Duncan

Yes that's exactly what he means. I've also seen lots of leaks from the rear fitting. Possibly because it is not tight (it uses a flare fitting) or i f not perished o-ring inside that housing. The transfer case and gearbox are separate internally so you need to identify if the leak is gearbox oil (heavy smelly oil, normally dark honey to black but also possibly smurf blood (thick blue) or purple), vs transfer case leak which is automatic transmission fluid which tends to be red or blue, much thinner and not an oil at all

no pads will cause squealing; no manufacturer put a compound together, glued them to a backing plate, stuck them in a car for a test, heard them squeal like a pig and said "great, let's get them on the shelves". And I mean up to and including sprint or endurance race pads. Yes some more agressive pads are more likely to be noisey but it is always a problem with the car and/or installation. Squeal is a high frequency vibration in something that shouldn't be moving. Like GTSboy said above machining rotors and pads may help if they aren't new (flat), any moving parts like sliding pins, caliper pistons, touch point between pistons and pads (which should be anti squeal shims), hub to disc mounting surface, caliper bolts tight. By far the most common cause is simply brake dust, so get everything nice and clean when you reassemble. If the noise goes away when you add anti squeal goop between the piston and pad that tells you the problem is likely in that contact somewhere. So clean and check the shims are not bent etc

I think maybe your first question was not exactly your real question.....what are you trying to do? what chassis are you trying to do it to? have you broken something already or are you trying to make sure you don't break something? Are you trying to make something handle better?

sadly, yes.

it sounds like the starter isn't disengaging quickly enough....rebuild or replace it

I'd go either 1 or 3, and it depends what you are doing and planning to do with the car in the next 2 years. I can't see why good, standard brakes wouldn't be sufficient for street/light track use, especially if you run semi slicks on the track. 2 is just a path to more pain, everything is 20years old by now....

pls post up or pm me your VIN and we can get the exact part #s

exactly which gaskets do you need, and where are you?

Been towing the Leaf to the rounds of the NSW Hillclimb champs; first round was Bathurst a few weeks back, and then Kempsey this weekend. As usual the Stagea was faultless, other than getting under 250klm per tank..... (sorry for the terrible pic, Kel has an iphone)

hmm I know this is sAU but there is still a bit of arrogance in implying that our dynos are accurate and american ones are not because they read higher. Perhaps our just read lower than normal, it depends where you stand. BTW I am pretty sure our 400m is shorter than a 1/4 mile too....

I'm not certain for R34, but on R32 there is a separate throttle closed switch, it doesn't use the TPS output. in any case the stock ECU wouldn't be adjustable. Have you tested at what voltage/adjustment the throttle switch closes? BTW what are you trying to fix?

interesting idea, I'd love to see a back to back test. yes lower pressure will give you more rubber on the road but I'm not certain that translates directly to extra grip because each contact patch will move more relative to the wheel

FWIW, NSW has recently restarted the dedicated rally car rego scheme after about 10 years. This is a conditional rego for driving to events, practice and mechanics. I guess you'd just need to do the run to the border

well.....I think its very unlikely a factory alarm has failed resulting in indicators flashing but the car still running. Anything factory is bound to be an immobiliser so if it failed car no starty. Check again under the dash in the driver's footwell, alarms are generally a small black box tapped into the wires to the key barrel

Wear in the middle is a good indicator it's overinflated (and that will vary between tyres and sidewall heights) Higher pressures can carry more load, will use less fuel and will handle better. Downside is they can be harsher (but frankly, if you are running 45 or lower profile tyres you've already decided to accept a harsher ride). In my experience tyre shops and mechanics tend to go for a low pressure (30 or lower) and I honestly don't have any idea why

5928 is the GTR brembo size, 324mm, but OP can confirm. Not sure about the adapter because I can't see them in the pics, but I run the same discs and calipers on my race car and I reckon it's a bargain at this price.

yep good call glad its sorted

I've never removed an engine with a triple but I've done lots of singles and a few twins. All work the same way, you tilt the engine incl clutch to clear the bellhousing and then straighten it up as you lower it. You will also need to lower the rear of the gearbox way down so the input shaft is straight to the crank

Odd. Maybe they are all watching Targa vids Try [email protected]

You can remove the motor with clutch but no g/b or even motor+gearbox through the engine bay if you need to. The later requires a lot of tilting.

wow that is unique. got some close up pics of the bolt? know much about the history of the car?

I saw the same, they had a run of problems and then have gone quiet. I'm going to try them for my next box, my car doesn't make big power and I'm willing to take a chance to save that much.... Occasionally the top boxes like hollinger come up on here 2nd hand under $20k, but what everyone forgets with them is the cost of the annual rebuild at hollinger prices...

Saw that car sitting in the locked/closed yard today actually....just in case you weren't aware Edward Lees was shut down for fraud / winding back odometers. This one, right? http://www.edwardlees.com.au/Vehicle/nissan-stagea-wagon-1999-25416 Doesn't mean the car isn't a good deal, but certainly dont trust anything you are told, particularly because this sale would be beyond the reach of NSW Fair Trading department. "Call Edward Lee's 02 97440539 Mobile 0416285333 Phil Lee We deliver Australia wide. Established 1966" Should finish with "Shut down 2016"

I've changed my mind about this the other week.....I'd figured it was for porsche drivers to putt around. But then I did the full track and now I've got a new favourite track, and I'm interested to see what the GTR can do in the sprint (where there is no mimimum time). I don't know the minimum time they will set for the regularity but if it's like the easter run at 2.40 its still pretty quick for an average car. The production race cars were doing 2.27 to 2.40ish. Also, I wouldnt be worried about 50 cars, assuming some good grouping the traffic wont be impossible.

Assuming it used to run without errors, either the crank angle sensor has failed, or it's wiring is damaged. swap it over for another one