Duncan

yeah that was just a generic pic from here somewhere. this is from my s1 c34 consult is the grey plug underneath. it may be tucked away as mine doesn't seem to be mounted

sorry yes forgot to add that bit, it is a grey or white plug near the fuse box. eg

good news then, mines is just a standard ECU with a tune. the ABS might actually use separate pins to the engine data anyway.

Yep, covers still available. RB26 Engine Covers set 1 Cam covers, valley cover, timing cover, plenum Perfect for powercoating to whatever colour/finish you prefer $600 It's probably time I reposted the thread it's getting a bit difficult to see what's still there....

have you got a standard ECU? I'd put a consult on it to get the error.

hmm, surprised no-one has done it, I would have thought the R35 guys would have had the issue. Mick thanks for the S15 info but I started with 2.7 ohms (S15 and 350z sized) but it didn't do the trick for the cima passenger bag which is what I need in this case. In the absence of better information I'm doing it the slow and safe way and using a variable resistor to find what the car is happy with.

Yeah I agree, the stagea box will be fine unless you are putting out some serious numbers, it will be by far the easiest option to fit and wire up. And I reckon, if you want a GTR and you need an auto, go for it! It's your damn car, do what you like

I am looking at removing an airbag but don't want to disable the whole system, so I need to know what resistance to add to trick the airbag computer. The workshop manual and most of the internet say that if I use a multimeter to measure the airbag's resistance it will blow up in my face from the multimeter voltage. I do note my multimeter has a 9V battery so maybe it is close enough to 12v to do it.... This guy did it anyway, but I'm not convinced they removed the shorting bar because it reads 0 across the board. This guy removes the shorting bar, measures it, and doesn't die. Has anyone done this safely?

The part you linked to is for 2WD models only, I recently got a pair of nissan bearings through just jap for my 32 GTR and they were about twice that price. Pretty sure there is no aftermarket option for GTR.

funnily enough, I just finished cleaning out the boot lock on my 32 since the key wasn't working most of the time. Once the barrel was out it was clearly hard to turn with the key. Basically I cleaned the barrel thoroughly with brake cleaner, turning the key to work the tumblers around. Once it dried out I lubed it with some graphite powder, it works perfectly now. I'm not clear on what you mean by mechanical part, but if it includes the lock barrel give that a go. For the rest of the components I just cleaned them out with brake cleaner and then used lithium grease on the moving parts, although I'm sure regular grease would have been fine. Do you have a pic of where exactly you think the problem is? BTW I wouldn't discount that the second hard part is also just dirty...it's the same age afterall...

There are a heap of timing belt threads in the DIY section, or did you mean head reassembly? http://www.sau.com.au/forums/forum/57-tutorials-diy-faq/

ahh Merry Christmas Wayne

thanks mate, the SSB were what I was looking at too. I decided to stick with the current setup for reliability. and good point about different batteries Ryan, that is my understanding too...its why the expensive chargers have different modes for different batteries....I am not sure of the detail but there is something about both batteries being limited to the voltage of the lower battery when you charge, which is not sufficient for an AGM battery. I guess a single battery system with a lithium battery will be OK as long as the alternator's regulator charges high enough for what the particular battery wants.

and change that timing belt ASAP. no 20 year old car has only done 90,000klm.... BTW did you buy it from Edward Lees?

definitely not mine then, it was dark blue from the factory very unusual colour, I always liked it

turn car upside and shake until no further coolant comes out.

not impossible then....when it left me it had a bleed valve and lowered springs...I don't have a VIN to check but I always wondered where that reliable old bus ended up

BTW totally off topic, but is that my old car Johnny? I only ever saw 2 dark blue s2 in Sydney, the other one was Nathan Pilkington's old car

well that is the basic difference in 2 fundamentally different schools of thoughts about spring rates. The high spring rate/ light or no swaybar camp (eg MCA) use high spring rates to control both rear/aft and side/side movement. The low spring rate/ harder swaybar camp (eg Sydneykid) say there is benefit in using swaybars for at least some of the side/side because it does not affect fore/aft and it is more readily tunable. so yes, you would expect less traction out of corners from the high spring rate approach because there is less squat/less weight on the rear wheels and therefore less grip. Not so much of an issue with 4wd of course. btw braking balance is affected just as much by this sort of change; the right front/rear balance may change if you change the spring rates too

lol GTSBoy it's better that way

yeah bright red was the best of the stock colours.....I also had a limited edition gunmetal grey car and repainted it yellow (although a lot brighter than yours looks). enjoy the build BTW my Cima was R grade....a good repair job can be excellent value because so many people leave them alone without checking first.

Christmas is the best time of year for cool tools I bought kinchrome stuff for weekend use vs price, obviously there is better stuff if you are on the tools every day, but I've not broken anything yet. they have 2 lines of ratchets though, the basic ones are a bit crap but the nice ones are great. Oh I can accept it can be done....but not really "easy" right? I've been using the manual tool from earlier in thread and while it works, and in very small places, it is hard work. yep, they are totally f**king awesome. even in the garage I almost never use air I just grab the electric one instead.

you know, that's a damn good question....moved somewhere more appropriate

good to hear it was at the fitting really......making them was straightforward but there were things to check around the cut end of the hose and how far it pulls in while assembling that someone could get wrong. So far so good.. yeah I really need to support both ends I think, especially since its a big/heavy core

the oil filter is on a simple bracket of right angle 3mm steel (because I hate filter mounts that twist when you try and remove them). countersunk stainless bolts into the filter mount on one side and into 3 thread inserts on the car side. Nice and solid. the stagea mount is just to give a little clearance between oil lines and the engine, I think most people just do it rb30 style and bolt the relocator straight to the block which also works fine.