R31Nismoid

Thread closed. Believe it or not, but since SAU started more than 7 years ago, this topic has been discussed before. Please use the search function in future. It may be found here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/index.php?app=core&module=search&search_in=forums While we understand that it can be frustrating to have your thread closed - Please consider that other members may feel it to be disrespectful and selfish of you to post a simple question, without using the search feature to review the wealth of information provided by said members over the years. If you still feel that this action is unjust, then please PM me and we can discuss it further.

Thread closed. Believe it or not, but since SAU started more than 7 years ago, this topic has been discussed before. Please use the search function in future. It may be found here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/index.php?app=core&module=search&search_in=forums While we understand that it can be frustrating to have your thread closed - Please consider that other members may feel it to be disrespectful and selfish of you to post a simple question, without using the search feature to review the wealth of information provided by said members over the years. If you still feel that this action is unjust, then please PM me and we can discuss it further.

Might be, no one has done on car testing back to back. Only flow bench and people seem to make the power regardless. So won't hurt and if you do - never take too much, will make it weak and then cracking can occur

Without datalogit - then you can't change it. Handcontrollers work across both, mine did. It depends on model though.

No box, series 2

Been done before - a quick search and you'll find it. End of the day the cost is just prohibitive to do it, just put a big single on - or put a RB26 in.

The Tomei ones crack, don't go there. Stock cast ones are the way.

Oh whops... 400rwkw = 4" baby, and @ 4" you'll need to go custom and ensure it's tucked close as you can for height issues. Ti is just weight. If you are going -5s stock manifolds are fine, as are the turbos as they come.

Haven't seen one of these threads in a while... This should be entertaining for tomorrow to read

Could be the tune itself, cam timing yes for sure check and the exhaust for restrictions. Could be leaky cooler piping or even a case of a rag being left in the cooler piping and semi blocking it somewhere (seen that before). Lots of things to look at really.

Yeah 5" at the end, might have a 2.5 restrictor in the middle (lots of Jap exhausts do)

Cam gears won't fix the power issue... Your cam timing might be out though... Always fix the setup and get it running right before changing parts and fine tuning it is always a good way to work. Offset might be a problem, might not. Just drop it and do a dyno run or two. If suddenly more timing/boost goes into it then you have your culprit. It might even increase in power naturally so ensure the tuner is watching carefully.

I never got around to sorting the shoulder out... And now I'm just plain lazy at the moment and cant be fked. Well not lazy - I've had no income for 6 months and starting up a new business trading 7 days lunch/dinner I did get down to PTC last year to watch Nick, rumour is there is one opening not far from me (5mins as opposed to a 40min one way drive) - So hopefully that comes about as i need a trainer, I just can't motivate myself on my own. I'm still eating great and haven't been sick at all - just no heavy weights.

Ye I clicked the link, they are just 1980s N1 turbo cores mate, all the lag of -5s with the peak power of -7s... So the worst part of either turbo really (lag and no proper top end). You could have had that 20kw more, 500rpm earlier if you got new generation Garretts.. So ye... Anyway you've got what you've got, and you'll have to deal with it. Either way you still need to get the setup fixed as it should be 30rwkw more peak on around 20-22psi

As per the link - he put R33 N1 turbos onto it. So a MASSIVE step back in response performance (as evident by boost response), for not a lot more power in top end... Hence why many people view R33/R32 N1 turbos are a downgrade. Yes they should be making more power, talk to the tuner and fine out what the issue is. Could be 100s of things from cam timing to an exhaust restriction.

just smoke test it? You'll soon find the leak And GT-RS's just shuffle, same actuator pressure or not, most people never get rid of it.

356mm. 365mm fits also, 380mm from memory is only possible with some brands of wheel as it's about internal area.

If you can't launch well with 250rwkw on street tyres, you are doing it wrong Put it this way - I was doing 8200rpm launch limiter launches with 4x 275/17 Hossier Drag radials and 360rwkw in my GTR - I broke the front diff after about 30-40 of them in 2 days and put some wear wear on the clutch a $2000 Nismo Coppermix (which had already seen a good 200+ launches, and 3-4 years of work). With 250rwkw and RWD you should be fine as long as the clutch is decent. If you have a cheap clutch and do some big RPM launches, then expect it to end badly.

Just up the 1500rpm limit to 7000rpm then, same menu as a normal PFC. Just use the last setting from memory (the first 3 are A/C, normal limiter and something else) You'll soon tell if you got it right or not (maybe test with 4000rpm first.

Autosalon (Cabin) haven't, as they shut down. Shannons I think have been doing it since Bring on 2013 calendar!

Ok so then add another 10k as you need injectors, AFM, ECU, clutch, exhaust, oil cooler, radiators, ducting, brakes and then the labour to fit the turbos and fixing up the small bits along the way as well. To go from stock car to a stroked 400krw track machine, that is reliable and actually consistently fast - 35k is the start point, and no, I'm not joking.

I would place a guess something pretty close to this http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=415541

^ yep pretty much! AFMs too (if you dont have). Stroker - 10-14k. That is bottom end, also giving the head a full reco and cleaning up - plus all the labour and everything else.

In terms of forged bottom end? Or just the bolt on stuff?

It's always interesting as the turbine housing is usually always where the restriction is, so promoting flow outta the head larger/smaller runners - would be interesting to see how much response you would actually get. Well nothing really. Just bolt on turbos and wait until you do the motor. If it's 3-4 years away then why put wear and tear on motor parts now? Better to do it all at once, so it's fresh, and no weak/worn links in the build. So seriously, do all the drivetrain stuff I said earlier. Chop the lap times down hard as you can (there is 10k there as i said). Then once you are ready, do the build and then continue development... By which point you'll know a hell of a lot more than you do now, and also be able to drive it much better to actually notice how small changes affect the car. That knowledge doesn't come overnight