SargeRX8

Oil restructures are one option but what about oil drains in the back of the head to the sump? also will the slight increase chamber volume and drop in compression affect tune and allow a little more boost to compensate?

Pretty sure those act like little valves and move up and down.the injector has a solenoid in it. That controls the injector opening and closing. It controls how far it opens. That thing there moves up and down to let fuel pass through. I think it's rooted dude.

The way my mate drives his car is a joke. He thrashes it beyond thrashing and I tell him why didn't you just buy a second hand one. He bought it. Brand new, and treats it like shit.

True statement made a couple of posts above but one would immediately assume that when with the way its setup, a thin hose for feed and a relatively larger hose for return, that if any junk and desposits were going to contaminate and block the lines, the thinner line would go first. But as a general rule, it is always best to look at all your lines to ensure what is and what isn't going on. Before you strap on another turbo you might want to consider getting an oil analysis done. It will tell you if you have excess wear and rubbish in the oil. You'll also want to drain and clean everything out and ensure all the old shit is out of the car just to be sure. Run some oil flush through it followed by some cheaper oil then put your good stuff in there after letting it drain. Its off the road so let it drain really well.

Lol, an inline filter feeding the turbo? What a stupid idea. People who drive cars like Ford XR6T, VW golf GTI and other turbo charged cars sometimes forget they are driving a turbo charged car and do not service them. I know a guy with a VW turbo who does his services every 20000km. I tell him you have a turbo there which does not like dirty oil. His response? "That just happens on shitty skylines". Lol. People also need to remember that there are manufacturing faults. Its not quite fair if Garrett or any other manufacturer just blames the end user. Sometimes shit can go wrong because of them. I bought a GT3582R turbo off a guy. Turbo done 200km on his car(all dyno work). When I got the turbo home, rear wheel was destroyed. It was replaced under warranty but I got a refund from him anyway. They tried to blame him but he always ran a filter, his engine is still healthy etc. In the end there are manufacturing defects which could happen. Some companies need to get off their high horse and put their selves in our positions.

What? That is not true. My pedal was crackled and it made clicking noises only while being press. It's just like a tick tick sound.

Ill be on on this for my 33. Looks mint dude. Very nice and innovative.

If my car is back, safe and sound, Ill be coming down to this again.

A gt3071 is more than enough for your power needs and will spool quicker than the 76.

Advan Performance not Advan wheels lol. Well I haven't got a call back and I was just looking at the fuel in our can down stairs(98 and 91). In small amounts they look identical. Hopefully all is fine because I really don't want to have to do anything more.

As said above, it sounds crisper. I cant judge on performance. My car was stock running stock cat. I upgraded the turbo and cat at the same time so I am in no position to draw a line on performance but all I can say is if it can flow better it should perform better. General rule of thumb, to an extent.

Since I upgraded my turbo and cat, my HKS Silent Power is so much louder. I love this exhaust to bits, the way it sound the growl is like the angriest tiger you will ever hear. At idle/cruising in 5th sure it might be legal but lol there is no way in f**k stick this exhaust is legal at stand still with a rev. I would have went HKS, Ive heard both exhausts and prefer HKS. Ive also got the JJR bellmouth dump. As for installing your self, yeah I wouldn't pay someone to do this job. HKS has a little hot dog thing in the middle. That cat is good but its ceramic. You've spent a fair penny on a brand new exhaust, may as well get a metalcat or even a venom metal cat. Ive got the venom 5" body 100cpsi cat on my car. Shall see how it goes when I get the car back.

My car is down at the tuners(yay) and got a call at 8:47am today. I asked them to fit my injectors on and change my fuel filter. I was then asked what fuel did I use. I said 98 Vortex. He said are you sure its not E10? I'm like dead set 100%, Ive got the receipt. Then he said the fuel is clear and not the usual colour of 98. This scared me and also made me angry as I have been filling up at the station down the road for ages. He said don't worry we will test the fuel to make sure it is what it is and if there are any issues we will call you back. I still haven't(and hope not to) got a call back. Would it be fair to say that with the small amount of fuel trickling from the fuel line is not enough to see its colour? Ive had fuel squirt here and there before(when changing the pump) and it has always looked clear. Only when taking a large amount did it get that yellowish tinge to it. If it does turn out to be E10 fuel, I am really going to lose my temper at this petrol station and demand compensation. Ive got receipts and when you test fuel I am sure it can be traced to the supplier of the fuel. Will this petrol station be held responsible if it is in actual fact E10 fuel coming out of the Vortex 98 tank? Is my theory likely? That in small amounts its not enough to show colour? I also never thought E10 was clear, fuel has always been coloured(Its dyed apparently). Any input or comments are welcome.

Don't think you will get that power from a high flow...

Normal operating temp for my car is 70 to 82c. These colder winter days I'm around 71 on pfc casual driving. If I used the nismo piece the thermostat will almost always be opened, unnecessarily, causing faster wear due to the water cooling down when it isn't needed to.

Thank God I didn't get the xforce, heard so much about them collapsing under heat.

Wrap it up in take then silicone. They are all going to fail the same way so do them all.

It's a joke, I payed 110 express shipped to my door from japan, took about 3 days too.

They are genuine nsk bearings but I think it is a dayco belt, but then again dayco apparently makes nissan belts. I bought my bearings from him and a gates belt from just jap for 200 on the dot. Not much noise from the belt either. Message him tell him you need the nsk bearings and genuine belt he well set you up.

I'm just asking a noob question but why do you need the restrictor? Is this due to the head gasket change or something else? I thought you change the restrictor if you upgrade oil pump to maintain same flow in oil around the engine... Also noticed many different thicknesses for headgaskets. Does increasing the headgasket size increase bore capacity by that little tiny bit thus requiring a tweak up of the tune? I'm not nit picking, I genuinely don't know.

If you've got a manual boost controller it should be fine. Its mainly with incorrectly configured EBC that the issue occurs.

Ah my ears. The car doesn't know it has a 100k service due. Anyhow that sound is very odd. Ive heard all sorts of belts but no belt has ever sounded like that. It sounds very metallic. You can take the belts off one by one see if the problem goes away but that seriously doesn't sound like a belt. Your bearings in for the timing belt could be on their way out. Too many things to suggest.

Your clutch is not being fully disengaged. Symptoms covered above. My car did the same, the spring in the master was broken into 3 pieces. Occasionally it would drive fine then at time it would just not get in or out of gears. I'd do the cheapest and easiest options first. Box out is a pain in the arse. These exedy hhhd clutches like breaking things. I went with something custom and the pedal feel is identical to stock but with massive clamp load and 5 puk clutch.

Would be awesome if Nissan had like a temp probe style flow sensor. Could simply tap it into the cooler pipe. I don't like the above methods... Silicone stands between you and that thing blowing off under high boost.

What boost controller? Have you set it right? My old car with a profec b spec 2 would punch then hit the limiter then I lose boost and it goes gutless then kicks back in. Chucked it on the dyno and my boost graph was a f**king heart beat readout, up and down. Stock turbo has a 7psi actuator. Switch your boost controller off and see how it runs on 7psi. Leave wastegate connected obviously just use a direct line to the inlet on the wastegate and 7psi will push it open.