R31Nismoid

^ as above - the rotors are just too small for multi laps really. Lesser heat dissipation capacity. Ducting isn't going to make a world of difference. What will? Put a 356mm upgrade on, you'll have a lot more capacity and get a good 2-3 laps more out of it.

GT30/35 are virtually identical in size (just depends on the comp cover, there are different options etc etc. There is no real space saving

The motor isn't exactly the same, but it ain't far off in terms that it's a 4L and the GT35. The motor is nearly 40% larger than a RB25 where a GT35 comes on ~4400rpm Factory BA/BF XR6Ts end up making around 220-250rwkw with the GT35 and come on well under 4000rpm mate, it just doesn't feel like it because the motor is so large making it nice and linear. They also don't "whistle" simply because of the factory airboxes, low turbo RPM, standard comp cover - and it's not needing to run 20psi (nor would a GT30). You put a pod, metal intake - you'll get more sound from the turbo.

If you are just aiming for your club level track day Front Upgrade Stock rear Stock Master Cylinder It's what most people do, and it works fine. Rear upgrade isn't required unless you need more heat dissipation capacity from the larger rotor etc - only needed in a totally dedicated track car that's aiming for LOT of laps and 15mins+ running time (which is well over & above your club level sprint days).

Thread closed. Believe it or not, but since SAU started more than 7 years ago, this topic has been discussed before. Added to the fact, this is in the wrong section Please use the search function in future. It may be found here: http://www.skylinesa...earch_in=forums While we understand that it can be frustrating to have your thread closed - Please consider that other members may feel it to be disrespectful and selfish of you to post a simple question, without using the search feature to review the wealth of information provided by said members over the years. If you still feel that this action is unjust, then please PM me and we can discuss it further.

Just to note - we do have to be very careful about HOW we go about it, given legal issues as we are an Australian site, and hosted here (not hiding overseas like a lot of other forums). Hence we usually discourage users, given people can't help but sink the boot in at times. Admin here are always supportive of the decent blokes around the place, of which there are many

It's a WTAC discussion thread, not proving anything, just having an interesting discussion around Marlins points & interpretations of rules is all? 10. SUSPENSION Open: i. Suspension is free. So yes the suspension is free... but... 10. SUSPENSION c. Original mounting points may be reinforced and altered in design but not in location (except Pro). Would suggest that you can put any sort of suspension in, long as the Orig point is there. Now as page 4 said - There are ways to read into that, give how open to interpretation it is... Probably update 1.3 coming soon to say you actually need to use the point rather than just have it there

Not really sure the rules really allow for "the principle" or "merit" when eligibility is concerned haha Guess that's the nature of playing in the top class as essentially, a privateer. Certainly not easy that's for sure - although no doubt there are other guys in the same position in every class. Workshop sponsored vs Privateer/Hobbyist type of people. And yes, interestingly worded - and such is motorsport - he who interprets the rules best gets the advantage.

Closed. 1. ensure you use the search 2. take the time to absorb good advice, based on your responses. your other "choosing" engine thread isn't overtly off track, it's actually filled with some bloody good information.

Thread closed. Believe it or not, but since SAU started more than 7 years ago, this topic has been discussed before. Please use the search function in future. It may be found here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/index.php?app=core&module=search&search_in=forums While we understand that it can be frustrating to have your thread closed - Please consider that other members may feel it to be disrespectful and selfish of you to post a simple question, without using the search feature to review the wealth of information provided by said members over the years. If you still feel that this action is unjust, then please PM me and we can discuss it further.

Indeed it is a very interesting point given the budget and the fact I've been in the shed he works out of... It's hardly a pro workshop outfit, just a very clever guy making use of what is available on a limited budget of money and also time. (Plus Mark is an awesome bloke ) To the question though - Would it be because the rules say it's Pro by definition? 10. SUSPENSION c. Original mounting points may be reinforced and altered in design but not in location (except Pro). Given the points aren't anywhere near factory - to go back to Open Class would require a fair bit of rework.

Betadine Throat gargle also works quite well for a lot of throat infections. If you feel the on-set of something (even a tingle), start using it and a lot of the time you can stop it from taking hold

$100+ vs $10 Very easy to spot a fake

I disabled the mysterious Firefox add-on, and my problems disappeared

Yeah and read the subsqeuent one where he states it will adjust to whatever fuel is in the tank - that is simply untrue (and this is the part we are talking about). It is a SINGLE tune option. You set it for say 98 octane - it is set for good. Your current setup does not... 1. Adjust when there is detonation 2. Adjust for other fuel types in the tank 3. Adjust for changes to boost levels

This. If it's too hard in the rear compared to the front, expect it to turn around on itself. I had a mix/match shocks - Nismo S-tune in the rear and Bilstein in the front with unknown spring rates (previous owner), and the rear was sooo tail happy it was ridiculous. Swapped out for a matched set of shocks that were a bit softer, softer springs, more grip than I ever needed after that. OR as Mat said, something is broken or way out of alignment elsewhere

No factory ECU can tune/trim the fuel on the run, which is what he said he has been told... Or perhaps it was bad describing on his behalf.

Ah and have a look @ that - 18psi in the top end Although it was never running 23psi mate - It only gets to 20psi and immediately falls. It should hold 20psi a bit longer before it falls over IMO. Which would give you a meatier mid range.

You could check the exhaust for a restriction, make sure it doesn't have any in-built restrictors (lots of Jap exhausts have 2.5" restrictors before mufflers, internally). Otherwise try get the old graph and the new one overlaid. That'd give you a good idea as well. But definately get a boost read out, i would be surprised if there is 23psi above 7500rpm

E85 is not a promised top end power increase, there are factors involved. I bet you are not running 23psi @ 8000rpm, -7s (R34 N1s) and -9s (GT-SS) in just about every graph I have seen, fall over above 7000rpm to around 18psi by 8000rpm give/take as they are simply small turbos. Hence why they are so responsive. The only user that's claimed a good 40rwkw gain (with 5-6psi), hasn't come close to running a MPH that remotely backs that up, jury is still out on that one Splitting hairs - You'd probably expect to be around 300-320rwkw, but i say near enough - and check the midrange. That's where you should be looking on -7s/-9s

Have a read around the internet mate - You'll see the pro/cons and then make a call for yourself. Something else to think about - 500hp (over 300rwkw) on a RB25DET doesn't seen to last forever, users slowly but surely running around those figures are seeing their 15yo motors fail. So unless you plan for a rebuild, peg the power back a bit to 250-260rwkw/18psi and let it live on like many have for years with whatever turbo you select.

Packed & Posted to Tazzie? It ain't gonna be cheap, so that price isn't all that surprising.

Surgeons are adverse to remove unless you have a real issue with them. Look at things like: Rest/Workload Diet Stress etc etc. I had it a good 6-7 times over 12 months about 4-5 years ago, each time would stick around for 4-8 days pretty heavily, Doc was ready to take them out as it was virtually back to back at times which is a PIA. BUT I was having pretty epic weekends of 2-3 days of partying/boozing with maybe 4-5hrs sleep. So stopped staying out till all hours and now I drive a bit, or just have a few drinks rather than go totally wild. Never had it since and overall health has improved greatly, rarely get sick at all these days.

If you got paid out - Part it. If you didn't get paid out - Part it Either way, Part it. to fix it will cost you more in differential price.