Duncan

Anyway, there has been some progress since the last update, including today when I lured Neil over with the promise of a 1000klm race on TV, then made him work half the day. Picked up some finished bits: Front sump all finished; Coated in Thermal Dispersant coating and with the Quaife diff installed Rear diff reco-ed with new bearings/seals etc, it was otherwise OK. Interestingly Award told me I had been running synthetic diff oil which was clear due to glazing of the gears -they told me to use a mineral gear oil (Castrol Axle Limited Slip 85w140) instead so I'll give that a go Front subframe blasted and coated by Craved Wiper arms blasted and coated too. After 25 years they had lost a lot of paint resulting in nasty reflections off the stainless Front and Rear Calipers rebuilt by Specialised Brake and Clutch in Penrith, then coated in Thermal Dispersant Coating by Craved. No they don't look exciting but I'd rather they cool well New Clutch master and slave from Just Jap; the old master has been leaking unfortunately Blasted and Painted the Brake Master....looks crap in the pic but it actually came up well. It has also had a master cylinder leak in the past Pressed the bearings out of the front uprights and gave them a bit of a clean as well Since pretty much everything is out, and because I am looking to make the fuel system e85 ready in the future, I decided to drop the fuel tank and clean it out Rear end looks empty without a fuel tank and rear subframe I expected loads of crud inside the tank after 25 years, but instead there was almost nothing. Won't bother dropping plastic tank again! Should be up to putting things back rather than pulling them apart soon, would be nice to see the track again one day

Umm yeah sorry, kind of a slow response. Re the clutch, the current one is some sort of generic xceed 5 puck thing with a slightly lightened flywheel. I have to keep a clutch with the same number of plates (ie 1) as stock so am pretty limited. Having said that was much happier with my prior clutch, it was a custom single plate with billet flywheel and a full face (not puck) clutch. I used it happily for years but in the end it sometimes slipped with very big launches on sticky tyres. Once that had happened more than once I had to move to something with more clamping force because racing with a clutch welded to the flywheel is inconvenient Basically race clutches get very hot, especially with gtr launches (eg rallies, hillcimbs etc) and having a full face greatly reduces hot spots. Oh yeah, and the car launches beautifully, and I've never broken a tailshaft/driveshaft/gearbox/diff over 10 years of abuse

I have decided to move to a Haltec ECU and Dash, and so I no longer need my Ruzic setup. Package includes: Ruzic Engine Monitor Ruzic Data Logger Garmain GPS receiver The set cost over $1000 and worked well, selling in working order for $500....get data logging cheap!

Also have an R34 GTT / W34 Stagea S2 Oxygen sensor for sale, $90 delivered.....because it turns out it has a different plug to S1 Purchased from Kudos last week, brand new in box http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/genuine-nissan-pitwork-lambda-oxygen-sensor-nissan-skyline-r34-25gt-25gt4-25gtt-gtv-rb25de-rb25det-neo-p-187.html According to them it fits Nissan Skyline ER34 25GT (RB25DE Neo 6, 05/1998 - 08/2002) Nissan Skyline ENR34 25GT-4 (RB25DE Neo 6, 05/1998 - 06/2001) Nissan Skyline ER34 25GT-T (RB25DET Neo 6, 05/1998 - 08/2002) Nissan Skyline ER34 GT-V (RB25DE Neo 6, 01/1999 - 08/2002) Nissan Stagea WGNC34 25TX-FOUR, Series 2 (RB25DET Neo 6, 08/1998 - 03/2001) Nissan Stagea WGNC34 RS-Four S, Series 2 (RB25DET Neo 6, 08/1998 - 03/2001) Nissan Stagea WGNC34 RS-Four V, Series 2 (RB25DET Neo 6, 08/1998 - 03/2001) Nissan Stagea WGC34 RS-V (RB25DET Neo 6, 08/1998 - 03/2001)

well I've got a 32 in pieces in the garage, and both front and rear passenger side shafts are about 600 long, definitely neither is 570ish

+1 Chris at Craved Coatings is the man for this job, I've had him coat heaps of things for me and he has always been good and reasonably priced. And he'll be able to sort the stickers too.

frankly, I'd try somewhere else....

