Duncan

Yep there is a plastic float for the fuel sender, but if it is working OK it is connected OK It should not contact the side of the tank though, just check that the float/pump mount is aligned properly (ie 2 outlets facing the front of the car) and it should not hit anything

well that prolly makes find space easier. also explains why he does that bloody drive all the time have a great break everyone

thanks, that one is gone.

yeah I do the drive once a week for work too, but can't really move a bonnet....they just won't fit inside anything short of a van or truck

lol you can say it's name, it's the price that hurts....over 20k.... Plus sequentials are illegal in every racing category in Australia except supercars and Porsche cup.....so it would make an expensive trackday car

There are very few differences between standard 32 and 33 gearboxes, and in any case the 32 stuff has been superseded by Nissan with the 33 series 3 internals; so if you rebuild your box you get 33 series 3 stuff anyway. A standard box is fine for 350kw assuming you are not abusing it (and it sounds like you aren't). If your current gearbox is noisey (bearings) or crunchy (synchros) you can get it rebuilt for under 2k. But in most cases noisey is the thrust bearing which is external to the box and easily replaced, the second most common noise is the front bearing on the gearbox which can also be replaced without much trouble. BTW you don't have to change the clutch to use a 33 gearbox, they can be converted back to r32 style (pull clutch) by swapping across the front cover of your current box into a 33 one. I bought a brand new 33 box years ago for the race car and did that conversion to suit 32. Unless you have money burning a hole in your pocket I wouldn't do anything gearbox wise

Hi Ben, what's wrong with you current gearbox, and what are your future plans for the car? They are a very strong box from the factory (not many cars come standard with a box that handles 2-3x factory power) so what you have may not need anything, particularly if it doesn't crunch on quick changes from 4th to 5th If on the other hand you are building another 500kw time attack car, you will need something a bit more expensive.....

Hope you are sure it's the bearing! I'm not certain for 33 gtst, but for 32 gtr they are available from Nissan only ~350 trade price. So 300 to R & R is reasonable considering the work involved.

front or rear? the front is totally different between 4wd (double wishbone) and 2wd (struts, I think similar to silvia or something). the rear is more similar but there may still be differences in the lower shock mounting point, the basic setup will be the same. might also be hicas/non hicas differences

Isn't the problem simply that 33 vspec had an active diff, and all the other diffs are normal? Surely the issue relates to whatever wiring differences there are in making the diff "active". Or is the only difference at the diff the hydraulic lines?

+1 There are literally 30 things it could be....expensive to guess and change them one by one until you find it.

umm that pic is not a 33 gtst as per your profile.....looks the a r30 skyline or something? there are lots of things back there that can clunk.

sorry I totally missed something in the first post. Do you have a 32 GTS4 with 4.4 diffs and rb20? If you do, your current sump bolts straight onto an rb26. I'm not sure where rb25 fits in? Unless you have an rb25 r32 gts4 (if so, sorry I didn't realise they exist!)

your rb20 sump bolts directly to an rb26. infact other than the engine and diffs a gts4 is pretty much mechanically the same as a gtr.

I'll reserve my terror level until I hear some facts.....so far it is a 1 person armed hold up yet half the city is in lockdown. Those guys win every time we overreact like this

So, that was more like a 12 year history lesson than a build thread, but I intend that the thread will change a bit from here. I’m not worried about saying what actually happens, both the wins and mistakes that comes with doing pretty much everything at home. The plan from here is to do a pretty big overhaul on the car, and the target (although not essential), is the NSW Production Car round at Bathurst in April. Upcoming jobs: Replace the PowerFC with a Haltec including dash and flex fuel sensor Strip the interior and properly prepare it, eg removing tar Remove unneeded wiring (I’ve only ever added, not removed) Replace all bushes and balljoints, they are a bit shabby after 10 years racing and 15 years on the road New fuel pumps, hoses and FPR Rebuild calipers and booster, replace ABS

that's not really my experience. I never had a failure or one come off but I was not happy with the wear on the flange where they seat on the wheels or the fact that they didn't always hold at the torque they were set to. I've been a lot happier since I changed back to steel

The good news is that change is dead easy. Just use a second terminal on the same stud (or the other one, they are connected by a metal bar) for the new wiring. Cut the old wiring as close to the terminal as possible and wrap well with tape

there is a difference in the angle of the LCA mounts between 32 vs 33/34 but they are still interchangeable. some of the subframes have different mounting distance on the car, there are offset subframe bushes to deal with this issue; but I don't know which ones have which. some models have hicas, some have none (standard control arm with bushes instead) 2wd have different spacing to 4wd from the floor to the subframe but again they are interchangeable some have wider track than others, eg w34 is narrower than r33 but overall they are surprisingly similar. lots of other rwd nissans from the same era too like GF50 cima.

I don't know if transmax is the correct gearbox fluid for an R34, but I do know that it does not run gearbox oil in the gearbox so it may be ok. The xfer case takes 1.8 litres

I'm not falling for that

I've never run spacers....if I was going to I'd grab these ones from Just Jap http://justjap.com/sri-20mm-bolt-on-wheel-spacers-m12-x-p1-25-5-x-114-3.html

yeah that's as funny as I can do mid-week

hahaha so at least you know what I still have to post up, just in case you have any other good stories....

oh +12 or +15 is the accepted "hectic offset" so I guess you need 20mm bolt on spacers. You will probably need to shorten the studs at the same time