R31Nismoid

It's more than just a bit more efficient though, 40rwkw extra in some places has gotta be more than just a turbo change as the profiles from 52/56 are not "that" much different.

Heat shield it then mate Will make ALL the difference. With my manifold's shield off on my GTS-R manifold everything in my engine bay was crazy hot. Even the strut tower was ridiculously hot and mine was all low mounted. Puting the heat shield back on and everything like strut towers etc were back to much cooler temps. Heatshielding stops that radiant heat quite effectively. I'd go that route before more venting. Just bent up some ally to cover the turbine housing, and another to plate over the manifold if possible to deflect/stop from radiating out and head down.

Define "better". As you asked on a STOCK car - it's utterly pointless. You'll make @ best 220rwkw before the ECU has had enough, injectors & AFM are also @ limits. So a car making nothing before 4500rpm, potentially then having the ECU hit R&R with such agressive ramp up, and then only after that making just a tad more than a factory turbo.. SO... No, it will not be faster. It's simple logic mate, doesnt take rocket science. Have a look in the RB25 thread @ the list of mods people have when installing GT3076/GT3540's. The mods are long, and plentiful because that is whats required to make use of the turbo and actually realise the benefits of installing it. Putting that turbo on, IMO you will not see decent boost/power (280-300rwkw) until at least 4000rpm ish. Add to the fact you need to get: - injectors - AFM - ECU/tune - clutch/maybe diff - new dump, spacers, new piping & other mods to fit the turbo - all the labour/effort associated You've easily minced 7k without starting. And who knows what else will need attending to along the way. Even if you don't get all the above... You will still need a spacer, custom piping, dump etc to fit it to begin with which is wasted money. Yes its cheap, yes its bigger than the turbo you have now, sadly that means nothing.

I've never really trusted them - they just dont feel like they click in properly

Its a heavier duty actuator. Will run *I think* 1bar as opposed to the factory which will probably be less. Good upgrade if you intend to run a bit of boost

+1 GTR rods are like $200, plus the bolts - cheap cheap

He's grabbed it 2nd hand i suspect, lucky grab @ that price. Most people sell them around 1200-1300. Although I don't know what GCG "checked", given you need to pull it apart which means a new cartridge @ around $900-$1100 before you start as its basically rebuilding. So maybe they just looked at it with their eyes or something tricky...

It's made quite a massive difference, goes to show you can make the power with a tight exhaust, but changing it can still reap big benefits. Be interesting to see the boost graph when its done - it looks like it's coming on at LEAST 500rpm sooner. And for going to a larger turbo, gettting boost earlier - thats just fken win win win!

In bold for truth. Chris had some excellent results for the budget. The setup wasn't build to be the best of the best - it was built for the purpose. There is nothing to say it cannot be done better, or that it was the best setup. It was functional, and did what was required - but how does that help the OP? Not much. Different motor, different level of mods, different use of the car...

Nice results indeed. Very interesting that the larger turbo is more responsive - when compared to the old graphs you can see it's clearly more responsive, no question! It's making an extra 40rwkw @ 3200rpm!! Looks like the larger exhaust & new gate plumbing helped substancially. What were the old parts removed? (just for info's sake, like what CAT was there etc?) Any other boost controller alterations? (hard to tell if its more responsive without the graph yet hehe)

Well no. You said, and i quote You've said your setup was perfect without giving us one iota of information about it. One would assume you have the information to back this up. So my question stands. 1. What testing did you do to prove this? while im here i'll chuck in a 2nd. 2. What setup were you using exactly? Just because it made some numbers on a dyno doesnt tell anyone a thing.

Ye a 350g eye from Squires, some skewers for entree... In im f0 sure. Best part is i can walk home.

Sure am. Well without providing any information/results, then whats the point of making such a statement? I'd like to see pressure numbers before/after cooler please. Also temps pre and post cooler please after 15mins. I suspect you've not even tested it, happy to be proven wrong here. mmm guess i shouldnt assume people have stopped using 1970's technology My bad Indeed, could be any turbo, who knows. No numbers or anything provided when we all know R34 SMIC start getting maxed around 220-240rwkw from pressure drop and/or heat soak.

Oh come come now - you can't really call him a goose given some of your recent posts!

Certainly sounds like better heat shielding is needed - what is currently being used?

You ran a R34 SMIC and make 440rwkw on 25+psi with a T04Z without pressure drop/heat soak? I find that very hard to believe given there is plenty of tested proof to actually prove otherwise.

SOLD - Pending pickup this w/e.

All you need to know RE: For Sale, is in the For Sale area. There are information threads detailing requirements fully.

Honestly having seen cars running sticky rubber and a lot more power than you - they all did it stock sumps and 1litre overfilled. So I'd say no. But it's your call but without doing the other head/oil mods etc, that's where the real problems are anyway

It's not 20% - this argument has been had time and time again on these pages. It seems to be around a "fixed" ~60rwkw amount from all discussions. It's certainly not 20%. Think about it, 800hp motor is losing 160hp (120kw)? Nope. If you fix it @ 60kw... GTR's around 220-230kw factory (even though its quoted @ 206, we all know its not). And most stock GTR's make around 165-180rwkw on a dyno so it certainly fits quite nicely. Until it's actually tested, which to date no body has, then it's impossible to say overall anyway. That said - I will investigate with Nizpro & Racepace the feasibility of doing this testing in the next couple of months for everyone along with some other general forum speculation stuff i wanna cover

^ lol - same thing i was thinking.

Side point Garrett don't list a GT70 yet... Their site is usually updated quite well too I've found. http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre...gers.html#Large

Pull harder from 5000rpm maybe. By which stage you are pulling a gear by around 7000rpm and probably on the cusp of boost so it'd almost be slower Get a nice 3071/3076 like everyone else IMO. If XR6 turbos were good upgrades - everyone would be doing them

Ye the age old "where do you stop" is certainly real You'd be @ 4k before you began, then no point going those turbos... AFM changes, injectors and suddenly 10k+ has walked out the door! Ripping the motor to do what you wanna do - is very ideal and smart. Plenum & hoses are a pain in the ass and much easier outside the car as are turbos. Overall cost would IMO, be cheaper labour wise as it doesnt take that long to get the motors in/out with experienced people.

It would be interesting to see a proper split pulse single vs eqiv twins either way very impractical for a RB25 - stick with a single