocks? I'll take them to pedders to test them just make sure they are good, then ill get a set of springs if thats the case coz I'm over these teins.

Ive got a set of 6 standard coils. Upgraded to yellow jackets. PM me. $120 the lot.

ALSO HAVE A R33 SERIES 2 LSD AND THE R33 ABS CONTROLLER $200 a piece. Both work flawlessly.

Noises are disgusting to diagnose, seriously. I just eliminated most of the noises from my car(most of them just being shit laying around/rolling around in the cabin) but now Ive got a f**king irritating sound coming from the passenger side. It sounds like a rubber/plastic and occurs over minor and major bumps and shit on the road. Mum was like just turn the music on, every car makes a noise just dont listen to it. That is true but when I know its there, I want it gone! Might have to check out my swaybar bushes and links.

No idea where its from. Came with my car. From factory I doubt they come with the faceplate fitment but thats how it came in my car so thats how its being sold. It looks pretty mint too. $80 to your door via registered post. Ill PM you. I need a timing belt ASAP. Buy more gear, fund my timing belt lol.

If RB20 has the exact same pipe with bends, then yes it will fit. Its the pipe from the turbo to the cooler.

Done. Not pictured is the other parts(solenoid and wiring).

Oil cooler sold pending payment.

Has he got photos of this gear? I'm very interested in the 4" intake pipe. Can pick up too. Also the Nismo seat covers. PM me or show me pics. I can come tomorrow to pickup.

$580 to your door for cooler, all piping, and the oil cooler setup delivered via Ego. Just got the estimate on their site and it was around $30 bux but that was guesstimate size weight etc.

With or without springs? Are you still using the whiteline springs from the GB?

Hey all, Got the following parts to trade or sell. Genuine HDI FMIC for R33 GTST. Has the genuine HDI hose clamps(some of them anyway), the internal fin design, the mounting point design etc. Asking $350, note this is attached to my car, read further below. Oil Cooler Kit. At the moment, this is an EOI but may get rid of it. Kit cost about $400 brand new. Its from Justjap. I haven't fitted it but I bought it off a guy here. Want my money back. $200 FIRM. Turbosmart supersonic BOV. Comes attached to the pipe which connects to the stock R33 Turbo. This will swap straight into your car. Almost brand new. $170 Electronic Boost Controller HDI $75. Hi Lo includes everything you need. This thing taps into factory loom. NFI where but there must be shit out there to tell you how to install it. R33 quater panels. Pretty good condition. Includes badges and indicator lights, sonic silver. $70 each(passenger side has door ding from some f**k wit, not that bad either). Passenger side air bag. Get this bastard cheap, $100! R33 tail lights, sonic silver. $100 ono a pair Also got a set of Tein coilovers which are too hard for my liking. Will trade these for regular, aftermarket R33 GTST suspension. Bilstein shocks etc. $700 Got a set of bilstein shocks here with standard springs. I need to get these tested. I don't know if they are "flat" but they feel too soft. EOI on these. NOW THE TRADE PART I am after the following: Metal intake pipe 3" or 4" to suit an R33 GTST Suspension, Show me what you have. I don't have a great deal to spend so factor this in. Return flow intercooler (permitted I get rid of my intercooler) Gates timing belt or other heavy duty timing belt, something new. New water pump for R33 GTST Series 2 Aftermarket radiator(with or without thermos if available) must not be leaking. PM me guys. If you want my intercooler, ill need a couple of days to organise my self a new cooler so factor this in. No time wasters please. Dont low ball. I'm open to offers. Photos on request but really everything is what it is. Everything works etc. All parts do not include post(maybe Ill be generous). Can post or pickup in Sydney! PM me. If you've got parts I need, Ive got the money you want.

How much would it cost to rebuild bilstein shocks? Anyone have any idea? Is it worth it? They are the yellow ones, same as SK group buy but not from him as they don't have circlip for height adjustment.They feel flat, over humps and dips they sag and the chassis can hit pretty hard sometimes.

You would be hard pressed getting that power out of a stock car. You should see closer to 180rwkw with a boost controller, fmic and exhaust. You will run rich and your fuel will vanish. You might even have a car which won't like the extra boost and just spit the dummy. Just keep it stock then down the track strap on a turbo, ecu, injectors, fmic.

I had brand new yellow jackets fail in a matter of weeks. One died gave me five running cylinders. Then the misfires started. Try the cheapest, easiest option. Spark plugs. BCP7RES. Cost me $20 for all 6. Then try get some stock coils and fit them of IF the plugs didn't help. It sounds like a machine gun as others have said. A very fast sequence of fart attacks.

Interested in the radiator, suspension(if after market) and the A pillar with gauges. Inbox me if you're going to separate. Need a thicker core radiator to install when my belt goes on and that looks thicker than stock. Do you know brand or specs? Also interesting to see the passenger side air bag in a series 1.1.5 didn't have the air bag, did it?

Listen for noise coming out from the master. It shouldn't squeal, squeak or make any noise really. It should be smooth the whole way down and the whole way up. You don't really want to test them by removing them as you will then need to bleed the whole clutch system again. You kind of do want to hit the nail on the head, first time. If you really wanted to you can find someone who has a worm camera(flexible camera with a light at the end, super cheap sell them) and try to get into the box and check out the clutch. Or at least check the inside. If you find a f**kload of clutch material in the bellhousing, you know its worn to the shit house. You don't need a garage. Any flat surface and the car lifted up will be enough. I done my clutch, my self, in my back yard. First time Ive ever done a clutch. Hard but not impossible. I too was told I had a HD clutch in there. I probably did but it was roasted. Either they done a DIY them self and didn't bother getting the flywheel machined or they didn't bed the piece of shit in as the surfaces were glazed/burnt which indicated alot of slipping. If you've changed the oil and its still locking out, it could be internal box issue. If it was the clutch it self, it would still go in but grind in. You said its completely locked out. If you can get partially into the gear but not all the way in, it could be a syncro or just something normal. But completely locked out... Wouldn't be the clutch. Its a strange problem you got there... Take it to a shop have them sus it out without removing anything just so you can get an idea of whats up. Call some box specialist and ask them what are the causes of first gear being locked out.

Filling through any of those side holes is very painful. Its sooooo slow. You're either pumping oil or waiting for gravity through a pipe and funnel.

Up in the air, all gears, apart from park, are acting like drive. Even neutral is driving the wheels... Not lightly either, they can only be stopped with the brakes.

What car is the cooler and piping designed for? Will it fit an r33 without cutting anything up?