domino_z

hahaha spot on! seems someone has one on a shelf collecting dust good news for the buyer is with a crumbling US economy and surplus stock, you can score a bargain if you're running the stock muffler and downpipes, go for a non-resonated mid pipe - there are heaps available and all pretty much work and sound the same im running the milltek non-resonated mid pipe and it sounds very good. Only minimal drone at very low revs (below 1500) in the top few gears in auto mode reason i went milltek is their mid pipe is 2 pieces, so if the non-resonated was too loud, i could have swapped the rear section out for a milltek resonated section for little cost i still might do the same if i go down the catless downpipe route you can order the milltek locally as there are distributors in Aus otherwise there's the HKS resonated mid-pipe and also the willall which is also local

in genuine Z-Tune guise yes....

legend!! .....but ahhh 19s only bummer

what wheels were you guys running at WA autosalon? they dont look like advan's, too many spokes....also fronts look very wide, is that a square a setup?

Hi guys Anyone in Melb got a front lip sitting around they want to sell

if only you could flick a switch and the eprom is wiped clean for warranty purposes

wow here i was searching for info on the wilall exhaust and i came across this thread Mark, sad to see you're not here anymore, havent chatted to you in ages, though did see the same op on a couple forums back in the day interesting thread about GTR vs GT2, not that they're really comparable imo, the GT2 is too narrow focused even with the full touring pack, better comparo is with the turbo

any pics of this on the car? also looking for a sound clip but google's not playing ball

i thought that was simply a reflection off my highly polished black paint

Hi guys anyone here running that setup, preferably with stock downpipes? atm im running the Milltek straight Y-Pipe and although a little drowny at low revs driving in auto mode (should be fixed with some extra dynamat under the rear seats), i wouldnt mind a bit more volume + slight change with a higher pitched tone i also like the burble and popping sound when coming off the throttle with the straight y-pipe and oe muffler, reminds me of my old C63, and im hoping swapping out the muffler for the Legamax wont kill the burble? i know there's alot of choice out there now, and the flavour is ti, but what has got me keen on the Legamax is the illtech youtube video that car was running catless downpipes as well, so im hoping id get a similar sound (well maybe with slightly less rasp) and at a lower volume anyone care to help me out? in fact, anyone in melb running the Legamax?

far too heavy with GTR tax for a simple pod filter and metal pipe i doubt a pod filter will work better than the stock enclosed airbox on anything other than a dyno with a massive fan blowing cool air straight into it but if you want it for sound, id go for the TS kit http://gt-rr.com/product.html?m=top_secret...rbon&id=219 otherwise drop 70 bucks on the HKS drop-ins, thats good value and i can tell you for certain they work fine

i have yet to come across a fellow R35 owner on the road

you can adjust all those settings in the system diagnostic menu my 2010 has the auto headlights, so if they're set to auto and on when i turn the car off, they will stay on for around 45 secs if the lights are not in auto position, so either on or parkers, theyll turn off when i turn off the car, regardless if the door is open or closed

yep all good just test fitted, need to hard install the camera in the bumper now. Crawling around in the boot it would be ALOT easier with the bumper off, so ill have to do the install while the car's at my bodyshop so they can remove the bumper for me also, the guidance lines would need to be adjusted after fixing the camera location out back

4k for a reverse camera is far too heavy with GTR tax my camera kit for my ADM 2010 cost under 1k and it's genuine Nissan equipment, completely plug and play localised entirely in the boot you can buy it off japanparts, check my thread

car would have been off

^that one belong's to damien from FI's father - damien did an amazing detail on that, i saw the car in the flesh and the paint looked better than modern day factory ferrari's my dad's used to belong to the owner of Bburago model cars, so it's a euro spec and has less than 1450km on it with original tyres etc The US regs back in the 80s fk'd alot of cars, incl. the F40 with ugly bumper additions, and killed the engines with power robbing cats/exhaust bypass's - so the euro spec (of any classic with a bull or prancing horse) is what you want

^all good points another thing to note, what makes a factory paint special is what happens AFTER it rolls out of the paint booth Rolls Royce is one of the few manufacturers who painstakingly wet sand the clear coat to remove imperfections and orange peel oh no......'orange peel', ive probably just queued another 4 pages in this thread

here's a maroon 308

ferrari have been offering metallic colours for decades now you could buy a 348 in that silver/grey you can even go back as far as the 412 or even daytona and buy them in silver

your 360 doesnt have ceramic clear, that's why im not sure what Gohan inferred, but i havent heard of ferrari using ceramic clears - if they did now, it would only be the very latest stuff, like califnornia onwards

soft clear is a bit of a double edged sword yes it is easier to cut through the clear because its soft but then its also even easier to cause micro marring or hazing (buffer trails) because of improper skills in how to finish/break down the polish - even moving the machine too fast can cause these on soft clears its quite tricky and you need a fair bit more skill than the average hobbiest detailer to finish soft clear perfectly. Your process will depend on the polish used, the pads, ambient heat etc re chips/swirls on the ferrari vs merc, that could be simply down to the panel design, not to mention countless other variables such as thickness of clear coat, different colours showing swirls more than other, diff wash techniques, etc. My GTR gets chips along the side panels whereas my front is totally chip free after 4000kms of dd. It has nothing to do with the varying thickness of clear across those panels, but rather the semi slicks kicking stones up while driving

looks like gohan beat me to it kujo have you seen this F40 detail? http://www.detailedimage.com/Ask-a-Pro/fer...and-craig-reed/

no offense dude but you're all over the place, and im hoping it's info that hasnt been fed to you by a detailer looking to charge you more what you're describing is the difference between metallic and non-metallic paint my GTR is non-metallic black, there are no silver specs in the paint, and yes non-metallic black is THE hardest color to keep swirl free as it shows even the slightest swirl as there are no 'silver specs' to visually hide/minimise any swirls most car manufacturers offer both metallic and non-metallic paint colours - eg; Lambo offer both a metallic yellow and non-metallic yellow (ours is non-metallic yellow). Every car these days is then clear coated over this base colour. What you are doing when polishing is removing the very top layer of clear coat that is scratched. The base color whether it be metallic or non-metallic remains the same. if you are working on an older ferrari like my dad's F40, that has single stage paint - there is no clear coat, so when you polish with an abbrassive you are removing the top layer of PAINT and thus this is a much more difficult paint to machine polish to prevent going right through the paint on panel edges. And to correct that paint ill happily pay for it. In fact there is a detailer in the US im trying to get to come over to detail it, and all the other cars as for the softness of clear coat, like i said, you can get soft hard to work clear coat on a honda jazz, and typically its japanese cars that have the soft clear coat. When i had the heat lamps on my GTR correcting the clear coat, the clear was getting so soft it was micro swirling rubbing the polish residue off with a microfibre towel most euro cars such as merc, bmw, audi, porsche now use ceramic clear coats which are rock hard in comparison, and alot more forgiving to the amateur detailer, as you can pretty much go straight to a heavy abbrassive without the risk of causing hazing with improper techniques if a detailer is charging more to correct non-metallic colours than metallic than something's up. He/she should have the skills/lighting etc to finish down both paint types equally well re the types of cars argument, id say both FI and Eurogloss get the same number of exotics through the door. The benefit with Mario is that he is mobile, and that may be enough for some people to decide

hey eugene good to see you here, you still have the Z? i stopped selling the MF's etc at the start of the year because i just didnt have the time anymore to run that hobby if you need more towels, shoot me a pm and ill let you know who's got the best local deals atm