Duncan

Well I hope one of the forum members more familiar with M35s can help with where to source a second hand starter and get it shipped out there. Alternatively, while your local guy may not have parts on the shelf it will be no harder to rebuild than any other starter once the right parts are there. There is absolutely no problem with using a turbo on dirt roads etc, just think of all those turbo diesel utes and trucks running around. You would need to replace or clean your air filter more often but hopefully whoever services the car will have that under control. There are 2 series of Stageas, C34 (earlier) and M35 (later), while they are similar from a marketing point of view (mid/large wagons) the platforms they are built on is very different, so any threads you see about C34 is unlikely to be directly relevant to your M35. While it's a bit touchy, I think everyone here could agree that C34s are easier to modify, and M35s are nicer and more comfortable. The main thing you may notice about any stagea is the fuel economy is not awesome, parts can sometimes be tricky (as you've found) but nothing impossible. I think M35 stageas have issues with air flow meters (maybe carry a spare) and turbos (replace yours if it hasn't been done yet) but are otherwise reliable, but again the forum members more familiar with M35s could confirm

that seems like a reasonable price to reco or replace a starter motor. some failures are more common when cold, others when hot. genuinely random failures are less likely and will probably become more common until that really annoying time when you end up stuck I just did the one on my C34 because it was failing when hot (but it is manual so I could clutch start....) the job is easy enough for any mechanic, probably 30min in and out. I'd take it to someone more familiar with imports and see if they know where to find a new one or repair it cheaper; whereabouts in NSW are you?

got a pic of the relay mount? generally nissan use one of a couple of standard relays so you can swap in a spare from elsewhere

lol by my count I am 3-0 up in this thread so far (seized pistons, coolant leak and brakes not bled properly).....but no magical crystal ball, I've just had all those problems over the years. And I can add that the noise you are describing (whirring noise when foot on the clutch, regardless of gear/neutral, no noise in neutral with foot off the clutch) is your thrust bearing being a little worn. Just live with it until you next replace your clutch. And your engine will be fine, you would have noticed problems straight away like smoke or water vapour at the exhaust. You could check the torque of your head bolts but I'll bet they are fine too. I've had a engine at 132o without killing it, the heat would either warp or crack the head gasket which would lead to a major oil and/or water leak. A compression test would confirm no lasting damage if you are worried

Hi mate, what is the symptom of the problem, who diagnosed it, and did they say exactly "starter relay"? It's possible there may be a starter relay causing a problem, but if someone has diagnosed that they would also spend 4 seconds replacing it for 4 cents. More likely it needs a new/reconditioned starter motor because the solenoid on the starter motor has failed. Any auto elec or mechanic should be able to take it out and have it reconditioned in a day.

yeah but this is for a 2wd not 4wd as the 4wd bearing is held by the nut at the end of the driveshaft, so GTR manual not helpful When you can't find a specific torque work from the diameter of the bolt/stud it is going on, 200ft/lb is about right for an M18 bolt assuming 8.8 strength

that I remember like it was yesterday, it took ages to get to the bottom of that; but it was not necessarily due to heat on that track day, more likely seals that had gone bad over time with water in the fluid etc; we don't really know the history of our cars before they left japan. lucky we aren't talking about flywheels, right? anyway, I'd still start with bleeding for sure...eric let me down (he only shows 1 person) but chris shows how to do it:

never heard of anyone killing their MC seals with heat, I sure didn't with multiple skylines doing billions of laps. Frankly I'd suggest you bleed it, it's a skill worth having and you'll know its done right. The glazed pads can give you a horrible wooden feel, but a squishy pedal is always a bleeding/air problem.

