SargeRX8

Some people want to run a pod, for what reason is to their own(performance, looks, sounds). Just make a box up your self man, its not too hard and not expensive at all. You can get a nice sheet of aluminum from bunnings, measure and cut it up and fit it all in. Spray the outside with some heat retardant paint, spray a top coat of black and away you go. You could go further and line the inside and seal it properly but its all up to you. I don't trust any of these aftermarket box covers. Every car is different(unless you are completely standard with a standard pod, standard intake pipe, standard afm etc). Once you change one aspect, almost everything else is thrown out of proportion. You can get a professional custom box made for about $300 - $400 from most skyline specialists/tuners/workshops. Ive seen some of the boxes that come out of Advan performance and wow they are schmick.

Why on earth would you open the fuel pump? The thing in the fuel tank looks identical to the unit on the return fuel line in the engine bay and if so, it is a dampner. My old skyline ran without one in the fuel tank and it ran just fine. Ive got one now because I'm using a GTR pump. Didn't make any difference. If its there, leave it there. The fuel pump will pump the fuel, your regulator will hold the pressure. Its a simple system. So long your lines aren't run dry every time you turn the car off, you'll be fine starting it up.

Ceramic coating is awesome and cost roughly the same as good quality heat wrap. The shop near me does ceramic coating for dump pipes for $100. Skylines do run quite cool compared to some other cars. My uncles R8(modded a little) runs quite warm you can feel it. My brothers car had a tissue touching the dump.... It caught fire.... Its a rotor. It was quite funny, we were like what the f**k is all this smoke. Then you see a tissue smouldering. To note, the car was not driven, just idling in the drive way for about 3 minutes. My input is it does make a difference. Ive sat passenger in my both my skylines a couple times. My old skyline was heat wrapped the whole way to the muffler(overkill?). This one is only wrapped on the cat back. I can tell you there is a definite difference in passenger footwell temps esp on longer drives.

I think he means the 5psi boost to 4500rpm then 7psi to red line. Anyhow it sounds to me like a misfire of some sort. Could even be lean popping. Does the car start and idle fine? If you hold RPM at say 5k in neutral does it pop? Does it hold fine? It could be many things. Gap your plugs to .8mm and wrap up your coil packs in tape(I don't know if this affects S1 coils but I don't see why it doesn't). Inspect your old plugs. See if it looks rich or lean.

I ran my stock turbo with a blocked BOV since I bought the car. Took it out, there is very minimal shaft play. Never had any issues. The sound will be coming out of your pod. Some people think flutter is the bov opening and closing rapidly... I don't think this happens. Although those are generally youtube comments. I'm gonna reinstall my turbosmart BOV after I get my plumb back adapter and tighten it up so I get flutter on low boost but don't risk damage on higher boost.

^ Shit post is shit Tightening the BOV or blocking it is just going to cause compressor surge. Stao told me to avoid any compressor surge but I really do like the sound of it.

That graph looks f**king sexy man, I love the straight line 280+rwkw all the way. I just wish I didn't listen to my tuner about 17psi being too high. Feels like I wasted so much money on a tune that I wont be staying on for very long I see almost 23 - 24psi going through your turbo. Are you controlling boost at all? I'm sure with a nicer tune and controlled boost you could make a little more power out of a little less boost too.

Boost controller.....

How do I achieve flutter with out surging?

Dude you are asking way too much for something you don't really know anything about as is probably very old technology. If this is just a narrowband AFR gauge, it wouldn't be worth more than about $30 - $40. If this is a wideband AFR gauge, a brand new unit with new sensor and faster control system could be bought for about $130...

Normally cost 350? Armour all? Lol. I think this is equivalent to those diy car wash places. A proper detail that cost 350 usually involves claying and more exterior work. None the less its a cheap price for a full interior exterior clean.

Isn't the rod threaded? You should be able to unwind it a turn then turn the actuator to compensate. I dont see any reason it would cause damage the actuator by turning the thing. Its just a rid with a hat in a sealed chamber and a spring.

If you connect your jumper leads to your battery and get a big arc spark, something is draining your battery while the car is off.every morning my car feels sloppy to start, I think its my alarm.

Your car will not run in 3 at 750rpm idle believe me. 4, yes. Check your plugs first,.its easier then doing all these other tests I've mentioned. you can risk it, start the car, stick some cardboard to keep the throttle open to say 1200rpm then unplug your coil wires one at a time. If one of them has no effect, you have located your problem. If they all cause the engine to struggle, switch it off, you have bigger problems

If it is water and it got into the cylinder and managed to get into the block and sump, you may have some issues and a rebuild may be in order but everything I said was just an idea... Its plausible, but it is just to give you an idea. And as above, blue smoke is burnt oil, white smoke could be oil just burning off a hot component. I don't think a failing component will cause white smoke but with this cold weather 2 hours is enough for condensation to build up and if the white smoke is condensation, your problem could be something as said above or even a spark plug missing causing the car to struggle... A compression test is a quick way to test the engine and if it looks leaky on one cylinder or two distant cylinders (one and three for example) do a leak down test to try locate the leak. If compression is low on neighboring cylinders, its safe to say the head gasket is gone. Was it fine until you parked? My car died the next day, was perfect the night before. My plugs were done.

Will these clear the brakes on an r33 gtst?

Ahh shit stick, my phone and its auto correct. I was asking what kind of rotors do you have there. I can't see what I'm typing until I submit the post.

Just wave your wand and yell open sesame.

I had plugs crap it in 200km. Rich fuel will foul the f**k out of then pretty quickly. Check my threads in the general section. I've got pictures of my healthy plugs are rich fouled plugs. Compare.

How long was the car off for when you got out then in? If it wasn't long then I doubt its condensation build up.. White smoke its generally water in the piston. Where it came from, there could be a few places. Did you check coolant level? The excess fuel smell could be the water preventing proper combustion this shit power, stalling and white smoke. Hopefully nothing major but when water leaks, its generally not a good sign. People use water injection to cool intake but it's often mixed with meth or something else flammable to keep the cylinder firing. Check for a build up of pink shit around the block and underneath for water. Please dont even start the car until you know what it is. You dont want to contaminate your oil with water. Check your dip stick and oil cap for signs of water.

You are running rich. since installing these mods more air is going into the engine and it responds by dumping fuel in. your plugs are fouling from the rich fuel mixture. You need an aftermarket ecu or find a boost level which works right which may be lower than stock but I don't know if this is possible as the actuator is 7psi so you can't really go lower. Get a power fc and tune.

Hey man, what from rotors so you have?

Are these flat or soft? If I buy these I don't want my ass hitting the floor. PM me, in Sydney too

As polite and kind as I could be, he wants a couple hundred and the whole day to adjust the fuel pressure and tidy the tune on dyno... Is this right?

Do you think the fix could be as simple as adjusting the fuel pressure? If the pressure is set to 43%, how much impact would a fully operational pump have on pressure? I can understand what you are saying but if I have to pay again for a tune and be out of the car for a week, its about harsh on me, isn't it? I'll be going there tomorrow showing them the plugs and seeing what can be done.