Duncan

I haven't looked at the classes for this event, but the great thing about skylines are they are eligible for both group 2(sports cars) and 3(touring cars) because of the combination of 2 doors and a long cabin. I've run the GTR as a sports car a few times and I'm almost certain Neil is running his as a sports car in hillclimbs too.

Oh, and everything on that list is better than the best road tyres I've ever used. I know a lot of street tyres are trying to be cross overs but it's just not the same. Driving on real semis is an awesome experience. I've run on 2 sets of new slicks as well (kumho and falken) and didn't find them particularly better than a good semi slick (plus of course you either need to take wets, or be willing to park if it rains hard). It feels like a lot of the development goes on semis because that's where the sales and money are (outside control tyres in full on racing series of course)

lol I haven't, only the hards. Even those are pretty good, but just soooooooooooooooo expensive. I think a key difference to keep in mind is whether you need medium/hard (racing, rallies, track days) or medium/soft (supersprints, hillclimbs, superlap). My list above has been a mix and it's not fair to assume one brand's hards would be the same relative to their softs either. BTW just my opinion.....over about 15 years but I've never done a back to back comparison of 2 tyres on the same car/day/track so it's not exactly scientific. mostly based on a mix of results and lap times that I've done on each

Dammit I knew I forgot something....they used to be our control tyre I did heaps of laps on them. updated "semi slick hall of fame according to Duncan (SSHOFATD™ ) Hankook Z221 $400ea Dunlop DZ03 $550ea Federal FZ201 (dry only) $300ea Yoko A050 $550ea Kumho V70A $400 Bridgestone Re55s $550ea Yoko A032 Yoko A048 Dunlop D01J/D98J I thought the Federals were excellent for the price and would happily run them again if I didn't have to try and beat people on Hankooks (they are our new control tyre anyway so it's a moot point for racing). I ran both softs (hillclimbs) and hards (circuit) and they were a bit over 0.5sec off the Hankooks. They were diabolical in the wet though, I had commodores overtake me on the inside in the monsoon we were racing in. Not sure how easy they are to get any more though, there was some sort of issue with distribution in Oz.

I've never felt any difference with the Nismo mounts and I've run them in multiple cars for years

probably just needs to bleed any residual air out of the rack. It will either sort itself after a few days, or you could jack up the front and turn lock to lock a few times until it starts running smoothly

Great to see a super GT car locally. It might sound strange but I hope you don't change too much more from original (other than the engine/turbo of course which is easily reverted), its a bit of a shame to see historic race cars changed from their original spec. Good luck out there, hope to see you doing a few different things with it

yeah that would be pretty annoying if a $100 tyre gauge stuffed set of avon slicks....no way of telling how long it's been wrong though.

I was going to say...personally I'd give Harry's opinion some credit given he has been driving a range of cars on a range of circuits over a decade or 2....but he got in first. I mostly keep an eye on 245/45/17 prices because that's what I run on the race car, my opinion from fastest to not: Hankook Z221 $400ea Dunlop DZ03 $550ea Federal FZ201 (dry only) $300ea Yoko A050 $550ea Bridgestone Re55s $550ea Yoko A032 Yoko A048 Dunlop D01J/D98J I've probably used a few others but can't remember everything Other tyres like Toyo 888 I've never tried but anyone who has on a heavy car says they don't work well. They seem to be good on clubbies/mx5 etc. I've never tried the Nittos.

mebbe they do...but I did my fastest ever lap in a production car on very old Z221s the other week. There are a lot of variables in tyres and how they are treated so it's not surprising people get different results.

While I haven't used most of the tyres discussed recently, I have done a fair amount of time on the Z221s in mediums, have seen them on Neil's hillclimb car in softs, and have seen them on other rally or supersprint cars and they are probably the best semi around at the moment. They also lasted very well, there were cars at the Bathurst 6 hours who used 1 set all weekend.... Much more importantly though, they are very cheap compared to the established brands like yoko or dunlop. If you can't afford the hankooks you can't afford semis.....and yes tyres are probably the most expensive part of tracking your car (along with brakes, fuel, maintenance, accommodation, tow car fuel, entry fees etc)

rub inner or outer guard?

