SargeRX8

As long as you get punched into your seat, your torque is good. My turbo is on the car, once I finish my install then chuck a high flow cat on it and it's tune time. Your from parramatta, how far was jez from you? I can't drive the car hard at all so a little worried about the drive. Did you take the f3?

Wow and might I add that Ive done a clutch and a timing belt, but this turbo install without a doubt is the worst, most fiddliest shit I have ever f**king done. The car pissed coolant everywhere, the f**king nuts to hold to the manifold are a pain in the ass to tighten, the middle bolt on the back of the turbo is a f**king pain to tighten, screwing in the banjo bolts omfg the list goes on. Without a doubt the worst job I have ever done. Then it starts raining on me and I cant continue until tomorrow. Hopefully I can get those rear bolts tight enough and the tension I put on the turbo to manifold bolts is good enough(3 are very tight one is not as tight as they are). Shall be interesting to see what headaches tomorrow carries.

Ive attached pictures of the boost controller and the short shifter kit. Short shifter kit might need 2 6mmx50mm bolts, couple of $ from bunnings. Pms replied and its a first in best dressed but I will be giving preference to people who will be picking gear up or trading it for parts I need. Located near Merrylands. Try to keep everything in a PM and when you're keen ill drop you my mobile number to come past to pick up the stuff.

Ah true, I see what you mean now lol.

7psi under this turbo is not equal to 7psi in the standard turbo. Ill be driving like a bitch until its tuned lol, just wanted to make sure it should be fine.

Also when plumbing it back in, try to point it towards the turbo inlet rather than straight down or towards the AFM. If the air hits the AFM, it will run like arse. I had a metal intake that would stall every single time air flowed through the BOV. The way the pipe was designed could result in air hitting the afm and the engine filling up some fuel for the air causing the engine to stall because the throttle is closed.

Woop. Tomorrow I begin installation then off to the advan.

Ive got some free time tomorrow and on the weekend to fit my turbo onto my car. Thing is I won't be able to get it tuned until Tuesday. If I fit the turbo in and just drive the car like normal, no boosting or f**king around(I rarely do anyway), will it be fine? Ive driven 600km when bedding in my clutch without ever hitting more than 1psi so I'm sure I can do it. Will it affect the "cruise" style driving? I probably won't drive the car only when I gotta pick mum up from the shops etc. I just don't want to wait until sunday/monday to start only to have something not go to plan and then have to wait even longer with the car off the road and miss my tune. Cheers guys.

Pretty sure thats carbon fiber vinyl overlay. My car has it. Looks pretty awesome if applied correctly. If anyone is in Sydney, give me your gear surround and Ill do it for you for $15.

Hey all, Got the following parts to trade or sell. Genuine HDI FMIC for R33 GTST. Has the genuine HDI hose clamps(some of them anyway), the internal fin design, the mounting point design etc. Asking $350, note this is attached to my car, read further below. Turbosmart supersonic BOV. Comes attached to the pipe which connects to the stock R33 Turbo. This will swap straight into your car. Almost brand new. $170 Electronic Boost Controller HDI $60. Hi Lo includes everything you need. This thing taps into factory loom. NFI where but there must be shit out there to tell you how to install it. Passenger side air bag. Get this bastard cheap, $100! R33 tail lights, sonic silver. $80 ono a pair Also got a set of Tein coilovers which are too hard for my liking. Will trade these for regular, aftermarket R33 GTST suspension. Bilstein shocks etc. $700 A engine damper kit to suit R33 gtst, works fine just don't need it. $50 Short shifter kit for R33 gtst, this may fit others I don't know. Very short shift compared to stock, very firm, solid piece so does pass through abit of noise. Nothing you cant get used to $50 Cluster showing 12xxxxkm, everything working perfectly $100 R33 series 2 diff, feels pretty tight to turn by hand. Worked fine when on the car $200 R33 ABS pump $200 ono. I am after the following: Metal intake pipe 3" or 4" to suit an R33 GTST Suspension, Show me what you have. I don't have a great deal to spend so factor this in. Return flow intercooler (permitted I get rid of my intercooler) Aftermarket radiator(with or without thermos if available) must not be leaking. PM me guys. If you want my intercooler, ill need a couple of days to organise my self a new cooler so factor this in. No time wasters please. Dont low ball. I'm open to offers. Photos on request but really everything is what it is. Everything works etc. All parts do not include post(maybe Ill be generous). Can post or pickup in Sydney! PM me. If you've got parts I need, Ive got the money you want.

