SargeRX8

Ive got a series 2 and my old skyline too. I wanted to go pull out the relay box from my old series 2 r33 but it didn't have one. I don't know if my current one has one but when I put the windows down(or up, just as long as I use them), sometimes I get like a buzzing sound from the switches and sometimes it goes up abit by it self. Is the switch box fixable using the same method? Does the series 2 have this separate module?

Are you going to with the same in line setup? A sandwich plate on a sandwich plate will still let the oil filter filter the oil but it requires double the length of hose. scotty is going to show me pix of a thermostat he might have. Options are still open so.

Timing can cause compression issue but it can't be that bad.... A cylinder might never be able to compress if one of the valves is open but if your timing is that far out, I would be surprised if you didn't bend your valves and they aren't sealing. Adjust the timing your self if you know how. Remove belt and slowly line up all markings to 0 degrees. Do a leak down test so you can source the leak. did you inspect the head when you replaced the gasket? Reading your thread over you seem to have over looked the head completely...

Do you still have the mocal? Id consider the greddy thermostat but for the same price I can get the inline setup. If I get the greddy one I'd have to run a sandwich plate on a sandwich plate to use my oil relocator and I need to know if this is a bad thing to do...

Observe the below, detailed and to scale diagram of my intended oil cooler setup. I currently have an oil cooler setup so I don't want to hear anyone saying sell it and buy one with the thermostat. Anyway this is my idea as below. 1 sandwich plate with built in thermostat for the oil cooler(Mocal branded) 1 sandwich plate for oil relocator all the hosing and the bla bla parts. Is this a good idea using a sandwich plate on a sandwich plate? Ive also attached a second picture which shows the use of an inline oil thermostat which opens at 82C. The first option is messy but saves about $100. This setup will cost me about $80 The second option is nice, neat and cost about $190. I payed $200 for the oil cooler plus relocator kit so keeping it as cheap as possible would be great. Its a just jap oil cooler 10an fittings. Input would be greatly appreciated.

You are joking right? R33 Series 2 from a GTST sell for no more than $300 from what Ive seen. Ive had one for sale for $200 for almost a year now and its still here with me.

Any particular reason this would be happening? Worn bushings? The car has been in an incident before but also the shocks up front are pretty old. Drives very straight, balanced and aligned just fine, camber is a little out on both sides due to castor arms. But I cant think as to why it would be sitting like this. Would it be chassis or shock related? They are the older Tein HR adjustable coilovers for R33 GTST.

The oil sandwich plate takes a 3/8 UNF Fine bolt. I tested this by going to Bursons and fitting it into a 3/8 UNF Fine nut. The oil temperature sender has been previously installed in one of these: http://www.justjap.com/store/product.php?productid=17873&cat=&page=1 This unit which are 1/8 NPT. The man at the counter said that all oil temp senders and oil pressure senders use a standard 1/8 npt and its the odd one which is something different. He thought it was m10 x 1.0 as it went about 2 threads into a m10 x 1.0 bolt. That is the same oil adapter as this: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/OIL-FILTER-SANDWICH-PLATE-4-OIL-GAUGE-SENSOR-SENDER-BL-/120695420638?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c1a01f6de The HKS/Greddy units also use 1/8NPT. How much to machine an adapter?

I guess I can but I'm a lazy man and work has had me really really busy... I guess I can ring around or shop online... Just thought id ask here, give some $ to some SAU member.

Ive got a sandwich plate which takes a 3/8 UNF Fine and a oil temp sensor which fits into a M10 x 1.0mm Which I believe is a standard 1/8npt thread. Can anyone here make me one or tell me where to source it from? Obviously $ is to be had. It needs to screw into the sandwich plate by about 1cm and allow oil to flow through to the sensor. PM me or post here Cheers.

If these fit a R33 GTST I am very keen. PM Sent

Blown caps are easy to find. Measure the resistance of the resistors and see if they are in accordance with their ratings. Or just but a new taco our test one out somewhere

If it still puts the power down, as said above, I wouldn't jump into the rebuild right away... Enjoy her. Ive seen a few RB's with 180000+kms still unbuilt and still making nice power. Seriously, until its something major, or you plan to do some big performance upgrades, there is no point. When you do the rebuild you replace everything anyway, you don't reco it.

Yeah, I'm not too keen on using the starter motor to get the nut off. Ive taken every single nut Ive ever undone by breaker bar so Ill stick to this method. As for locking the cams etc, Ive just watched a few videos and people seem to put a plate inbetween the teeth of the cam gears to prevent them turning. Probably not necessary but just as a precaution. IF something did happen to move out of place, would I feel it when turning the engine by hand? The guide does say you need to turn it by hand to add tension to the spring and just make sure its sitting right. I'm going to get a tube of liquid paper and mark the spots properly just so they are clearly visible.

Also just want to say that the thread size is M20-x1.5-6H. Searching the Ryco site there are many with this thread of various seem sizes. Is it ok to use a filter with a larger outer seem but a smaller rubber gasket which fits properly or should I get a filter which fits flush with the mount? The size Ive got to work with is 78mm. I was looking at the Z56B as its a biggish filter with a 66mm diameter gasket but a 87mm sized filter housing.

Why not just plug a standard ECU into your car? I don't think people will be comfortable putting a potentially engine damaging ECU into their car...

Ive got a oil relocation kit. Doesn't take the standard Ryco Z145A oil filter. I went to buy a filter and the guy gave me a cooper WZ445(or wx445, cant remember, cbf checking). The oil filter is tiny compared to the ryco z145a originally used on my rb25. Are there larger alternatives which fit the thread pattern of a z445 oil filter? He said the oil filter will increase the oil pressure... Its a cooler kit from Just Jap but I don't plan to fit the cooler until I get the thermostat. Cheers guys.

As long as everything lines up, it should be fine. As Aggroman said, so long I don't move anything after its off, it should be good. But I'll stick with my original method of locking things down. 4th gear is what I'm gonna use. That bolt is torqued up about the same as the flywheel bolts. I undone two sets of flywheels so ill use the same technique. I will have a mechanic with me while I do it. Just need to buy my kit now!

Thats them haha, fat greek guy.

What I recon is line it up to 0° so cylinder one is top dead center then jam something between the cam gear teeth to lock them in place. It wouldn't be ready to turn the engine crank, esp if you put it into 4th gear after you line it up. That's what I'm going to do. Line it up, put it in gear, lock it.

http://meetdallasberry.com/files/GuideChanging-the-Timing-Belt-on-a-RB25DET-4.pdf I think I'm gonna give this a go lol. Actually looks and reads alot easier than changing a clutch. Before I pull the old belt n shit off I'll ensure all the markings are in place so it can be ligned up properly. And any old pully puller will do!

Final Drive or Final Stage? I know the guy there if its Final Stage, ill go get a quote from him and see what he says haha. Most of his workers are under 22 too.

As I thought. Its not like oil running past components. The water paths are literally carved into the iron core.

I can borrow them if they are general tools. I know alot of backyard mechanics with very healthy tool sheds.

I don't have most of the tools(pullers, cam locker, timing light). Its also looks like a PITA to work in such a tight spot, even though I changed my clutch my self under my car haha. Damnit now I'm considering it haha. Galois, is that $500 including parts and labor?