Sub Boy32

Haha! I think we'll manage!

Bahaha.....oh yeah, forgot about that, my 9000rpm rev limit is soo lame

Want response.....More cubes!

Geoff has a 8374 0.92iwg in his Evo road car.......yeah it gets hot in Aussie, but it's just as hot if not hotter where he lives in Phoenix AZ! I'm sure he will send you some specs if you ask.

I replaced my standard rear GTR diff with a Nismo 2way a while back, the best way to describe it is it makes the car a lot more predictable, it used to snap sideways when braking traction, now it just drifts perfectly. It was even more noticeable in 2wd when I broke the front diff recently. I'm in the process of fitting a Quaife ATB diff after all of the positive reviews (like Piggaz) to the front. Ford factory fit these on the 300hp Focus RS front wheel drive, and it got rave reviews for being able to put the power down without sledging.

Will be interested to hear what you think of the PPG gear set, I know you are not keen of a seq gearbox, but that is next on my list, there is a German guy who makes TTI 6spd boxes in Nelson (about 4hrs from me) so we are looking to adapt a transfer case to one.

So what's the verdict on the gearbox Paul? And I see you were running treacle thick oil with the Quaife front diff? How did that go, they only recommend 75W90 for it?

I spoke to the Motec guys at WTAC in Sydney not long ago, they said it was. I'm running a Racepak IQ3 with my ViPec.......but with the amount of shagging around I had to do to make it work, I would recommend just getting a Race Tech Dash 2 as it is just plug and play.

Pretty sure I just said that one post above :~

You probably find that the supplier is thinning down his stock now that Link/ViPec are offering the Race Technology Dash 2 as a direct plug in for their ECU's, I get the feeling they will stop making the Display Link at some stage.

Yeah, I have an R33 speedo drive. .....still can't work out how people get their Odo to work on the display version IQ3, the Racepak software is missing some of the sections. Does the Haltech spec'ed one have it's own software?

If you are taking the factory R32 cluster out like I did, then you will need to convert the mechanical drive to electronic or the ECU won't see a signal. The R32 cluster normally sends the signal.

I'm running an R33 speedo sensor in the gearbox, so I've done away with the mechanical cable. I still think the dash is worth it, I've spent a lot on my engine, and being able to have read outs on all the important sensors is important, and programable warning lights if pressures etc get too low/hi

And your odometer function works?

That's odd, when I spoke to Racepak they told me that I wouldn't be able to get the Odo to work on the Display IQ3? I'm using the speed output from the Link G4 through CAN Bus, but in the Odo menu on the Racepak Display software it's missing some of the links that the Logger software has. What does the Haltech use for the speed input? Is it GPS?

What was the problems you had with v22? When you talk about the channel upgrade from 15 to 20, what did that add? Can you get the Odo to work?

The software maybe the same, but the updates for the Logger and the Display are different, the Display hasn't had a software upgrade in years, where as the Logger has.Yeah, having the two buttons is great so you can program screens for different duties, i.e Street on one, track day on another etc. I used the two radio buttons on the top left of the dash for them and relabelled them.

Cheers! Available from Racepak direct

Yes and noYes, the software in junk, even worse if it is the Display Version instead of the Logger Version Yes they are insanely difficult to deal with. No, you can reprogram a Haltech derived dash to run with a Link G4. Yes you can run a Racepak IQ3 in CAN Bus cable, but you have to ask specially for them to make one for you (myself and and another Kiwi have one) and then have both the laptop and the dash plugged in at the same time. Yes they have a phone number, prob the only way to get a decent answer out of them But yes, if you are running anything other than a Haltech, I would pick something else like a Motec or an Aim Link have just teamed up with a dash company (I forget who) but if it had been available when I bought I the IQ3 I would have......and I prob would have a lot more hair than I do now......but if you are only ever going to run a Haltech, I imagine it should be fine.

Cheers, mostly me. you buy the plate like this, And then trim it to suit, cover in 3M Dycon, and mount some lights with computer cut labels.....sorted!

I have one in my R32 My biggest reason for putting one in was I didn't like loads of gauges scattered around the dash, I have oil temp and pressure, water temp, fuel pressure, inj duty, fuel level, intake temp, boost pressure etc available at the push of a button (4 screen sets can be programmed) I would suggest to those looking at one to buy a Logger version if you are not running a Haltech as Racepak don't offer a lot of support on the Display version, and the Display version doesn't have a working odometer function. (I'm having to run a R33 speedo hidden to make it road legal with the Odo)

No, they must be on holiday.

Cheers Guys, I have bought a good second hand R33 box complete with transfer case (I have already got and R33 one in the car) for only $500nzd so it was a bargain (usually about three times that much in NZ) I'll fit the transfer case to my existing gearbox as I had a few of the syncros replaced not long ago, and I know it's all good. But I think I might rebuilt the broken one with these upgraded plates: http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/161207-n01-new-tranfer-box-race-clutch-pack.html And also run a oil cooler setup like the Aussie spec/N1 cars, I bought a full set of diff and transfer case coolers from a UK Spec R34 that I should be able to mod to fit.

Cheers, I've flicked them an email. I thought they only did R35 gearbox bits, so we'll see what they have

Personally I think if you are trying to improve an oil pump past a Nitto or a Tomei, then you should be running either a external pump with a wet or dry sump. A well built engine with correct clearances and play should have no problem with either of these two commercially available pumps, any thing more is serious drag or time attack engines (dry sump territory)