Duncan

I'm not certain for R34, but on R32 there is a separate throttle closed switch, it doesn't use the TPS output. in any case the stock ECU wouldn't be adjustable. Have you tested at what voltage/adjustment the throttle switch closes? BTW what are you trying to fix?

interesting idea, I'd love to see a back to back test. yes lower pressure will give you more rubber on the road but I'm not certain that translates directly to extra grip because each contact patch will move more relative to the wheel

FWIW, NSW has recently restarted the dedicated rally car rego scheme after about 10 years. This is a conditional rego for driving to events, practice and mechanics. I guess you'd just need to do the run to the border

well.....I think its very unlikely a factory alarm has failed resulting in indicators flashing but the car still running. Anything factory is bound to be an immobiliser so if it failed car no starty. Check again under the dash in the driver's footwell, alarms are generally a small black box tapped into the wires to the key barrel

Wear in the middle is a good indicator it's overinflated (and that will vary between tyres and sidewall heights) Higher pressures can carry more load, will use less fuel and will handle better. Downside is they can be harsher (but frankly, if you are running 45 or lower profile tyres you've already decided to accept a harsher ride). In my experience tyre shops and mechanics tend to go for a low pressure (30 or lower) and I honestly don't have any idea why

5928 is the GTR brembo size, 324mm, but OP can confirm. Not sure about the adapter because I can't see them in the pics, but I run the same discs and calipers on my race car and I reckon it's a bargain at this price.

yep good call glad its sorted

I've never removed an engine with a triple but I've done lots of singles and a few twins. All work the same way, you tilt the engine incl clutch to clear the bellhousing and then straighten it up as you lower it. You will also need to lower the rear of the gearbox way down so the input shaft is straight to the crank

Odd. Maybe they are all watching Targa vids Try [email protected]

You can remove the motor with clutch but no g/b or even motor+gearbox through the engine bay if you need to. The later requires a lot of tilting.

wow that is unique. got some close up pics of the bolt? know much about the history of the car?

I saw the same, they had a run of problems and then have gone quiet. I'm going to try them for my next box, my car doesn't make big power and I'm willing to take a chance to save that much.... Occasionally the top boxes like hollinger come up on here 2nd hand under $20k, but what everyone forgets with them is the cost of the annual rebuild at hollinger prices...

Saw that car sitting in the locked/closed yard today actually....just in case you weren't aware Edward Lees was shut down for fraud / winding back odometers. This one, right? http://www.edwardlees.com.au/Vehicle/nissan-stagea-wagon-1999-25416 Doesn't mean the car isn't a good deal, but certainly dont trust anything you are told, particularly because this sale would be beyond the reach of NSW Fair Trading department. "Call Edward Lee's 02 97440539 Mobile 0416285333 Phil Lee We deliver Australia wide. Established 1966" Should finish with "Shut down 2016"

I've changed my mind about this the other week.....I'd figured it was for porsche drivers to putt around. But then I did the full track and now I've got a new favourite track, and I'm interested to see what the GTR can do in the sprint (where there is no mimimum time). I don't know the minimum time they will set for the regularity but if it's like the easter run at 2.40 its still pretty quick for an average car. The production race cars were doing 2.27 to 2.40ish. Also, I wouldnt be worried about 50 cars, assuming some good grouping the traffic wont be impossible.

Assuming it used to run without errors, either the crank angle sensor has failed, or it's wiring is damaged. swap it over for another one

its got to be a sticky relay. the attessa ones are both in the boot between the tail lights on the left of the lock

what engine? I've got at least one spare for an rb26. Even if not I think you can find them second hand, they are often removed when cooling systems are modifiied

Assuming you are not insured....otherwise call them I would have no concern pulling it back straight, all the upper radiator support does is hold the radiator, bonnet latch, horns and some wiring in approximately the right place. Yes the "proper" way to fix is to buy a new one from nissan, cut the old one out and weld a new one in. the only difference would be the latter would be much less obvious repair when you sell the car.

Personally I'd be deeply embarrassed to be seen in an evo, and I don't have specific suggestions. but you can find all workshops that can comply evo 8s in NSW here: http://raws.infrastructure.gov.au/rawswebpublic/RAWPubSearch.asp#results , i got 19. And yes one of them appears to be a trading name from good old sunrise cars/edward lees, since shut down to avoid legal action for winding back odometers

Why on earth would you need to add an engine number in the car? did you buy a new block and are concerned about rego?

Assuming the pedal is like a block of unresponsive wood, vacuum booster issue would be the most obvious. not sure exactly what you have checked from the post above...I'd check for Split in the line from the plenum to the one way valve to the vaucuum cannister to the booster under the master cylinder. Check the one way valve works properly (blow through should work one way but not the other) Possibly failed booster (although they are generally reliable) Easy to check the booster because the pedal will feel totally different when the car is stationary with engine off vs engine idling Alternatively it could be horrible pads, cracked brake pedal bracket. But they shouldnt feel *that* bad ABS seems unlikely, the most common failure is a leak and while there are lots of interesting internals I can't see how a hard pedal would be a result

lol yes, after 20 years and a couple of hundred thousand ks the limited seems to go missing, leaving a slip diff. Might have been the non-turbos that have an open rear diff

I suspect it's because that's what the import laws require. Furthermore they have to destroy all aftermarket parts and retain proof of their destruction. It is possible not all importers always follow the law though, there might be some bad apples out there.

Isn't the auto also an open diff? not sure....the manual is viscous LSD

hmm well it looks like Liam's awesome run of reliability (luck?) has come to an end, some sort of diff problem last night and retirement today Kel and Steve changed a gearbox after the symmons plains day and a kingpin bearing failed today but they've changed the upright and still going OK. 3rd in EM today. Looks like Ben's running 2nd in GT4 in the dirty subbie just behind super sub Timmy also in a dirty subbie, good luck guys I love Quinny's style.....what do you post up if you put your lambo up a bank? (and he blamed the bloody nissans and other rough cars ....)