Duncan

you opening an import dealership?

Yeah mate the trailer is awesome, been quite a step up from the death trailer that we used for so long. An interesting sideline from the weekend..... At the Federal tyres tech night Mick Hart pointed out that the width of tyres are not always the same between brands, and that semi slicks in particular vary a lot. So here's an example.....some Dunlop 245 and Federal 245 next to each other on the floor.... The pair of Federals are at least 15mm wider than the dunlops As far as actual race car work, I've got this de-pressing pile to get to (you are dead right Charles!). Actually spent a fair bit of time trying to remove some 25 year old studs from a hub and had no luck; neither bashing nor pressing up to 5tonnes....the damn things were not about to fall out. And some actual car work....I've been running standard sized wheels all this time, 17x8 which has plenty of clearance inner and outer to the standard guards. But Targa rules allow +2" so I'm looking to fit some 18x10s to allow rubber that will last longer.... Interestingly, what everyone says "fits" doesn't really....ie what looks good does not provide much clearance. I bought a set of light and strong rays in 18x 9.5 +12 but even with 245 tyres on and rolled guards there is less than 10mm clearance to the outer guard at full compression, but at least 25mm to the tie rod end and over 40mm to the inner guard. So, stuffed if I can see the point of a 2" wider wheel that has to run the same 245s I put on 8" rims.....sadly that means these purty rims are up for sale and I'm looking for 18x10 +25 to +35 offset in a similar forged rim In any case, rolling one rear is done, I'll get the other side and the front done next weekend. As you can see I took the spring off but put the shock back in so I could easily check the wheel over it's full movement. BTW if you ever do it, remember to disconnect the sway bar too

its all skyline sized in there, so just grab ones to suit 32 gtr or 33 gtst. I'm using the ones that came with the 32 gtr g4 kit

oh yeah, that's another thing. less pies = faster laps arms are not a simple choice because the cheap ones invariably use cheap rod end bearings which flog out and start knocking reasonably quickly in road use....

It's unlikely you need aftermarket arms, you can get pretty much any sensible alignment with just adjustable bushes in the factory stuff. Also, depending on the arms you get they sometimes have a habit of breaking unexpectedly....

Hi mate, rather than looking for a different clutch, you need to work out why you are "burning through" them if they only last a month or 3. How do they fail? How are you treating them?

if it runs well and doesn't blow smoke, don't worry about it. btw does it have standard cams? the number are low but cams can affect that (and also the exact testing procedure of course(

got a mate who needs to do the timing belt on a liberty locally.....any shops who know them well?

Been a while since an update. Has Cheryl taken any lap records or made any podiums this year?

yeah its outrageously hard to remove....I'd suggest getting a shop to do it. The sensors themselves have terrible sides on the hex it is really easy to round off once you've dropped the box down enough to get to it in the first place.

That VIN was build in 10/97. I agree, most likely the person you bought it from pocketed the $1000 for downgrading the brakes :thumbsdown: Having said that the 32 brakes are fine for street use, and Ksport/ATTKD etc make good upgrades from about 2000

lol yeah sucks to be you. or me. honestly I think you need someone to trace it through...I don't have the details of all the changes but there were a bunch of differences between 0V310 ECUs and the R34 loom. Is yours running OK? Where other changes required? If it's just the AC check what trigger the compressor is expecting by either earthing or applying 12v (via a 10A fuse)

We bought this Cube as a cheap and easy daily drive back in Nov 2010, first Australian owners after Just Jap imported it. Now I'm working and Canberra and have the Cima, the Cube is sitting around so it's time to move it on to a new owner. 2003 BZ11 Nissan Cube 165,000klm 4 months rego Serviced every 5,000klm since import, in good condition Details are: 4 speed auto Fuel efficient 1.4l engine, gives 5l/100klm Air con, power steer, power windows, auto headlights, ABS, airbags, central locking Includes factory wheel arch flares and mild bodykit 18" wheels to really show off the rear drum brakes Has a genuine HKS exhaust which adds a nice note without being loud or drone-y. Interior, exterior and mechanically in good condition Easy to park due to awesome steering angles and visibility Plenty of interior space Easy to find in carparks...

yep, if yours is 97 it is late type (same as R34 GTT I think). Middle model is August 96 (mine) and the first model was prior to that. Workshop manual shows the first wiring layout, I understand the late type is identical to 34 gtt but I'll let someone else confirm. Alternatively if you post up your VIN (or pm to me if you prefer privacy) someone with FAST can look up your ECU part number to confirm

seriously, I was just making sure 4wd was working correctly

well....keeping in mind there are at least 3 ecu pinouts and mine was the weird one.....I had to change from negative switch to positive switch for the compressor in my car, just modified the wiring at the relay. I don't have the detail of which pin it was but I don't remember having to change it...was a few years ago. So start with checking what you have and what you need in the AC switch. P74 of the stagea manual shows pin 14 is the one for the first wiring type.

is that all you've got I just wanted to get a better view of the exit of turn 2. you can almost see the tarmac on the right side of the picture

good driving mate, looks like fun. and BTW

BTW tim, leave the cones alone this time

just look for the grumpiest old bloke there. actually, here's a pic, that's him on the right

might need pics, in most skylines they are added during compliance so it could be any setup. you do need a high mount stop light to be legal, are you looking to remove or replace?

no, it is pretty high. I think dynopack might be a hub dyno. If I am reading the last graph correctly the standard turbo(purple?) is at 18psi which is high for a standard turbo. my race car makes less than that with r32 n1s at standard boost (12psi).

Nismo AFMs cannot be run with an unmodified standard computer, likewise you cant replace nismo AFMs with standard ones without retuning. Nismo ones often come up on here at good prices as people move up to AFM-less computers. BTW what makes you think the AFM is dying? without monitoring the voltage it can be hard to tell, and its unlikely 2 are failing in the same way at the same time

standard should be fine....what sort of use will they have? motorsport?

definitely get it from under the car. you might be able to get it with a regular ring spanner, if not a stubby spanner will definitely get in there. If it is too tight to undo with the short spanner just use a short piece of rope thru the end of the spanner and pull downwards, that will give you enough leverage.