Duncan

mmmmm strippers..... This style are good because as well as doing the stripping automatically, there is a plastic guide you can set to consistently strip the same amount of insulation to remove

I'm very happy with my similar setup on the race car, I've run up to 1hr enduro races on them and targas etc with no issues. These are a bargain at the posted price even if they need a reco

lol about time the whales struck back! Anyone got a link to results?

In a CAMS sense, improved production allows an engine swap for same manufacturer/same number of cylinders. but yes you'd need sports sedans for a nissan 4 cylinder in an mx5.

it's a bit of a sidetrack, but this webpage was absolutely awesome and I used a lot of the advice from it for my wiring job https://www.rbracing-rsr.com/wiring_ecu.html Obviously I'm no sparkie but I've done a fair bit of wiring over the years including a bunch of annoying failures when I hadn't done stuff properly and everything those guys said made sense. Doing so much wiring from scratch, particularly when you have "plug and pin" sets mean you can run single new wires from point to point without any dodgy joins. I used: <5a/signal wires: #22 raychem wire and deutsch DTM connectors 5-10a power or earth (almost every power circuit): #20 wire and deutsch DT connectors >10a: #16 wire and deutsch DTP connectors Some bigger wires like main battery and earth I had to run 00 or similar and have a big battery lug crimper for it. For joining any wires (eg factory loom power sources to the smartwire) I used these awesome heatshrink splices. You crimp them down (the usual red/blue/yellow sizes) and then melt the heatshrink to allow glue to support the joint instead of the crimp, they are great. http://www.solidkit.com.au/product/krimpaseal-heat-shrink-crimp-waterproof-butt-splice-joiners-bulk/. I also used a few super helpful reducers in the same stuff eg red to blue or blue to yellow, really helpful for joining 2 wires into 1 where needed. They are semi-transparent so you can see if the wire is seated properly too, Crimping the deutsch terminals is super easy because the tool for each size holds the pin and crimps it in 4 places which is almost impossible to get wrong, I think I literally only stuffed 1 in the entire job. For things like earths I used regular crimp terminals in red/blue/yellow with a ratchet crimper which is much easier than the cheapy plier style ones. I also have a generic crimper for non-insulated terminals which was OK but got very painful by the time I finished all of the smartwire and haltech pins. And the smallest size on this was still to large for the AMP/haltech pins so I needed to tighten each further with pliers which sucked. If I had to do more of them I would have bought the proper tool for these too. All of the gear including the proper crimpers cost a bit but I expect it to be super reliable now. I also used a lot of dual wall / glue lined heatshrink where cables come together and between cables and connectors. Also spiral tubing and electrical tape on longer runs The key idea is to avoid soldering (because it makes wires brittle due to heat and solder's lack of flexibility) and to support the wire other than by the actual join/crimp on the wires (ie by it's insulation/heatshrink/tape/spiral cover etc) to limit the strain on the wires and minimise the chance of the actual wire being damaged. And the other key thing is to test every single connection by giving it a reasonable tug after crimping; if it falls apart now it won't last long on the track.

actually here's a cropped original res pic of the wires, you still can't really read it (phone pic...) but you get the idea. I'm not near the car at the moment to get a better pic but they are very readable

no it's not sold but it is kind of like the red-headed step child, I just don't have time or patience to get to it. It's with the same mechanic it has been (for years) but it will be sold as soon as its running....either the MCM guys want it back or someone else who appreciates some of nissan's most unique engineering.... ryan all the wires are white because I've used Raychem wire everywhere, it's light, strong and has nice thin insulation. But the practical issue is that if you want different colours you'd have to know how much of each colour you need, so instead most race cars just run white and put labels on each wire, I picked up this awesome K-SUN BEE3+ label printer which prints straight onto heatshrink http://www.meter.com.au/labellingproducts/ksunlabelprinters/bee3plusheatshrinktubeindustriallabelprinter/. It's not super clear but in the smartwire pic above you can see every wire has a yellow heatshrink label on it

sounds to me like you have the wrong kit. 32 would definitely be 12mm and 34 is 14mm....I don't know if all 33s are 12mm or maybe they changed along the way somewhere. Either way I'd be trying for a sway to a 32 kit first, but if not I'd happily drill the hub out to 14mm (after all you can always go back to stock because 12mm bolts fit in 14mm holes... Which end of the brake fitting has the wrong end, chassis or caliper end? All the ones I've had a banjo at the caliper end and flare at the car end. When you say the runout is over spec, is that the disc when it is bolted to the hub? it could be the hub or the mating surface that is the issue as much as the disc. I just put a set of these (ATTKD brand) on the cima last weekend and they went on perfectly, 4th set I've bought of these over 10 years now.

