2rismo

Although it's not 100% accurate, there is enough data logged from drag racers all over the world in various types of race machinery to make a pretty bloody good estimate of power when you know the weight of the car and the terminal speed in mph. In general, it would take about 320hp (at the flywheel) to propel a car weighing as much as an ordinary R33 gtst to 106-107mph. That usually equates to about the 250-260hp at the wheels or about 190-200kW. A bad launch will always result in a slower elapsed time but will sometimes improve the terminal speed. Don't ask me why because I haven't been able to get a definitive answer yet.

No it doesn't.

Suggest you get in touch with Leigh from Extreme Turbo Manifolds if you need something sooner. The link is in my sig.

1.8 sucks compared to low 1.6's, man. That's half a second in the deep end. The track is glued but it really makes stuff all difference with poor tyres. It's all about practice. Everyone seems to think that just because their car makes XXXhp that they should be able to run XX seconds all day. It's just not so.

Not straight away but yes. Optimal boost control. Not exactly but I'm happy enough with that they've done to the head for it not to matter. Plus there are enough RB's out there running this type of manifold with results on the board that I would be stoked to replicate. A racetrack is no place for corners. I heard he went gokart racing instead?!? WTF? Thanks man - me too! mmmmm....yummo! I don't think it matters in terms of the application. The people watching at the dyno day weren't expecting that to happen. Least of all John P @ UAS.

Lol!! No, but jeez I wish I'd had the presence of mind to predict the engine letting go - I may just have given it a couple of hundred instead of the 100hp shot.

They're as realistic as the timeslip they're printed on, mate. They don't 'sound' like anything because they're a fact of life. I was running the same mph and exactly the same setup but 14.3's once upon a time - it's all about practice. I must have 5 or 600 timeslips from this car in boxes and folders lying around the place so don't write-off the benefit of getting to know your car and trying things. The suspension is the full Whiteline kit - hard as buggery and zero adjustment to help launching.

Nope. R33 GTST, full weight 3240lbs (1472kg), five-speed manual, std turbo and normal mods, just like most on the road. 190 - 195kW at the wheels, 1.81 60', 12.799 @ 108mph, regular shitty old Falken Ziex rubbish 190 - 195kW at the wheels, 1.73 60', 12.666 @ 107mph, Mickey Thompson ET Street Radials (drag radials)

Hi Mate. The stock turbo never went anywhere near 300kW at the wheels. When the story in HPI was written, the 300kW comment came from me being asked how much power I thought it made to run 120mph. With its weight at the time and the terminal speed, I came up with a figure of just on 400hp at the engine - I converted this to kW for the benefit of HPI and that was that. The most the car ever made on a chassis dyno was 265kW (see attached graph). Without the nitrous, the car made just over 190kW (255hp) at the wheels which is about right for a maxed out standard turbo on a half-decent pump fuel tune. (I know that others have made more than that by 20 or 30kW) Good luck with the rebuild, mate. It sounds like it should be a good thing. Make sure you take it to the track. Adrian

That's not exactly how you'd set it up in the real world but you're on the right track. In general most people set the Gate Pressure value a couple of pound below the Set Point (boost level) they're after. I'm speaking 'Turbosmart-speak' but you get the idea. Not opening the gate until you get to your desired final boost level can create spiking as the gate opens too late to control the rapidly rising boost level. In a perfect world the situation you describe would be the idea though. eBoost2 uses a single solenoid. I have superior boost control since using an eBoost2 than when I ran a Blitz Dual SBC although the difference is probably in the settings. Don't get caught up in the whole two solenoids deal.

Sorry but this just isn't the case. While I agree it is a good idea to run as close a spring as your desired boost level, your comment implies that the gate won't open at all until the spring pressure boost level is reached. This isn't how it works in reality.

I like the eBoost2 as do many top racers but every tuner will have their own ideas.

What boost controller are you using on that? Something like a Turbosmart eBoost2 will allow you to set a "gate pressure" which will stop the gate from creeping open before a specific manifold pressure. You can use this feature to bring boost on much earlier in the rev range and use play with this function and the sensitivity of the unit to control spiking caused by the less gradual rise in boost.

I won't mind if it goes dull - will match the rest of the engine bay.

It's very shiny now but I wonder what it will look like once it gets very hot a heap of times. We'll have to wait and see.

Obligatory Splitfire coilpacks from Sliding Performance - best place to buy these in my opinion. Next day delivery!

Picked up the new manifold and modified exhaust housing today. Both the manifold and exhaust housing have been coated with the latter being modified to accept the 50mm Turbosmart Pro Gate. They look sensational. Leigh from Extreme Turbo Manifolds does exceptional work! Couldn't be happier!!! Completed assembly: Collector: Exhaust housing modification: If it has this plate, it rocks! Beat that! Freshly coated:

Great example. Could also be a reason.

If it drops off very badly then could explain some/most of the lack of mph. Give it a rev, son!

The dyno sheet looks like the car has a reasonably broad power band for the turbo you've got on it but the mph doesn't show even 260kW. How's your clutch?

It only makes its power for a very very small amount of the time it's racing which apart from being fairly pointless is a good demonstration of what I was trying to say.

Check out the following expertly produced dyno graph showing two cars each making 270kW. Which car is quicker over the quarter mile? p.s. fear my mspaint skills

Done.

Collecting new exhaust manifold and newly modified rear turbo housing this week, then need to install motor and work out oil pulley size and order belt to suit. Then the tiniest bit of wiring, a tune and the skids. Before this time next month would be good as that's when the first Sydney meet I want to race at is on. But then this: Rd 3 – May 18, 2008 - Compak Attak, W/Syd Int. Dragway, NSW

Short motor is now assembled and appropriate oil galleries tapped and blocked. Should be together with head this week.