R31Nismoid

I still don't know why people persist in using -10s/GT-RS...

If its a fresh build you shouldn't be idling it or taking it on a light/brief drive. You should be seating the rings or you'll stuff the build entirely. Tow it to the builder/dyno Monday and don't keep starting it now. All you should do on a fresh build is let it run for a couple mins just so you find any potential water/oil/air leaks etc.

My point was more than you can still wind timing and boost without detonation even with a restriction where pump would be showing up problems. Plus matt you have separate wastegate, also helps things out Anyway point overall is 4" is overkill, 3" would also be fine for that power - so either/or.

Does it look factory and was it bolt on? No. So that covers that off as most people in that region don't wanna spend, or look too obvious in the law side

E85 also masks some of that too. If you tried it on pump you'd be unlikely to get there

Yep. Clutch Brakes Suspension Diff Wider wheels and good tyres That is roughly 6k just there and without it you 260rwkw car will be slower than a car with those mods and only 200rwkw

$200 fora R33... Sounds very wrong. As above, if budget - 10psi is fine (12 can trip it out). Nothing will beat a proper tune and 'mailorder' tunes will not be much better than a stock ECU as you have to be so conservative.

There is every point. It's the whole point about car development over time and making improvements in various areas. If tyre changes simply meant no point, then why bother even comparing anything? Tyres are always going to evolve just like car set-ups. Go back 5-6 years then with AO50s and resurfacing - those times still wouldn't have been done as there is still improvements being made, such is the nature of developing a car.

On a 2000cc motor. Would be interesting to see what an increase of 20% capacity would do though to flow, with the smaller rear housing as well. It might just upset the balance enough. Also depends on use of the car, if it's going to see street duties - RB25 is far more cost efficient than a RB24. If it's just seeing high RPM/circuit then there is a fair argument to just stay RB20 till it dies and bolt on a reasonable turbo

Yeah that is always a good idea (I more meant building motors and what not, should've been clearer )

One thing to think about is the weight of the cranks etc. From memory the BC crank weighs a bit more than the HKS one as an example. So depends what you want characteristics wise and use of the car to boot.

As i keep saying - you've got a LOT more to put into the driveline/suspension yet. Nick has a well sorted set-up and that's what makes it fast in the roundy roundy stuff, not just the power (which is still good) of course). My R33 R was SOOooooo much more fun to drive, and faster, with the suspension/brakes/diffs/transfer case all done. So much so that if I was doing another build I'd do all that first before going for power. I drove a mates R33 R without decent suspension/diff/transfer case and it was nowhere near as fast as mine. Both cars had similar engine builds/brakes/power

The heat shields certainly help with keeping heat in places and out of others... In a tight S Chassis bay, it's even more important you would think. Be interesting to see another result of -7s on E85, it seems so far that those turbos just don't give the gains that larger ones (mid range and top end) do when going to E85. Be sure to post up in Forced Induction for people to have a look-see

Indeed. Along with weight of exhausts poorly hung and movement of exhausts as well when used on circuit, another big factor. Typical street driven cars don't seem to crack them. It's the guys doing circuit or 400rwkw+ and solid driving that seem to kill them. Your 350rwkw street car would probably be fine... But then... Stock manifolds are fine for that so why bother really? Go with stockers, reliable and cheap! (Breaking a Tomei set makes people cry as you gotta take the turbo side out to fix/replace).

Ok I have a LS1 (VY), and even at full weight a SS is going to leave... For Dead... A R33 N/A. The LS3 is going to make an even further mockery of a R33 N/A. I think they were toying with you and using 50% throttle. Just outta interest. Can you take a pic of the blue build plate and post that up please?

And that is the whole point of a forum - arm people with info they might not have realised so they don't waste money or put things on that might be sub-standard. ^ this. Tomei crack, 4-5 people have had this issue in the past 18 months... Everyone else seems to use use stock ones in most cases so go with that. Just ensure if you do port them, you don't remove too much material or the stock ones will also crack

Thread closed. Believe it or not, but since SAU started more than 7 years ago, this topic has been discussed before. Please use the search function in future. It may be found here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/index.php?app=core&module=search&search_in=forums While we understand that it can be frustrating to have your thread closed - Please consider that other members may feel it to be disrespectful and selfish of you to post a simple question, without using the search feature to review the wealth of information provided by said members over the years. If you still feel that this action is unjust, then please PM me and we can discuss it further.

Oh of course, no doubt. And if it is not good enough, send it back to them!

Non apology needed... Provided me with the biggest insight into your life yet

Fill intake with smoke, pressurise - see where it comes out

Nice try... But... Your entire comment is nonsense pal as this is what i said: Yep clearly said 1" runners on the exhaust manifold would hurt top end And fuel And the testing to show differences between runner types etc etc.

And a brand new crank is only $1100 or something from Nissan. A lot of people just buy a new one for this reason.

I've had both. For street car -9s win... You'll be just as fast as -5 car in the hills, if not faster as you don't fall on/off boost anywhere near as bad and its much easier to go faster

Thread closed. Believe it or not, but since SAU started more than 7 years ago, this topic has been discussed before. Please use the search function in future. It may be found here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/index.php?app=core&module=search&search_in=forums While we understand that it can be frustrating to have your thread closed - Please consider that other members may feel it to be disrespectful and selfish of you to post a simple question, without using the search feature to review the wealth of information provided by said members over the years. If you still feel that this action is unjust, then please PM me and we can discuss it further.