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Excuse my ignorance but what does solid type engine means?

I *think* the s2 rb25 is using hydraulic lifters?

Quick question. According to tomei , COMPATIBILITY NOTES: - RB20, RB25: Solid type engines ONLY (not to be used on lash type RB20 & RB25 engines) But seems like everyone is using it even on the s2 rb25det?

Yeah reading that other dudes blown neo head gasket thread now. Lol . Really hoping its just the head gasket. .. thing is temperature wasnt crazy hot. Guess the Trust radiator is better than the stock radiator. .. but who knows. ..

Erm just got back from the mechanic. .. let me guess. .. you're asking bubbles or soap bubbles. .. Can i guess if I'm seeing bubbles... means i have a blown head gasket? Mechanic showed me bubbles when car was running and radiator Cap removed... Man i knew that flush was a bad decision but then again i guess its just a matter of time. The flush just unmasked the issue ...

Pissing me off... after more than 55 liters of RO water!!!!! f**king flush just won't get diluted. the time, money and water i wasted... guess I'll try that thermostat one! !!! My heater is removed by the mechanic that did the transplant. I see 2 pipe holes on the fire wall on passenger side. Reason why i hesitated on using hose method was that i didn't want to use tap water. Imagine how difficult a small bottle of chemical to be removed let alone tap water? Btw my understanding is remove the lower rad hose and thermostat and stick a running hose through the thermo housing? Don't need to start the engine. Water will flow out lower radiator . Correct?

U seem to know something lol. Ìm still seeing f**king foam in the bleed valve. I just use plain water after using the flushing agent! It's like the 6th time after the flush and I'm still seeing foam! What am i doing wrong ? I did warm up to make sure the thermo is open. The foam just won't go!!! [emoji35]

Ok did same back to back testing ... So copper .6 mm my car could crank but it wouldn't start! So i gapped it to .7 mm and the car wants to start! Anyway went for a drive... hit boost and misfire! !! I'm fairly confident it isn't my coil pack so decided to investigate. .. So i went back to iridium! I don't know why but i was feeling adventurous and decided to lower the iridium to .7mm! (Was using .8mm in the past) and guess what? Car cranked but it didn't want to start! ! Went back and gap the iridium to .8mm ... car starts fine... went out for a drive. Pulls hard as usual... no misfires!!! Can someone/tuner explain why?

Also was the third flush since using the radiator flush. ..

Good question. Soap bubbles. My plan is to flush and replace water til the soap bubbles are gone. I figure out another 2 times. .. But so can i just remove the bleeder valve and let all the soap bubbles out? Will that be an issue as the injector is below?

Guys quick one. .. so i used a damn flush and now there's a lot of bubbles in my cooling system. .. can i just remove the bleeder valve at the top and let all the small bubbles flow out? Injector is just below it so a bit worried. .. yesterday i went for a quick drive and noticed the temp needle was a bit weird. .. do u think my motors head is warped due to bubbles ? :| only went for about 20 minutes drive though. ..

I take it this will not work on s2 rb25 ?

Hi is it normal that I'm misfiring when i use the cheaper copper? Was using iridium heat range 7 and gapped to .8mm Now using copper temporarily . Heat range 7 and same .8 gapped. Planning to gap it to .6mm but curious why I'm misfiring as i thought it's just 1 last longer than the other that's it. ..

Turbo engine with NA auto rear differential. Funny u mention boost as i hit full boost quite late. But then again i have a shitty vtc plug so i can't confirm till i go for another remap...

Depending on the ratio it will either make my acceleration quicker or slower. Is that true? I think i read somewhere the difference is only 4.1 and 4.3

Hi all. Apologies for the noob question but will i benefit from using the stock r33 gtst vlsd ? I am still using a ER33 chassis auto rear differential. Should i bother swapping the vlsd or just repair my stock one? I'm also not 100% sure if it will fit plug and play anyway. Btw i don't do any drifting at all. Just want to know if i should bother at all?

Which is reliable? Increasing boost or add timing/fuel or a little bit of both?

Would it be a waste to use oil cooler for a street car? I can imagine it being really useful in the track as you're doing wot most times... doh...

Yeah same here. Max i would go is 5 or 6 years. .. as if I'm not driving fast too...

Personally i wouldn't . I was just sharing info from Michelins website

Will a radiator flush remove those crap? I actually still have a bottle of liquimoly flush that I've bought like 5 years ago but was reluctant to use it because of stories like it eating seals away etc but what do i know?

Any DIY guide in sau? Really interested in doing this if that's the proper way. ..

10 years depending on how its kept

I thought I'll do fine by just draining from the radiator and adding water. Keep doing that every day till water looks clean then use coolant. .. too much work to remove rad and stat... But seriously will my idea work? Will most if not all water in the engine block be cycled out?

Updating just to say this was fixed and yes without the wires connected it did trigger the CEL