Ah lol should have phrased my self a little better but yeah, just get that distilled water from woolies or kmart or something and top her up. Cheers for pointing it out!

Unfortunately the whole thing had to come apart bar the radiator. I could have done it yesterday without taking the radiator out but I changed the water pump so had to get as much coolant out of there. Anyway, just let the car run for a few mins cold start and I can say there is almost absolutely no noise from the belt. No belt slapping indicating loose belt and no loud whirring. Lets see how it holds up when things get a little warm later. And here are some tips for people who are going to do their belt: You do NOT need to remove the radiator. Depending on your pulley puller, you should be fine. I made my own and it worked a treat without removing the rad. Don't tension the water pump/alternator belt until you fit the clutch fan back on, if you do, good luck getting the pulley to sit flush. Mark the belt on the outside with liquid paper for the initial setup, makes checking the markings a piece of piss. Start applying the belt to the crank, left exhaust cam and then right intake cam; doesn't matter if you do right or left but do the bottom first! Jack the car up if you are anything above 5ft tall, and if you are taller than 6ft, remove the f**king bonnet if you have to.

I'm not planning to leave it as it doesn't sound normal at all and the excess stress will only lead to faster wear and tear.fingers crossed I don't need to completely strip it. When we fit the belt on we done it there times to be 200% certain all three markings on the belt lined up with those on the engine and they did.i applied minor tension and turned the motor two times and noticed the markings changed their position so we took it off again and put it back on and the same thing happened. Then I said to my self that it will always do that because the crank gear is smaller than the rest. eventually after so many turns they will line up. it was more crucial the actual marks on the can gears and crank lined up and they did every time. Even the original belt was not lined up. Going to retension tomorrow. I'll reduce it until I can do the 45 degree twists with medium pressure.

I changed my timing belt and water pump. It started up just fine, it eliminated that old sound my car was making. I let it idle for abit while I bled the air in the coolant. Then the revs started to lower from 1000 cold to the 650rpm warm level and it made this disgusting sound. What the hell? If I rev it the sound goes and it only comes when its idling. I'm using the blue gates belt and brand new NSK bearings. Did I over tension the belt? f**king ass f**k I was so excited when it started up, it sounded so clean and smooth because my old bearings and belt were worn to the shit. Also if the belt is too tight, can I remove the lower cover without taking the harmonic balancer off again? I really don't want to feel like I'm doing it all f**king again wow. I was able to push and pull the belt about 5 - 7mm each way on each length of belt with moderate force. I didn't tighten the thing ALL the way, it was kind of abit more than half way. I put the allen key in, relaxed it to neutral position then tensioned it up as tight as I could then released about 30% to 40% then tightened up the bolt. Everything was torqued up to spec.

Change the water in the battery see if that helps... But seriously it cost no more than $60 for a good century battery, just get a new one. My battery goes shit after a week or two of not driving. Turns over very slowly, not fast enough to fire the engine so needs to be jumped.

I don't know what to suspect anymore. I thought it was my timing belt but I'm just not sure what it is. Its been there, well forever. Using sougi s6000 oil or what ever it is(the good shit for skylines). It does not affect performance. Read the desc in youtube. I'm going to change my timing belt and bearings incase its them(if its not doesnt matter, I'm at 82000km anyway). Also does anyone know the size of the damn crank bolt holding the balancer on? Its an Rb25det r33 series 2. Also is the best way to tighten it the same way you loosen it(4th and handbrake) or should I rip out the starter and jam a screw driver in there(the same way I tightened my flywheel).

Just use timber under the wheels. I use the scissor jack as they are quite low, then lift that up abit then get the trolley under there.

One of your cylinders is not sparking. When its idling, unplug each coil pack lead, one by one until you find the one which does NOT cause the engine to die even more. Basically listen to how it sounds now, then find one which you can unplug which does not change the engine sounds, rpm, etc. Once you find that, you've narrowed the problem down to that coil pack, spark plug, part of the loom etc. I'd suspect either the spark plug it self or the coil pack is gone. How do I know? First hand experience. I was driving normally then BAM, WRX time.

I'd be keen on the boost controller kit.

s2 sonic silver

Bump guys, neg on prices.

Can they check them out of the car?

Mine leaked. No more than 200ml fuel for the same reason, busted seal after pump install. Wouldn't really affect fuel economy but I don't know how comfortable you are with a petrol leak... Gasket cost 15 from nissan but 3 weeks to get to me so I ensured never fill a full tank until I fixed it.

If your in sydney I'll trade you a 3 inch bellmouth for it and ill swap them out too.

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