Duncan

Both posters are most likely due to the seal around the tank lid, not the actual fuel lines themselves. Lots of shops don't get the lid right if they have been in the tank to change to pump or inspect the level sender. Take the cover off inside the car and undo the large plastic ring, a large bladed screwdriver/pry bar and gentle taps from a hammer will do the trick. Then inspect the rubber seal for damage or cracks (it's probably OK), then carefully reseat it, spray some wd40 on the plastic ring and carefully screw it back on. Because it's such a large thread its easy to cross thread it which will make it seem like it is sealed properly when it isn't.

where are you? no location on your profile....

wire brush on a grinder will do it. plus brake cleaner and scrubbing in tight corners

and give the fork a wiggle too, if the pivot is broken inside the box you'll get those symptoms

The key pic internally is to take the inside of the hole you can just see in the first pic. Assuming its a mechanical centre there are ramps inside that determine if it's 1, 2 or 1.5 way, they look like |/, \/, or a halfway between those 2 respectively. Also there will be a ratio stamped on the main gear as well, something like 37:9 which is the 4.11 diff. edit, cancel that, I can see you have that in the 3rd pic I don't know how to tell the brand of the centre, others might, but personally I don't think it matters too much

Thread closed. The behaviour in this thread is unacceptable.

And it has. This thread is locked and the troll is banned for now. Feel free to discuss turbos, just keep the personal crap out of it.

Chris at craved did mine too, great job, he used a heat radiating powercoating

thanks mate but I'm pretty sure its the same source (pdf manual) that I had....check out p777 the detail isn't readable and the one you posted doesn't say which fuse is which, it just shows there is a fuse

well, judging from his youtube, he not only sped through a school zone, but did it sideways on the grass.... ....so, fun, presumably.....

yeah and the outer rods ends off the hub. but it's all pretty straightforward.

Firstly, if anyone has a readable copy of the GTR wiring diagram I'd love a copy! Fuse 7 (IGN) seems to connect to: Exhaust temp sensor HICAS computer Steering angle sensor A/T ECU (GTS4 only) I take it that the actual issue is that the car doesn't start with that fuse blown? If so there is more to it than what I just listed, like I said the diagram in the PDF manual is pretty much unreadable (its on page 777 if you want to try, top leftish marked IGN #7 10A, also joins to 20 on page 780 (also top left, marked IGN #7) but none of HICAS or the EGT sensor is required to start the car. BTW it's very likely your EGT sensor is also disconnected, it lives in the cat from factory and is not reinstalled in most cars when a custom cat/zorst is installed. Plug is probably unplugged under your passenger seat somewhere Also it's possible the fuse problem is not the cause of your car not starting, could be a goose chase...

Yes

holy shit! great work doesn't even start to cover that! what was the firewall from, out of interest? And is it a totally custom dash?

I mustn't have been clear enough. No chatting in FS threads, if you want a discussion of different blocks start a thread to so so elsewhere. Next off topic or chatting posters will be warned and/or banned.

While its an F50 not an M35, I have a very similar screen and software, still in jap, and I use it all the time on the fuel economy screen. No need to be aggressive in dismissing the questions from a new member just because you don't agree....why not just make your point politely and leave it at that?

Thanks for closing the loop, and good advice on how to deal with a similar issue. Given that the tribunal has ruled on this issue, who was the workshop that did the faulty work?

I don't know specifically about dr 30 transmissions, but the numbers you posted above (3201007S61 for 83 cars prior to August and 3201007S60 for August 83 to 85 ) is the nissan part number. Sadly the full nissan part number is not generally not stamped on a part, but using Nissan Fast you can find the correct part number for any given VIN code and also there is no reverse lookup from the part number to donor cars either

good luck up there, enjoy the skids

I'd start with checking the bulb, it's likely missing or burned out, and it's possible VDC comes on because the MIL globe is not working (since you obviously can't show a failure of the MIL light using the MIL light). So best case, nothing is wrong at all except that. I take it there is no sign of any problem except the lights and the P0650 using the scan tool. And Callan thanks for the link, I never realised OBD codes were common (although it makes sense, since they are designed to allow non manufacturers to service cars). I assume not all codes are common to all cars though because many cars have specific or even unique functions.

oh BTW....keep in mind, no-one ever ran in your factory diff....they just bolted it in, delivered the car to the first owner and told us to change the oil after 40,000klm or similar. That includes factory mechanical diffs in the GTR,

Terry at award gearboxes in sydney simply recommends light load (no skids, no towing etc) for first 500klm then an oil change, he is also strong on never using synthetic diff oil as it can be too slippery and lead to glazing of the gears (he correctly guessed I used to use synthetic by looking at the wear on my race car's diff). Of course mine is a race and and it won't get any break in....I'll just change the oil after the first day.

More than enough chatting in this thread thanks. If you want to buy this block or clarify something about it, this is the place for it. If you want a billet or n1 block please find a relevant thread

I'm sorry I can't help with which specific brake lines will fit, but you will be able to remove the remainder of the hard lines in the caliper by just undoing the nut. Once you, if you look inside the caliper you will see there is a cone shaped fitting that the hard line seals to. If you don't remove that fitting you can use a brake line with a flared end. If you remove that fitting you should use a brake line with a banjo bolt and copper washers. The lack of hard line only impacts the length of the brake line you need. Start by seeing if your standard lines are long enough and you'll be able to decide how long you need from there.

No you do not need to change them both; but it is much cheaper and easier to do it while the drive shaft is out if you have any doubts about the outer one. eg $150 to change one boot or $160 to change both including R&R....