Duncan

you know, that's a damn good question....moved somewhere more appropriate

good to hear it was at the fitting really......making them was straightforward but there were things to check around the cut end of the hose and how far it pulls in while assembling that someone could get wrong. So far so good.. yeah I really need to support both ends I think, especially since its a big/heavy core

the oil filter is on a simple bracket of right angle 3mm steel (because I hate filter mounts that twist when you try and remove them). countersunk stainless bolts into the filter mount on one side and into 3 thread inserts on the car side. Nice and solid. the stagea mount is just to give a little clearance between oil lines and the engine, I think most people just do it rb30 style and bolt the relocator straight to the block which also works fine.

well based on my awesomely wide experience of 1.....yes I guess it depends what failed for you, hose or fitting, and whether the hose was in good condition or possibly damaged? I think enough people have used these types of fittings at all levels of racing to be OK with it. But it's a good reminder I should put some more padding around the hoses in a couple of places and monitor it for rubbing.

BTW interesting point about the cold, it was kind of left of every manufacturers' websites. The LEAF obviously uses Lithium batteries for the main pack, they come with what I assume was coolant...but maybe it is actually warmant for cold climates. They certainly work fine in places like Norway where it is 2nd top selling car behind tesla s (which also runs lithium)

Excellent, thanks guys that is exactly the sort of feedback I was looking for. I won't be touching one with a barge-pole....will stick with the Odyssey

no they've been good all the way through....good enough to win SAU Texi and 9th in the nulon nats motorkhana against cars one semis yes they are a little noisey which is what I expect from a performance road tyre. quieter than semis but noisier than your average camry

I'm sure you guys have checked it out, but how can a ball joint be "non-replaceable". Do you mean you can't find a ball joint in the right spec, or is it glued in with magic glue? a few skyline arms have been listed as having non-replaceable ball joints over the years but sooner or later aftermarket will do them in the right size....I can see why Nissan parts aren't interested when they can charge you $500....

we are running the Dunlop sport maxx on the Leaf and they are excellent road performance tyres (not race tyres of course). great grip for street use and they have lasted about 15,000klm and need replacing now. About $300ea from Tire rack.

thanks for the responses. I'll check out Braille too, I had looked at SSB. Yes they are not cheap, about 1/3 the weight and 3x the price of AGM batteries interesting question about A/hr ratings, I don't know what I actually need given it is race use. I expect the alternator to do all the work, I never lean on the battery except for starting. I currently use a 16ahr battery which claims 520PHCA / 170CCA at the moment and it is fine (Odyssey PC680). Might end up back there depending on what I learn

I can't see any reason why a properly wired in standard ECU would give you issues. It would get you going cheaply then from there you can go aftermaket plugin like powerFC or Haltech later when funds allow. standard ECU will start to be a problem if you start modifying; you will need to change it if you run more than about 14psi boost, larger injectors, larger turbo or larger AFMs

it sounds to me like it's been a tooth out all along. if you have the belt off now time to double check it all.

A little slow, but I added pics of my setup to my build thread: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/450937-duncans-race-car-the-most-overdue-build-thread-on-sau/page-8#entry7652588

there was a question elsewhere about the oil filter/cooler/thermostat system and I realised there were no pics in this thread. I have a large oil cooler where the a/c cooler is factory. Upside down to help it drain if I need to. Custom bracket bolted to the radiator support and I'm about to add another bracket between the bonnet catch support and the bottom (top?) of the cooler because I'm not happy with how much it can move when bouncing over ripple strips Removed the factory oil/water interchanger, mostly because they are impossible to clean once a set of bearings have been through them and they are $400+ to replace from Nissan. I now have a Stagea mount which angles the fitting nicely to an Earls relocator. Dash 10 Teflon braided lines. Remote filter locator in right guard between the intercooler hose and the BOVs Earls thermostat behind the reo under the headlight. This required a whole heap of fittings and strange angles. It also has mounts for temp and 2 pressure senders (currently factory and aftermarket gauge, I am changing the aftermarket gauge sender across to the haltech sender but the same basic setup. The thermostat requires a lot of fittings but I think it's worth it considering the range of ways the engine is used; driving to events, cold mornings, endures, hillclimbs etc. Close up Slightly better perspective of location Setup has been excellent, no signs of running either too hot or cold even in the most challenging times including 40o+ 20min rally stage BTW, anyone thinking of doing braided lines, make them up yourself. They are straightforward with instructions and care. The much bigger trick is working out how to mount and route everything because fittings take up a huge amount of space.

Good on Toyo for answering so swiftly. But I'd wonder how a puncture occurred, they aren't really that common on tracks (common enough off tracks )

I'm looking into to changing over to a Lithium battery; it will be a pain to move the battery from stock location so the next best thing is to reduce weight on the front right corner. Is anyone using a Lithium battery? Which brand/model, any problems or observations?

BTW love the brown paint scheme, very authentic. anyway, you can find shorter ratios from those suggestions above. For the centre I am not sure what those 3x2 bolt half shafts come in so count the splines as well. There should be many mechanical aftermarket options, kaaz are cheap

And 4.4 is the shortest in the r chassis anyway, although as you said you might be able to find something from a Nissan commercial. C34 stagea, r32 gts4 and I think r32 gtst auto all ran the short gears. Its a bit harder if it is an r180 not r200 rear diff; there are plenty of mechanical LSD r200 centres you could chose from (all you need for the ratio is to use your existing crown wheel and pinion with the new centre and matching half shafts.

Very interesting, thanks for posting that up. The Kumho v70s like very high pressures (45ish) as well. I have to say though, there is a huge leap in target pressure between a 1000 and 1400kg car, and while I don't know more than the manufacturer I wonder if they recommend that high because they tyres can fail otherwise (at the cost of performance, as many have pointed out about these tyres on a skyline...) The other thing that table tells us is 17psi is not too low for a starting pressure....

I should add....this isn't exactly a new problem. Even the Gibson GTR touring cars used to launch in rwd and not switch to 4wd until 2nd.... While I've done a lot of race and rally launches and never broken anything (except overheating clutches), I also don't have much power compared to your average 400kw street car these days.

well, 22 definitely isn't too low for a starting pressure, but like djr said you might have been unlucky while warming up, especially since it failed immediately. It's easy to add 10psi to a tyre on a heavy car once it is working hard I'd ask toyo in this case.

definitely a wiring mistake of some sort, but I wouldn't worry about it if it works correctly without the fuse in. Pretty much everything in the ECU runs through the ECCS relay which is controlled by the ECU. So if for example they have wired battery 12v through that fuse to the ECU instead of from the ignition key it would never know you turned the key off, and never stop running

Oh, and I should add, there are readily available LEDs that can replace these globes too if you want the opportunity for an upgrade. Elrodeo666 on these forums is one source

well here is the fast diagram, the bulb part number for my VIN is 28529-05U00. Having said that, it seems unlikely they have all gone at once for no other reason. I've not had that unit in the car for a while but I assume the lights are meant to come on when the headlights do? If so, which other lights do or don't light up when the headlights do? Dash? Radio? Other dash buttons? It seems more likely a fuse is blown or there is a wiring issue. I don't have it handy at the moment, but from memory the dash/switch lights come from the taillight fuse because they come on at the same time. From there, there are about a billion joins in the loom and one of those may have failed. They also join through either a pink or green common joiner near the fuse box so something may be missing there as well. either way, you could probably tap into something like the dash's lights and run a wire to the climate control unit if that is the issue.

f**kign cars. Post is a year old next week but still future tense. everything always takes much longer and costs much more than you expect.