Duncan

jesus that car is slow....how'd you stay awake on conrod? you'll have more fun with something with a few more ponies

umm yeah I suspect it might be showing up a lack of power there....must be frustrating to watch 86s drive past. it is an awesome track though, great to see such an accessible way to get a run there

well it looks like snowy should be happy with the sprint, he got 2.25.4 well done! I saw a few other familiar names in there but most of them aren't on SAU I think. Fastest lap was still well over 2min (2,.04.2 in the m6) so that target is still standing for now....

easiest way to be sure is remove one bolt from your caliper and measure whether it is 12mm (r33) or 14mm (r34) diameter. Keeping in mind you could choose to run 33 size / 12mm in either hub with spacers (or whatever else) around the bolt to locate it. my guess is S1.5 will be 14mm, my late model, s1 was....

moved....and thanks for the detailed post!

Did you try pushing it

+1. There's nothing wrong with the stock setup, billions of people run them making gigawatts of power. the problem is elsewhere in your driveline, probably just a bent input shaft during installation

something like this works if you want premade, but it is very expensive for a switch and a variable resistor http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/GTR-Torque-Split-Controller-TSC-GTS4-GTS-4-RB26-Stagea-SKYLINE-R32-R33-R34-/112202649387?hash=item1a1fcc8f2b:g:DfMAAOSwj0NUkhmB

All you need for a burnout is a switch on the ATTESSA fuse. Turn it off an you will have 2wd. Stop moving and turn it back on (don't forget) and you have 4wd back. You shouldn't use it for dynoing the car in 2wd but it would be sufficient for a burnout for a second or 3. 33/34 attessa systems will burn out clutch packs in 2wd if you leave it too long

hmmm the only think I can think of that is less like a open wheeler or lightweight n/a than and evo would be a gtr. very different direction....

that really is taking individually constructed vehicles too far

It's so hard for us oldies to keep up with acronyms, in my day that meant I'd Tap That, but turn out is also means Intense Testicular Tension. http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=itt Thanks Internet

people with open wheelers don't have mates

respraying panels in the same colour or the whole car is straightforward and will cost a couple of thousand, however changing the entire (external) colour is a huge job because of all of the small fiddly areas like filler carp, door jambs, boot etc etc. Also your engine bay colour and paint code on the VIN plate will not match the exterior which most people will take as a sign of major repair or even rebirthing re engine rebuild, I wouldn't do it unless you are trying to fix a problem. Cost varies hugely by what needs to be done, and since the rebuild only replaces internals you won't see any difference in the engine bay unless you do further work at the same time (eg power coating rocker covers, replacing rubber hoses, replacing or polishing hard lines So maybe just take it out and enjoy it instead?? A professional polish and detail ($500+) will work wonders

you are wrong more often than Pete these days old man http://www.azlyrics.com/lyrics/killers/human.html But I guess the point is, like mathew said, talent is not an automatic inclusion with a more expensive car. If an Excel was 0.1sec off a Radical I hope the radical was stuck in 2nd

That's like asking are we human, or are we dancer. Why can't we just be both?

Evil Chris went from a 33 to a mx5 a few years back, would be interesting to hear his view.

oh and good luck at Bathurst Pete, I'd love to run the GTR up there sometime, the emo 9 really ran out of legs on conrod compared to other cars

intriguing.....

well it can be done from below, easiest on a hoist and with the starter motor out. japanese sized hands would help. prepare for skinned knuckles....

well sorry to increase the bad news, but you also need to replace the gearbox input shaft at a minimum if that has been chewed out because it will destroy a new spiggot bush straight away like that. It is reasonably easy to bend the input shaft installing the engine if you are not careful, perhaps that is what happened. But you should also test the crank with a dial indicator on the rear where the flywheel bolts on to make sure that is not the issue.

fark that's $125 more than I've ever won.....your shout next time!

all the rb (and a number of other nissans including r31 skyline and older navaras) use the same spiggot bush and they are readily available from nissan for a couple of $$. But it is highly unlikely your spiggot is the problem; more likely it will be the input shaft (or perhaps crank?) is not straight. I'm not at all familiar with the pull type clutches, but the input shaft pic you have posted looks very different to all the push type clutch shafts I've seen; they have a straight nose all the way to the end while yours has an obvious step. Is it damaged?

wow....that is a long suspension I can also confirm extensive testing of multi-year PFC disconnection without issue, sadly

Wow a car that still has HICAS! Anyway, that is the AAC and the idle screw is on that. It may be the screw in your red circle (hard to tell in that pic). Depending on how standard your car is, the ECU also has an idle adjust screw and the throttles themselves could be adjusted. If you have developed a high idle, its more likely you have an air leak somewhere in the intake. AAC should never really need adjustment unless you've just given it a full clean out internally