Yeah that's why I suggested a leak "somewhere", it works exactly like you said....slowly disappears without you noticing until there isn't enough coolant left to circulate and temps suddenly go ballistic (because no coolant is actually circulating). I've had the head to 132o and got away with it, I guess you'll be fine. You can always do a compression test if you are worried. On the others 1. No real sign of a leak, discolouring is normal. In any case pressure test the coolant system to about 1.2 bar to make sure there are no other issues. That first pic is the oil return. 2.No idea what that is, but its not necessarily a sensor...could also be a diode or resistor. Could also be the ambient temp sensor for the A/C but I have NFI 3. I'd replace the fan. Looks like the viscous coupling may have been overtightened to the fan leading to cracks there. You dont want it to let go at 7000rpm. 4. Not sure what that is either but unlikely to be brakes (that will run down driver's side I think). Maybe part of the fuel breathing system. No need to touch it if there's no problem 5. They wont really unglaze on their own, more likely to damage the discs running them like that. Give them a good rub on rough concrete then bed them in again. The pedal is probably fluid; bleed it through with good quality fluid like motul RBF

Is the current engine a single cam rb30 with that gear on? That may make it harder, the inlet and exhaust manifolds may have different bolt patterns because of the different head. If someone doesn't know for sure you can always look at an rb30 vs rb25 inlet and exhaust gasket, that will tell you if the mating surfaces and stud locations are the same. Injectors you would have to check if original rb30 ran side feeds in the same size as rb25 I don't know the microtech but again generally the ECU follows the head because that's where all the sensors are; you may well have to change this or at least the engine wiring loom as well

that's a total arsehole of a job; well done doing it on the car without a press

Crappy way to end a day, eh? Too hard to guess on an overheating issue, too many potential causes. Most likely some sort of leak which you can tell by pressure testing the system.

That's a pretty aggressive post considering the unusually polite nature of this thread in the circumstances....go and have a look at some older threads where workshops have ripped people off if you'd like a contrast.

This is probably going to sound odd....but assuming you are doing a rebuild but want to keep the price down, check out the cost of brand new pistons and rings from nissan, they were quite reasonable last I checked. Also FWIW, rods are generally reusable (and will be obvious if they aren't), and so is the oil pump unless the motor spun a bearing. Second hand oil pumps are a minefield because its hard to tell if they are in good condition

Nissan (annoyingly) have both a part code, usually 5 digits although those pics show a 7 digit number, and a part number which is in the format xxxxx-xxxxx like Stripey posted. The part number is what you need to match or order an exact part, the part number is generally the same or similar across all models and you need something like NIssan FAST, together with your specific VIN# to turn it into a part code. Frustratingly I am not aware of any way to reverse search from a part number to the other cars that used the part, although the data must be in FAST...

The nuts on the top of the shock only stop the shock falling out when the suspension is at full droop (eg off the ground or on very uneven ground). If your shock didn't fall out there is nothing to worry about.

Oh BTW, I googled the question and didn't get this answer. Well actually I did because this thread exists but I didn't see the answer elsewhere in the first few pages. People should feel able to ask questions here, it's why the forum exists.

Why the rudeness? If it's too far below you to answer a question without the sarcasm, then don't....

well in that case 32vspec/33/34 GTR used 324x32, why not just use that size and choose from the billion off the shelf options?

unless you are racing the tomei baffle is enough, but the n1 pump has had some bad outcomes, I'd suggest aftermarket gears at a minimum and preferably a nitto or tomei pump

I spotted 25 NEO, stalking me in my driveway! good to meet you

good to see you fixing all the old dodginess, although I'm not sure corolla spec parts are an upgrade. the other thing you should do while it is all apart is take the sump off, upgrade the oil pump and put drop some baffles in the sump. Not much extra work or money from where you are now, but great for peace of mind

Yeah I guess the diff lock button must be a 260RS thing because all the other models have them; strange to exclude because I wasn't aware of any other difference in the ATTESSA system. The only switches normally on the roof are sunroof or courtesy lights

well, at least you're on the right forums now. and your engine is in the usual GTR location (on a stand) It might just be the pics but the timing belt looks worn; unless you know for sure when it was last done it is a good time to do the belt, idler and tensioner bearings, idler stud and water pump

not sure I caught that; are you looking for custom 330mm rotors because you have a custom setup? hopefully the offset you chose for the dogbones matches something already in the market or you will have this problem every time you want rotors. Assuming it is custom you should get something like ATTKD rotors/rings without hats and then have the hat made in the right offset so you don;t have the issue again.