Duncan

jeebus. holler for a marshall!

that's the very last plug on the ecu loom.....so go back to the firewall near the ECU and you'll see where that loom comes through, follow it forward past ABS connectors, 02 sensors, AFM and then that plug will be next

I've had similar trouble before with PFC on a series 2 33 gtst and on a custom wired 32 gtst just on the weekend. There are wiring differences in ECU power between different models and I'm not convinced the various "plug in" ECUs handle it correctly. It will vary by car and loom, but on 32GTR for instance, ECU power is pins 49 and 59. Battery 12v goes to 58. When the ECU wants to turn itself on (or more importantly off) it earths pin 16 which turns on the ECCS relay which in turn gives 12v to 49 and 59. So I would start with checking if you have no power at pins 49 and 59 with the ECU plugged in and ignition on. In both the cars I mentioned above it the ECCS relay was either absent or not wired in, which meant 12v was not being supplied to those pins which the PFC relies on.

Yeah if they had a micra series here I'd be there with bells on. These is nothing like a big grid of same performance cars to make great racing. Only the panel repair bills become a problem because those with too much money don't care about the repair bills

Just watched the Grant Denyer ™ Targa show yesterday. Lots of coverage of the 8 finishers in RWD showroom, not so much everyone else. They should create a category called "Early Modern" and have 24 interesting cars in it so that they have a better show next year. Afterall, it would be the second largest of their "10 rallies within a rally" after Classic

Yep that's exactly the point....the stock stagea ECU is very conservative and does not like extra boost. FCD was a cheap and dirty fix, something like an SAFC would be a better idea for a car that is going to stay reasonably standard. Whole ECU replacement is a couple of grand no matter how you go about it.

umm no. basically, modifying cars aren't legal. pretty much everything changed on your car, my car and the car of everyone else on these forums have illegal mods. what you need is not attracting attention.....not too loud, careful where and when you go, and don't drive like a dickhead.

You'll find that the stock ECU starts to struggle long before the turbo itself is in danger (it will run to 14psi plus....probably....) The stagea ECU is very conservative and will quickly run very rich and reduce the timing; you will notice this as more boost not making it go faster....and lots of black smoke. So....if you want to run more than about 12psi you are going to have to do something electronic anyway (eg new computer or SAFC or fuel cut defender) Here's 2 graphs from my car in the old days.....red line is stock (top line is power, dotted line is boost). black line is after installing a fuel cut defender. This graph shows why the power goes down like crazy; the stock computer was dumping in heaps of fuel (running rich) to protect the engine from what it assumed was an issue....see dotted red line which is the air/fuel ratio on the stock computer.

if you are getting the wrong water from the wrong switch find the washer bottle under the bonnet. There will be two little motors with the plastic lines coming off them....just swap the 2 plastic lines around and that will be sorted. Even if it is electrical (unlikely) it doesn't matter. The one that doesn't work is almost certainly just because the squirter nozzles are blocked. If you can't clear it at the squirter nozzle go back to the washer bottle and start there....pull off the hose, get someone to hit the switch....you will either get water out (proving you have a blocked line somewhere) or nothing which says the washer motor is dead.

personally I don't think it is good value, 32 GTR has reasonable brakes standard for most use what do you use the car for and what are you trying to solve by upgrading?

Hollywood style!

lol you better hope Mel never finds out the internet exists....I refuse to replace all her roles for you. Even if you take me to dinner first.

oh...if the motor is out and you already have the front diff I'd change my vote....take Paul's advice and put that in as it is simple when the sump is out of the car

Don't fit either, sell them both. The rear diff is already a mechanical diff, and if you do want it tighter any diff shop can do it for a couple of hundred. Changing the front diff is a disaster of a job unless the engine is out, and an LSD is only going to help at the front if you are having excessive wheelspin from 1 front wheel under power. Spend the money from selling them on stuff you will notice like new shocks/springs or swaybars. Or beer and hookers.

spotted a white m35 parked outside where I'm staying in Newcastle last night

Enough trolling thanks everyone. Clearly any given car has a specific temp where it works best. The stock gauge in a modern car will read about half when it is at the right temp for that car. Generally newer cars are designed to run much hotter than you might think.

Not sure why you wanted Teins, anyway I'd get a set of Bilsteins modified by Sydneykid.

8 weeks so far, but I'm looking for something specific this time. Generally I'd still expect 4-8 weeks to find a good car. And THEN the wait begins....if you are feeling impatient now wait until it has been at the compliers for 3 months waiting for a RAWS audit....

I found and fixed the melted vacuum hose that was giving me unlimited boost. I'm in 2 minds about the change....there was a certain fun to running ???kw@30psi instead of 260@18psi. It sure went wooooosh.

Hi all, I'm looking for a 32 GTR diff in usable condition.....let me know what you've got, and where it is! Thanks, Duncan

ha! I guess you could hold on! Well done with back to back wins in early modern!

Excellent morning....thanks Trish and Terry for hosting, and to the exec team for organising

Seems like a reasonable description, I guess they are taking the responsibility that the part is correct. If you want me to double check the part# send me your VIN# and I will check in FAST....I guess it will be the same Zeb posted above

just loose is pretty likely, it is one place you could pull the front suspension apart to remove and reinstall the engine (to clear the driveshaft) Don't worry about what it is called, as long as they are talking about the right joint you are fine. If you pointed out to them that it only allows movement in 1 direction they would agree it can't be called a ball joint... BTW these very rarely fail....they are hugely over engineered for their job.

Good luck tomorrow Liam....hope you can hold onto the spot!