I'll be putting the cooler under the rear seat on the passenger side, with ducting to direct air to it, same as the gibson cars had for their transfer case cooler. I'm just missing any proof it's a good idea

yeah I might check it again once everything is back together and running.....I've got a fuel cooler to put on but I've not been able to find hard numbers about either what heat is added, or how that heat affects octane

Hmmm I realized after the recent replies that I never came back with my plans; I've stuck with my current setup (lift pump + 040) and will run the additive when (if?) I run e85. I just couldn't find an e85 external pump that I could use without changing the otherwise excellent external surge tank, and I don't have a particularly large fuel requirement as it's a production car. BTW Mick I was also intrigued about your statement that it is the engine/fuel rail that warms up fuel, I always assumed it was running fuel through a pump that warmed it. So I ran fuel through a pump and back into a tank (not via a running engine) with a pump at full noise for 20min and the fuel heated up by 10o over ambient, ie stuff all. I've never tested fuel temps circulating through a running engine so I don't know how that would compare to 10o.....I also don't know exactly how temps affect fuel (either by reducing octane or oxygen %) so I don't know if 10o is even relevant; I guess not....

yeah I've got the Japanese C34 manual, just pm me your email addresses.....

So despite Mark Perry's commitment to "stability" in the regs, the latest change is to ban e85. Not good for my wallet since I've just spent thousands on ECU, flex sensor, fuel lines, pumps etc so I could run it at targa, but I do think it's good for the sport to slow cars down.....faster cars = bigger crashes = sooner that we are not allowed to do this any more.

Not my experience, I run a cooling pro in the race car and have done up to an hour's race without running hot.

Yep, and in an unusual stroke of luck I have one of each type of caliper here. You need to look closely inside where the brake line bolts in because the fitting is at the bottom Caliper without a flare fitting Caliper with a flare fitting The brake line side showing the flare that matches the fitting in the caliper. Basically, the top type expects a brake line with a banjo bolt and copper washers, and the middle/second type expects a flared fitting like the 3rd pic. You need to work out what brake lines you are using to decide if your caliper needs to be the first or second type. In each case I've tried the fitting in the caliper is removable if you need to convert to banjo type.

No chatting in the For Sale section. It is up to the seller to decide the price

In almost every case, gearbox breakages come down to driving style and to a lesser extent clutch choice. The standard gearboxes are as strong as anything in most vehicles, it is also almost identical to the navara gearbox. If in doubt stay standard until you prove you are an abuser by breaking it....

Be careful, if they came without hard lines the "olive" has probably also been removed from the caliper. There are 2 ways to fit brake lines, either flared hard lines (like factory) that have a matching flared olive inside the caliper, or just using a banjo bolt and copper washers. Most aftermarket kits use the second as it is simpler and cheaper, so depending on your application you may not need the hard lines at all. Also, you might be able to find them second hand because most people throw them away with conversions

Plus, you'll never get a turbo conversion running for under $3k so it will work out more expensive anyway

Sorry, I was a bit short in the first response but we get a surprising number of threads which say pad XYZ is crap because it squeals (not that you said that). Obviously no manufacturer releases a pad that squeals because they'd never sell the second set.... So basically, if you have a look around this section there are a lot more detailed suggestions, but basically brake squeal is caused by a high frequency vibration in the system somewhere, most often because something is not clean or flat.....top of the caliper's piston, missing or bent anti squeal shims, sliding pins not greased properly, pad not flat particularly on the leading edge for the rotor, rotor not sitting flat on the hub due to dust or rust BTW if a workshop did the pads take it back for them to fix it, it can be time consuming and frustrating to chase an issue like this.

Well you are probably on the right track. It sounds like the starter motor is working OK because you said the engine turned so no need to worry about it, battery etc. Both the ECU and the ECCS relay (blue I think) that turns the ECU on are in the passenger kick panel so you could start by pulling it off and checking that out. The buzzing sound could be a dead or dying relay but generally they either just stop working or jam on all the time. But also, do you have a factory and/or aftermarket immobiliser? That is a more likely place to fail. What happens when you turn the key from off to IGN, do you get all the usual lights on the dash?