Yep 4 wheels for $2k although getting them to Adelaide would be painful and not cheap I guess. Tyres are Yokohama A048s but they are old and bald

You can't use recent auction sales or landed prices in AUD as any sort of guide, the exchange rate has dropped by 15% in the last 2 months. Simply put, even if you can find a 35,000 R34 you will have to pay more like 45,000 for it this now. At the moment, every car in the country came in under a much better exchange rate, so we are probably in one of those unusual times where you will get better value locally than importing.

46 ABS teeth on a 32 GTR/GTS4 diff

Yeah I've got a 32 gtr diff handy. Other than # teeth what do you need?

well...the offset is important, genuine rays have stickers inside the rim with the specs, and sometimes marked into the back of the hub mounting they will go for about 500ea

Sway bar is gone too. Everything else is still available

Excellent post with lots of detail, I'm sure it will be useful to lots of other people.

Oh I see, all is explained. CA18 was not Nissan's high point in engine design....imagine it in auto pushing a 1.5t car around.

I am the only person on the internet that doesn't know what an "FR32" is?

Yes, the rule will change. All things are impermanent

actually mine too....while annoying every time I haven't bothered pulling it apart yet

I've been using gates belts for years on road and my race car with no issues. but anyway, that noise is horrible but almost certainly something rotating at the front. If I understood right you are saying the cam gear (intake in particular) is rubbing on the backing plate, that definitely should not happen. Also as Ben said that belt is dangerously loose and must be fixed ASAP, it is at major risk of skipping one or more teeth which can ultimately stuff your valves.

I am a bit old fashioned, but I suspect you are trying to buy wheels in Sydney. I am selling some.

well congrats to RTDC on taking out the championship then, I take it the bonus points relate to their choice to keep the same cars round to round which seems fair to me Also I think SAU should be proud of coming home second, we had great involvement across a lot of club members, and I bet everyone enjoyed the events. And considering there are 10 clubs competing across 4 rounds I reckon it is a pretty serious competition so 2nd is great outcome. And finally, well done to Nulon for creating and sticking with this concept....everyone go out and buy their oils!!!

Awesome response from DBA, great to see

yeah look actually I guess it was OK, more just that I'm not so familiar with the tricks. I had trouble with the steering rack but could have done it differently/easier no doubt. Now it's out it was easy to remove the box, flywheel, clutch and change the rear main seal also had the grumpy old man around today, the extra pair of hands made it much quicker to get the rear subframe apart and off

It was too slow. And to be honest I'm not sure of the allure, 34GTT is cheap enough these days surely; the import cost is more than the auction cost.

Look basically what you are trying to do is not safe or roadworthy. 4 or 5 degrees of camber is way too much for a road car and will dramatically reduce your braking ability. Further, even if you can get the wheel to tuck into the guard, the actual ADRs say the whole wheel has to be within the guards, not just the top when compressed. So do be surprised that people aren't super supportive of your plan to wreck you car and endanger yourself and others. Having said that, a key thing both people who said they got close to having this size wheel said was that they used GTR guards which have significantly more space, you definitely need to do that. GTR guards also need new headlights, front bumper, and a few other bits. Next, you should run as little caster as possible (will also make your car handle worse) to keep the wheel from hitting the front of the guard at the tightest point. And yes, you could run really short upper arms which would help it tuck in, and you will need to remove the inner wheel arch guards. The next point of clearance if they are far enough in is likely to be the swaybar, so I guess you could remove that as well (worse handling again). And the last thing I can think of would be to run undersized/"stretched" tyres (also illegal) to reduce rubbing as the wheel turns on either the inner or outer guard. But I think you are crazy to wreck an awesome car