Duncan

soo...yeah, haven't got far on the car lately, I've been clearing/sorting/cleaning a bunch of spares I unpacked from the container so I have space to do the real jobs. And cleaning is totally uninteresting so it's not going too quick. I've pretty much finished all the spares today, including today on the sandblaster....does a damn good job compared to scrubbing became Its also funny how many of some things I have, some need to go up for sale, some to scrap.....like this manifold collection, 4 are warped, only 4 are good....

yep Neil's a lightweight.....easily replaced by a battery and a spanner or 2

Well I've got no direct experience with adjusting track either, except to say they aren't even stock, and I know lots of cars have a very wide variance from factory too....so I'd guess it isn't an issue As for the traction arm, adjustable ones are a disaster unless you get a proper wheel alignment at the same time. The only thing they really do is control/adjust bump steer, so if you put adjustable ones in and don't set the bump steer you've almost certainly made it worse. On the other hand, if you *know* you have a bump steer problem, they are the way to fix that. As usual I'd use bushes not rose joints so they last a bit longer.

Thanks for the clear comms about what happened Ciaran.

To be honest, if something occurred and conversations are to be shut down, it looks like the club execs are hiding something. While I've got no idea what happened, as a club member I'd appreciate communication of the basics. Did someone die? Did a car get written off doing helis on the grass? Did someone break a fingernail? All these things have happened before in the community. Stonewalling makes it look like something terrible needs to be hidden; ask the Catholic Church how that turns out.

well I did mean front, moving the LCA out works nicely and keeps everything lined up OK. In the rear I'm not allowed to change the mounting points so I haven't in the race car. We did a whole heap of work on another 32 years ago including 3 mounting points for the LCA to lower the car without stuffing the roll angles but that car never ran so I don't know if it helped. Certainly you would not need to move the rear LCA out to get more camber, there is already plenty available just with bushes.

yeah that's what we have to do in production cars; ie inner end of the LCA control arm can be moved to "achieve the required alignment"....which in my case was about 10mm out. its the best way to achieve camber at the front. I guess you are talking about S chassis (struts) but in double wishbone shortening the upper arm reduces the overall track while moving the LCA out increases it.

and, it had probably been too long since the last bleed....the better the brake fluid the more water it attracts, and the more often you should bleed it through...

both good vids....presenter in the second one seems a bit sus though

Threads merged. Please don't start a new thread to continue a discussion, particularly in the Builds section.

I disagree, they are not crap. I used multiple sets over many years of hard street/light track use. They don't necessarily squeal (of course no manufacturer would knowingly release a product that couldn't be used). They are nasty for dust though.... Squealing happens because of high frequency vibration. You need to make sure all the surfaces are super clean (use brake cleaner generously). Ensure the surface between the hub and disc is free from rust so the disc sits flat. Ensure the caliper mounting to the hub is clean and straight. Make sure you have the anti rattle shims and that they are very clean on both sides too. And like Ravi said, try bedding them in again. How did you do it the first time? Are the discs new, old but machined or just old?

jeebus. holler for a marshall!

that's the very last plug on the ecu loom.....so go back to the firewall near the ECU and you'll see where that loom comes through, follow it forward past ABS connectors, 02 sensors, AFM and then that plug will be next

I've had similar trouble before with PFC on a series 2 33 gtst and on a custom wired 32 gtst just on the weekend. There are wiring differences in ECU power between different models and I'm not convinced the various "plug in" ECUs handle it correctly. It will vary by car and loom, but on 32GTR for instance, ECU power is pins 49 and 59. Battery 12v goes to 58. When the ECU wants to turn itself on (or more importantly off) it earths pin 16 which turns on the ECCS relay which in turn gives 12v to 49 and 59. So I would start with checking if you have no power at pins 49 and 59 with the ECU plugged in and ignition on. In both the cars I mentioned above it the ECCS relay was either absent or not wired in, which meant 12v was not being supplied to those pins which the PFC relies on.

Yeah if they had a micra series here I'd be there with bells on. These is nothing like a big grid of same performance cars to make great racing. Only the panel repair bills become a problem because those with too much money don't care about the repair bills

Just watched the Grant Denyer ™ Targa show yesterday. Lots of coverage of the 8 finishers in RWD showroom, not so much everyone else. They should create a category called "Early Modern" and have 24 interesting cars in it so that they have a better show next year. Afterall, it would be the second largest of their "10 rallies within a rally" after Classic

Yep that's exactly the point....the stock stagea ECU is very conservative and does not like extra boost. FCD was a cheap and dirty fix, something like an SAFC would be a better idea for a car that is going to stay reasonably standard. Whole ECU replacement is a couple of grand no matter how you go about it.

umm no. basically, modifying cars aren't legal. pretty much everything changed on your car, my car and the car of everyone else on these forums have illegal mods. what you need is not attracting attention.....not too loud, careful where and when you go, and don't drive like a dickhead.

You'll find that the stock ECU starts to struggle long before the turbo itself is in danger (it will run to 14psi plus....probably....) The stagea ECU is very conservative and will quickly run very rich and reduce the timing; you will notice this as more boost not making it go faster....and lots of black smoke. So....if you want to run more than about 12psi you are going to have to do something electronic anyway (eg new computer or SAFC or fuel cut defender) Here's 2 graphs from my car in the old days.....red line is stock (top line is power, dotted line is boost). black line is after installing a fuel cut defender. This graph shows why the power goes down like crazy; the stock computer was dumping in heaps of fuel (running rich) to protect the engine from what it assumed was an issue....see dotted red line which is the air/fuel ratio on the stock computer.

if you are getting the wrong water from the wrong switch find the washer bottle under the bonnet. There will be two little motors with the plastic lines coming off them....just swap the 2 plastic lines around and that will be sorted. Even if it is electrical (unlikely) it doesn't matter. The one that doesn't work is almost certainly just because the squirter nozzles are blocked. If you can't clear it at the squirter nozzle go back to the washer bottle and start there....pull off the hose, get someone to hit the switch....you will either get water out (proving you have a blocked line somewhere) or nothing which says the washer motor is dead.

personally I don't think it is good value, 32 GTR has reasonable brakes standard for most use what do you use the car for and what are you trying to solve by upgrading?

Hollywood style!

lol you better hope Mel never finds out the internet exists....I refuse to replace all her roles for you. Even if you take me to dinner first.

oh...if the motor is out and you already have the front diff I'd change my vote....take Paul's advice and put that in as it is simple when the sump is out of the car

Don't fit either, sell them both. The rear diff is already a mechanical diff, and if you do want it tighter any diff shop can do it for a couple of hundred. Changing the front diff is a disaster of a job unless the engine is out, and an LSD is only going to help at the front if you are having excessive wheelspin from 1 front wheel under power. Spend the money from selling them on stuff you will notice like new shocks/springs or swaybars. Or beer and hookers.