Yeah I enjoyed it too, good on Nulon for sticking with the series. it was damn hot though. Are there results posted up anywhere? I want to know if the wiggles are faster than a shopping trolley hatchback And great work Desmond in finishing in the top few cars, the competition has definitely heated up in the last few years

Finished the last of the wiring today with the ECU and I/O expander inputs all sorted. Annoyingly the labeller ran out so I'll have to pull them apart later to label them up properly. So once that was done and the looms tidied (a little), I've put everything back in the car and got everything connected (apart from number plate and reverse lights because the bar is off, and 3 senders because of little things I need to clean up. Just in time really, because today was the last day of the working on the race car marathon, back to work (and normal race car work pace) on Monday. I figured it needs half a day to finalise some stuff for the test, then check all the circuits work as expected. Hopefully next weekend while I can remember everything. Then pull all the looms out again with some notes on where I need to adjust the wrapping for proper fitment...what works on the floor seems to be just far enough off to be impossible once it's back in the car. While that's all out again I'll get the interior painted and exterior straightened and clean up in a few place. Then chuck everything back in and maybe go to an event one day!

lol what March Super Turbo? That is one project too many! You should see what is about to leave the docks

lol good point.

Yeah like Callan said the car must have been running and clutch in for this case. I was thinking steep hill, in gear, clutch out, motor not running

I'm sure 50m won't cause a problem, but potential issue is that the oil pump is running backwards so no oil pressure in the motor for that time.

You can define up to 12 pins with your own switches, either ground = 0 (which I've done for convenience) or 12v = on. You then define the logic for each output to turn on. This is how the fuel pump is defined: Due to wiring on the switch panel, when the ignition is on you can either choose ECU controlled fuel pump (primes when ignition is first turned on, and stops if the engine stops as required by CAMS safety regs) or fuel pump always on for things like draining the tank. When either set of conditions are met the outputs turn on, up to 40A output (for both lift and main pumps). If the 40A is exceeded the dash will show the issue and it will reset a defined number of times until it shuts down, all configurable. This is a pic of all the outputs from my initial testing, at that stage there were no switches attached so only the always on outputs are on.

Well I sorted out the loom problems this morning and then finally got the smartwire finished this afternoon Basically the smartwire replaces all the relays and fuses in the car with a programmable system. There are only 3 relays (4wd, ignition, high beam flash) and 7 fuses (main fusable links under the bonnet) left in the car. Instead the smartwire has both CAN input from the ECU, and additional switched where required (thus the custom switch panel). You then set each of about 40 outputs to turn on or off depending on any of the ECU or switch inputs. This also covers all of the race/rally additional circuits like cool suit, rally safe, intercom, radio, camera etc etc as well all in one place. Hopefully I'll get the Haltech ECU and I/O expander wired up tomorrow and also the main battery power which is the main thing left before testing it all....

Oh and no real pics of progress today, it ended up a bit frustrating anyway. I've wired in the car side of the dash, and every wire I need is now in place (I hope.....) Only the smartwire, ECU and I/O expander plugs were remaining (so I thought), until I decided to take the dash loom out to make the final plugs easier (since there are about a billion pins to do). Which is when I realised in about 5 different places I'd hard wired too much together (eg front, rear and dash looms) without plugs to remove them. So tomorrow is starting with adding 3 more plugs to allow everything to come apart, then hopefully getting the last pins done.

I run standard sway bars (rules...), 350 rear and 450 front springs with Gary modified bilsteins. I've always been happy how it handles and the times have been good considering the lack of power so I'm not looking to change anything there at the moment. And apart from adjustable bushes the only trick is the front LCA inner mount is about 20mm outward which is allowed under production car rules to get desired camber

Anyway, only one job today, but it was a good one. All the wiring for the switch panel is done and tested Everything is working OK, I did initially have 2 switch wires the wrong way around for the fuel pump. Wiring at the rear was a pain but should be reliable and trouble free now

Armageddon again? I hope it's zombies this time, I'm ready....

lol not until I work out which year the ETA is....

Be careful, that won't remove all drive from the front wheels in a C34 (or and R33 or R34 for that matter), if you are going to do this you still need 4 wheels off the ground. I think you might be better to take it to a competant mechanic, they do this sort of stuff all the time without a ferris bueller's day off type ending

umm not really sure who else, but I'll be flying the (very quiet) flag for SAU

hey good searching at least sorry I don't have stock rears to check, did you try an m8 bolt if you think m10 is too large? It's a common thread size from memory rather than something unusual

also sorted out the final fuel system stuff with new braided lines at the front to the fuel rail, and from the regulator to a Y piece then back to the rear, with the other arm going to the fuel sampler required for targa and production car racing So a good day overall, back to wiring tomorrow.....