Jump to content
SAU Community

R31Nismoid

Members
  • Posts

    42,485
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    13
  • Feedback

    100%

Everything posted by R31Nismoid

  1. The number of "pots" on a caliper doesn't mean much, its the surface area you worry about. but anyway ^ as stated... IMO you are crazy to consider anything like that given the huge GB SAU has landed for brakes http://www.skylinesa...rake-group-buy/ That Kido kit is $300 for shipping, and non-ADR lines, and unproven... Risky business when the D2 Racing is a well know/proven upgrade
  2. Suppose depends on the power and what not. With 340rwkw DBA5000s and Ferrodo DS3000 - brakes didn't last as long as I would like. Combine that with the DS3000 making mince meat out of a rotor given they are track only pad
  3. I don't have the rear. Just the fronts. If you want them let me know - I'm in Goulburn all this coming week if that helps (Not sure where you are from) I still have it, but no - I won't sell it for $300. $375 and it's yours.
  4. I'm leaving Wed guys - See you up there on Thurs - 4pm - Goulburn Soldiers Club.
  5. Will find out and let you know in a week or so (off to SAU Nats as of Tues). You do have a choice if not (RE: Red), options are in the first post I had purple, IMO it looked great on a MNP GTR
  6. Best info yet! I too am surprised not as many as on, but it does take time for people to read threads... Pricing is cheap as cheap gets really. $500 off a $2300 item (with ADR lines) - it really doesn't get any better. I can't comment on how noisy the Race Pad will be or how aggressive. Maybe someone else out there has used them before and can comment. I have used the street pad and it was certainly reasonable. Not as good as a Ferrodo DS2500, but given it came with the kit it certainly wasn't rubbish and took a fair amount of punishment which actually surprised me as I expected less
  7. Give it 18months and then see. I killed 2 silicone joiners on a low mount setup /w heat shielding over the course of 2 years simply due to radiant heat. Sean has certainly done it right the first time. I'd never silicone in that area again.
  8. I will do new members tomorrow or Tues before i head to NSW for SAU Nationals for a week - you'll get access then (for anyone that Dan has emailed me about)
  9. No-one is calling it a lemon. It's clearly been falsely advertised.
  10. I believe other colours can be done, but at additional cost. I'll see if it's possible via the GB. Might not be given it's meant to be a bulk order type of thing.
  11. Anthony - If you are in then let us know the colour/pad type and you'll be first on the list Awesome news - I didn't check my R33 brake difference when i swapped as i knew there wouldn't be problems. Thanks for that info - will help others no doubt. believe they are 4-pot
  12. one thread is enough, no need to spam
  13. Shipping/Importing costs mean that a car you might only pay $2000 for - ends up being over $4000 landed/complied. And before you ask - you can't bring in a complete car without the intention of compliance <--- that's not 100% true, but for the sake of what you are asking/discussion, that's how it is. Problem is then businesses need to make money - so no-one will then pay the money for a $2000 car that now costs $5500 now are they?
  14. It's not just a oil in the piping issue, as you said in your own post. So unless you... 1. Cleaned the piping - see how far you could go with timing then 2. Cleaned the pistons - see how far you could then go You can't really say it was just the oil in the intake alone causing the issue in your example. I don't think anyone in this thread has said that is not the case It's more around the point of "how much more timing" is the argument at hand. If the motor isn't breathing too heavily at all, there is little oil in the intake as a result - then the extra timing you could potentially then run is probably not as high as 10 degrees at all like your example - which is what i think most are sorta getting at...I'd be fairly certain you understand that
  15. Carsales ad doesn't even have the right VIN etc - so just ensuring people can't search via that and find out either. I truly feel sorry for someone that would put a deposit down at "50k" or there abouts, when the car is worth 35k tops.
  16. You should be changing the fluid first and going from there. A R34 GT-R isn't a light car, and with more power - the stock rotor SIZE is not really adequate for heat dissipation with prolonged use circuit or heavy street/tarmac (5min circuit or a 15min hill run). People IMO waste money spending on expensive stock rotor/pad sizes over doing a D2/KSport brake upgrade which generally costs the same (if you sell brembo's off, you actually profit). I don't know how you would drive in the hills but if it's anything like what I would do, you are certainly being quite harsh. I would see similar oil/water temps on a hills run as i would after doing 4-5 laps of a circuit based event. So i doubt the brakes would be too far off the mark either
  17. I would say that's a different scenario to what we are talking about here
  18. Ray - Maybe try a different browser - it has the info you want, i dont want to clutter the first post with "too" much info As for Pad - just specify here which you want, ill make sure you get it Updated first post to reflect it! Yeah good question - don't know the answer but they certainly sit out much further compared to factory so those with really dished wheels and respective offset will likely have issues. I'll try and find out exactly how much but it will be hard as each wheel is different. Most people that would be upgrading brakes wont be running heavy/dished rims with 5cm+ of dish for instance so its kinda your own enemy in that regard. TE37, SA90, LMGT-4, XD-9 as examples are all perfectly fine in 18" to give you an idea
  19. lol... http://www.carsales.com.au/dealer/details/nissan-skyline-2000-13645720?base=1216&vertical=Car&cr=16&page=2&eapi=2&__N=1246+1247+1252+1282+4294963846+4294963593+1216&num=15&silo=Stock&Range=Price:40000,50000~0.5&sort=default
  20. I'll add that into the first post - but i don't think he was Yep I will sort out rear pricing if i can before i leave for SAU Nats 2012 (I leave Wed next week). If i cant work out pricing I'll have to do it when i return as Import Monster is coming up as well so they won't be in their office
  21. Keep the slander out of the thread thanks
  22. The car isn't even in the country yet - so thats not possible
  23. Nitto rods just for a GT3076? Sorry to but that's just ridiculous wasting of money when many people are making 650hp on GTR rods day in, day out. Given you and your "engine builder" already reckon you'll make more than 400hp, that would mean you've already already chosen a turbo?
  24. You'd need to be breathing a fair bit to have a major impact in that regard when talking your average street level application. At street performance level best you'd be talking a degree/two of timing which you'll never notice really and any tune should be safe enough to accommodate that anyway Catch can (proper one with baffles) is always a good idea regardless
  25. Yes they do mate, if you click "EXPAND WINDOW" like i instructed - you get further information for each kit. Refer attached screen shot: To cover the other items Yes - either use AP items, or you can order from Import Monster or D2Racing.com.au No. The kit comes with pads - if you want to purchase something different then that is your choice. And no, you cannot remove the pads to reduce the price. No. The bulk price is based on the full kit as described. Perhaps best to send a PM to "Andy-J" about Stagea as if it's not listed - I cannot say it will bolt up.
×
×
  • Create New...