BundyBear

Chris Nice, I like the idea of a stock unit reworked, time factors a bit limiting personally Pete Sounds like you after a console adaptor, it allows communication between the PC the the cars ECU, Aircon, ABS, AutoBox's data bus , they are available on eBay, 30-40 bucks (I mad my own loosly based on PLMS's) Circuit, other good consult info aswell. not sure how available software is for the Stagea (I think there OBDII, I'm used to OBDI). Sounds like you can tap out you own anyway. try HERE for info, Peter is pretty clued into such things, if Chris doesn't know any Stag Software Cheers Bundy

Pete If ya don't mind the Jaycar screen you could put the guts of the screen guts in something like This, and house the PC aswell I got a cheap $80 screen of ebay bout 5 months ago droped in the touch screen USB inlay($30 ebay), run of a hackedup desktop PC 4 now (next step is the Double DIN case above, & proper carPC) The screen sits in the sun a fair bit and in a black car Pros: handles the heat Good clear picture CHEAP Get VGA, 2 Video in, and built in TV tuner Cons: Gota use a screwdriver Reflections can be an bit of an issue on real bright days Buttons/Case feel a little cheap but I'll ditch all that when swap the guts to the Double Din job TV tuner, like most, is fairly useless on the move Cheers Bundy

Dave Any sound deadnr helps a bit, even the tar suff painted on just watch where trim panels fit on, the clips win't penetr8 the extra depth for bigger bits like the roof I'd double up strips where room permits Yes them RCA's could cause interference, run em up the middle on there own The other main source of random noise is dodgy gound connections Speakers look like the Xover is just mounted on the back, Ref is just a flat/Neutral responce, assuming the 'screetching's' not distortion, knock it back to -1.5dB should take the edge off (-3.0dB is like putting in half the power) Cheerz Bundy

Yea Fusion gear is a bit average, but 200W rms is far from pathetic (although I doubt most of Fusions Power figures) I think sealing the box will be half ya battle, There are proper sound-deadening 'pads' that go behind the sub in the box now and give good results ( might end up costing more the a quality sub though) cheers Bundy

Kurt If posible, dismantle the box and 'liquid nail' n screw them, silicon and similar on the inside of the seams will soon fail, cause the pressure is +'ve and -'ve ( a 3-4 inch strip or FRP ( fibre glass) works well. leaks in joints, screew/wire holes will loose heaps of bass. spinning the box round will get some gains but only in the 2-3dB range from what I found ( I built 6 or 7 'test' boxes 4 my last car, just to try different angles and directions[The best setup varys from car 2 car]) ended up pointing back and slightly up, Lots of Dynamat in the tailgate helped, as did a 2/3 baffle above/behind the box, the other option I found thet can work well is putting the box at the back of the boot, facing forwards ( Some Subs Seem to like a bit of free-air infront of them) From memory it takes around 7-8 Meters for a Bass wave to 'mature', the interesting part is if you walk round the car with the stereo on, you should notice the most bass 2-4M infront of the car, thats the sweet spot, where the bass wav has fully matured, confirming the bass is indeed being reflected forwards Not a personal fan of ply for boxes but with a fusion sub he should be fairly right, just get the thickest stuff they got EDIT: I got loads of info from a book called 'the loudspeaker design cookbook', covers just about everything without needing the phd borrowed from the Public library, very handy

bout 3pm Spotted red 33 S1, gts??? plates on senic dr B'Woy - looks neet

Kurt Dissapointing Bass can be from several things, 1) you said the amps bridged OK, I'm assuming the subs are in parallel and not in series ,check the phase of both subs ( if one is reversed it will work against/cancel out the other sub. 2) the box, if the box is not stiff enough to withstand a couple of hundred psi of air pressure you'll loose bass, so NO air leeks (check round the subs, the wiring, and the edges of the box), also if the box is chipboard or even 12mm MDF it's flex with the bass, resulting in a disapointing output (my last box for 2 12" was 2 laminated layers of 18mm MDF with a fibreglass layer inside to reduce leaks and stiffen the flat bits) 3) getting bass from the boot, try opening up the path from the boot to the cab, ie remove backseats, parcel shelf etc. Something might but baffeling the subs 4) Power. start by checking the battery voltage with the system running 2/3's, watch the meter for a min or 2 then compair to the sub, if you see more then a Qtr volt drop, you might have power cabling issues. If your loosing Voltage( and therefore wattage) you'll need to find where. Possiblities are:- Main Power lead Ground from amp to chasis Ground from Batt to Chasis Ground from Alternator to Chasis/Batt Dodgy Battery Most of the grounds are easy to check, just stick the meter on each end of the cable on question ( use the 2V Setting), you should get like 0.2V or simmilar ( this is the voltage lost to the cable) The main cable is usually longer than the meters leads, but these can be extended easly with thinish wire, as the meter draws very minimal current, again the voltage drop should be very small 5) Subs may need to be 'Worn in', sounds a bit BS but they do openup after a dozzen hours of use 6) Tune. Even a good system not tuned well will sound off, unfortunatly it takes a lot of skill, experience and a good ear to do propperly. If everything else checks out a tune by a pro might just make the grade! 7) reserved for anything else I 4got Let us know how you go Cheers Bundy

hey Guys just went to report a dodgy post but the report script failed (couldn't determine type of content being reperted) post is at http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/350625-buy-triamterene/ Cheers

depending on your skill level that switch COULD be rewired to operate the actuator in the drivers door instead, therefore operating both doors personaly my alarm locks the doors after I start the car but you could push the little paddle near the door handle instead(probably easier than rootn round with wireing)

Rob, given Chris is in Qld he's probably a bit busy but The switch on the door only locks/unlocks the passanger door by standard Cheers Bundy

yea 6" should drop str8 in, 6.5"z might need some 'massaging'

You WHAT in your van?

t's all good he's used 2 go'n round in circles !!!!!

and then fall off like mine (work hardend the metal in the plate till it gives) ended up using the double-sided tape for bodykits aswell

Cam If yourz is like mine and has the read strut bar on the shelf you'll need a small stumpy phillips or an angled one, the shelf won't come over the brace mounts with the grills still in place other than that follow the above instructions (Don't worry about loosening the C-pillars though, 4th or 5th post) I had to remove my speakers cause the 2 outside child seat mounts don't clear the speakers

Smithers Bundy

Hey Boof my Series 2'z don't have an Alt S but this may help Fuse ID Cheers

dinna either put another switch onto the centre wire ( the one from the deck) or if its a Series 2 then the 2 outside wires put the ant up half or full. ID the 'half' wire and cut, then use that as the off or I beleive the antenna comeing out the rear guard is for AM anyway and the one on the top of the back window is FM, so I've unpluged the antenna motor(@ the back) that way the ant stays down and don't seem to affect reception

spotted a silver 33 with some of bdy kit go'n through Remo today also a white 33 @ the new moriset servo (was lookn 4 98octane, but could be blind)

Aaron assuming the inputs you mentioned are all unused, plug the front cam into the input 1, the rear cam into input 2, power for the front cam should be Acc/IGN and the rear cam to the reverse lights I'm also asuming the monitor switches acording to available video signals and in NOT switched electronicaly (ie by wires) cheers Bundy

also Check the engine to chasis earth :Arthur Sounds like you headunit uses the ground from the durry lighter